Perth to Albany Road Trip: An Epic 2-Week Self-Drive Itinerary for Spectacular South West Australia

Stunning beaches, ancient forests, delicious food and wine – explore spectacular South West Australia with our two week Perth to Albany road trip itinerary loop, starting and finishing in Perth.

We Aussies are spoiled for choice when it comes to road tripping the epic outdoors. For John and I though, one of the greatest regions for exploring has to be the wedge of country from Perth to Albany in South West Australia.

Here, you can experience some of Australia’s very best in nature. Pristine pearly-white beaches lapped by turquoise seas. Old growth forests guarded by some of the biggest trees in the world. Dramatic granite coastal cliffs and formations. Otherworldly dunes and desertscapes. The list of wonders goes on.

Aboriginal culture infuses this ancient place, while a more recent maritime, colonial and wartime history has also left an indelible mark. Add world class wineries, a stellar craft brewery scene and excellent foodie options, and you have what is, quite possibly, the ultimate Australian road trip. It’s a big call, yes, but definitely one worth deciding for yourself.  

Perth to Albany Road Trip Snapshot

Start & Finish: Perth, Western Australia

Distance: If you do everything in this itinerary, you’ll travel around 2,000km (appx 1,240 miles), give or take.

How long do I need? This road trip itinerary is 14 days. See below for our suggestions if you have less time or more time.

Overnight stops: 1 night in Perth, 1 night in Busselton, 3 nights in Margaret River, 1 night in Pemberton, 1 night in Denmark, 1 night in Albany, 3 nights in Fremantle, 1 night in Cervantes, 1 night back in Perth.

What’s in this post?

Planning a Perth to Albany Road Trip
2-Week Perth to Albany Road Trip Itinerary
Day 1 – Arrive in Perth 
Day 2 – Perth to Busselton 
Day 3 – Busselton to Margaret River via Cape Naturaliste 
Day 4 – Margaret River Wine Tasting 
Day 5 – Margaret River south to Cape Leeuwin
Day 6 – Margaret River to Pemberton
Day 7 – Pemberton to Denmark
Day 8 – Denmark to Albany
Day 9 – Albany to Fremantle
Day 10 – Rottnest Island
Day 11 – Fremantle
Day 12 – Fremantle to Pinnacles Desert (or choose your own adventure)
Day 13 – Pinnacles Desert to Perth
Day 14 – Depart Perth

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Planning a Perth to Albany Road Trip

What’s the Route?

Our two week south west Australian road trip planner starts and finishes in the city of Perth, capital of the vast state of Western Australia (WA).

We trace a coast-and-hinterland path down to the most south-westerly point on the Australian continent, spending a couple of days searching out some of the best places to visit in Margaret River and surrounds. Then we head east to Albany via Pemberton and Denmark, before looping back via an inland Albany – Perth route. We also visit Wadjemup/Rottnest Island and Pinnacles Desert, two awesome Perth day trips.

If you have less than two weeks, you can cover the Perth to Albany return segment of this itinerary in around ten days, leaving out The Pinnacles and Rottnest Island.

If you have more than two weeks, you might slow the pace and add more days to some of the stops along the way. You could also consider making this a Perth to Esperance road trip. We discuss travelling to Esperance in more detail further on.

The thing about planning a road trip in Australia is that distances can be as epic as the nature itself. Fun fact: the state of Western Australia is ten times the size of the United Kingdom! In other words, it’s vital to take a pragmatic approach to just how much you can see and do with the time you have.

Having said that, we’ll ‘fess up and note that even this 2 week Perth to Albany itinerary is ambitious given the distances and the sheer number of highlights involved.

Despite having our sensible planner hats on, we found it almost impossible to pick and choose what to include. So we went ahead and visited as much as we could. We’ve captured it all here, with the caveat that if you do as we did, you can expect to be on the go most of the time.

How you roll is entirely up to you. You can go hard like we did, or slow the pace and pick a couple of places from each day’s highlights that interest you most.  

For a round-up of the absolute must-sees in this corner of the country, check out our post ‘20 Unmissable Things To Do in South West WA‘.

When is the best time to visit?

South West WA is lovely pretty much all the time, with a temperate Mediterranean-like climate. Naturally, summers and holiday periods draw the crowds, especially in the Margaret River region. Accordingly, prices go up and accommodation availability goes down.

The shoulder periods between March and May (Aussie Autumn) and September to November (Aussie Spring) are said to be the nicest times of year. Though chilling out by a fire in winter with a nice Margaret River cabernet sauvignon has definite appeal for us too.

We travelled in March and experienced a mix of overcast and beautiful sunny days with temps in the low 20s C (low 70s F) punctuated by some brief, torrential storms. Keep an eye on the weather before you go, and take a warm top whenever you visit the coastal cliffs and lookouts along the south. Those Antarctic winds can bite.

Where should I stay?

Most of the overnighters on this road trip are in decent sized towns with a range of accommodation for all budget levels.

Your options for Perth, Fremantle and Margaret River accommodation are extensive. In Margaret River, having a car means you can stay further out of town if you want (there’s no Uber and taxis are few and far between).

Regardless, it’s a good idea to book your accommodation well ahead of your visit if you can, particularly if you’re travelling in peak season and over weekends. We found this was critical in the smaller towns of Pemberton, Denmark and Albany.

In Australia, you can search and book accommodation via all the usual booking engine suspects. For this trip we booked all our accommodation through Booking.com.

Do I need a 4WD?

Not for this Perth road trip. While a 4WD would certainly give you access to some of the more off-the-beaten-path destinations and adventures in South West WA, like the Yeagurup Dunes, this itinerary can be fully driven in a regular 2WD. With the exception of a couple of packed dirt roads, we travelled on paved roads throughout.

We found our car for this trip on Rental Cars, but would also suggest checking Discover Cars to find the best deal you can.

Do I need a National Park Pass?

Most national parks in Western Australia have a park entry fee of around $17 per vehicle. These fees go towards park management and conservation.

You can visit more than one park on the same day with one ticket. However, with this itinerary, we visit a number of national parks with fees over different days. One way to save money is to consider buying a Holiday Park Pass, which can be purchased online.

It’s $30 for a 5-Day pass and $50 for a 14-Day pass. This will give you unlimited park entry for the pass duration. You’ll need to print and display the pass in your car, so best to sort this out before you travel. 

2-Week Perth to Albany Road Trip Itinerary

Day 1 – Arrive in Perth

Total driving distance: There’s no driving today, unless you’re collecting a hire car and driving to your accommodation. If you want to save a days’ car hire, you could arrange pick up for early tomorrow instead.
Overnight: Perth

Perth is the capital of WA, and it’s the launchpad for our South West Australia road trip.

As a major city, you can fly direct to Perth from various cities around the world and from a bunch of places within Australia. Ironically, there’s not much time difference in a flight from Singapore to Perth and a flight from Sydney to Perth!

Can you drive to Perth from Sydney? Sure, but it’s a 4,000km (2,485 mile) journey and crosses desert, so you’ll need at least another week and plenty of preparation to do it. For us, that’s part of a whole other future Australian road trip on our Bucket List of 100 Ultimate Road Trips Around The World.

Depending what time you arrive in Perth today, you might consider hitting up some of the city’s highlights.

If you like getting out and about on foot, there’s a range of guided and self-guided walking tours that will introduce you to the city of Perth. 

For gorgeous views over the CBD, head to Kings Park and Botanic Garden. Or check out the outstanding collection of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander artworks at the Art Gallery of Western Australia.

If you’re craft beer apprecionados like us, you might go in search of the city’s tap rooms. Try a tasting paddle at Petition Beer Corner or a sundowner by the Swan River at The Island at Elizabeth Quay.

Don’t worry though if you arrive too late to do much Perth sightseeing today. You’ll be back here again at the end of the trip.

Where to Stay in Perth

As the capital of Western Australia Perth has a broad range of accommodation, ranging from hostels to high-end hotels, however staying in or near the city centre isn’t cheap. The following options get consistently good reviews:

• Good value: Spinner’s Backpackers – close to city | super friendly | kitchen for self-caterers
• Mid-range: Aurea Hotel – modern | pool | edge of CBD
• Indulge: Doubletree By Hilton – waterfront CBD location | city and river views | great breakfast

We stayed at Mercure Perth On Hay (formerly Travelodge) for it’s great central location, making it an easy walk to most city attractions and the bars and restaurants around Elizabeth Quay.

Day 2 – Perth to Busselton

Highlights: Bunbury dolphins | Busselton Jetty
Total driving distance: appx. 225km (140 miles)
Total driving time: appx. 2.5 hours
Overnight: Busselton

The goal today is to be in the pretty bayside town of Busselton by early afternoon, so you can max your time exploring the famous Busselton Jetty and surrounds.

You can either spend the morning exploring more of Perth city before driving straight to Busselton. Or get on the road earlier and make a pit stop en route in the quirky town of Bunbury.

Bunbury

It’s a 2-hour drive from Perth to Bunbury. We ultimately weren’t here long enough to make a qualified judgment about this bustling port city. But a quick online search of things to do throws up plenty of options to fill a day or more here.

Bunbury has grown up around a huge working port which, interestingly, hasn’t deterred the city’s most famous marine residents from hanging around. In fact, the wild bottlenose dolphins of Koombana Bay have become such a drawcard that the dedicated Dolphin Discovery Centre was created to ensure interactions with these magical creatures are safe and eco-friendly.

We stopped here to stretch our legs. Hoping to see dolphins, we parked up at the centre and wandered down to the beach. As luck would have it, there was a small pod of five or six dolphins chasing each other back and forth along the shoreline. Definitely worth the brief break in the journey south!

Busselton

It’s around 40-minutes from Bunbury to Busselton, or a straight 2.5-hour drive from Perth. Aim to arrive in Busselton by early afternoon.

The focus of our visit here is Busselton Jetty. At 1.8km (1.1 mile), it’s said to be the longest timber-piled jetty in the world.

We pre-booked tickets for a tour of the Underwater Observatory at the end of the jetty. The observatory takes you down into the shallow bay and showcases the beautiful coral reef habitat that has formed on and around the timber pilings.

To reach the observatory, it’s a lovely wander along the jetty out into Geographe Bay, and there are plaques along the way telling the jetty’s story. You can also take the little red train that runs on tracks the length of the pier. We did this on the way back. Busselton Jetty is open 24-hours while the observatory is generally open between 9am and 4pm.

With more time in Busselton, you could explore some of the other local sights, like the Old Courthouse Art Complex and Busselton Museum. We found there was plenty happening on and around the jetty itself to keep us busy for a couple of hours.

Back on land, we were drawn to the bright lights and glinting taps of Shelter Brewing Co, which overlooks the grassy foreshore and beach. There are lots of other options for dinner around here too. Once you’ve checked out the area and refueled, we recommend a good night’s sleep as tomorrow is a huge day.

Where to Stay in Busselton

For its small size, busy Busselton has a decent range of accommodation clustered around the famous jetty and beach. The following options get consistently good reviews:

• Good value: Ithaca 1896 Manor – 1km to jetty | free onsite parking | loads of character
• Mid-range: Gale Street Motel & Villas – walking distance to everything | comfortable and clean | free onsite parking
• Indulge: Hilton Garden Inn Busselton – central location | pool and sun terrace | free onsite parking

Day 3 – Busselton to Margaret River via Cape Naturaliste

Highlights: Dunsborough | Canal Rocks | Yallingup Beach | Ngilgi Cave | Meelup Beach | Eagle Bay | Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse | Sugarloaf Rock
Total driving distance: appx. 150km (93 miles)
Total driving time: appx. 2.5-3 hours (with lots of breaks)
Overnight: Margaret River

The Margaret River and Leeuwin-Naturaliste coast packs a huge punch in the nature stakes, and there are a ton of places to visit in Margaret River besides its world renowned wineries. Though wine tasting is most definitely on the agenda.

You have the option of staying in any of the lovely little towns that dot the Margaret River region for this part of our south west road trip, as you’ll be exploring this coastal area in sections over the coming three days. We chose to stay in the delightful town of Margaret River itself, which sits squarely in the middle of the region.  

As you’ll be coming from the north, today’s sightseeing is focused on the northern part of the region. Our route follows a loose trail around the Cape Naturaliste peninsula, however there is a bit of criss-crossing and back-tracking in order to be at Sugarloaf Rock at sunset.

Day 3 Planning Tips: There’s a lot packed into today’s itinerary, which means you’ll see plenty but you’ll have limited time in each place if you visit every spot. If you’d prefer to do less and spend more time in each place, then choose your preferred stops from the highlights below.

The time of year you visit will also make a difference to today’s itinerary, as the sun sets anywhere from around 5.15pm in mid-winter to 7.30pm in mid-summer.

Dunsborough

Break your fast in Busselton, or make the half-hour trip west to the resort town of Dunsborough for brekkie.

It was pretty quiet here on the weekday morning we visited, and the waters of Geographe Bay were mirror flat. In season though, this tidy little town apparently comes alive with beachgoers and water lovers, and we hear there’s a buzzing eating and drinking scene at night.

We picked up some fresh juices from a local café and wandered for a bit before settling on the beach for some people watching.

Canal Rocks

From Dunsborough, follow Caves Road to the south-west and then take the turnoff to Canal Rocks.

The artist Gaudi said there are no straight lines in nature, which makes this strikingly linear sea-sculpted channel a real eye-catcher, surrounded as it is by an otherwise rugged and wild coast.

A suck-your-gut-in-narrow wooden walkway takes you out into the heart of the rocky scene, to where the sea churns through gaps and you can feel the spray on your face.

We spent a bit of time here climbing around the rocks and taking in the views as the clouds rolled in and the crashing waves continued their ceaseless sculpting.

Yallingup Beach

Around 10 minutes north of Canal Rocks is famous Yallingup Beach, a stunning stretch of white sand and a great spot for swimming and snorkelling. It’s also world famous for its surf breaks.

If you fancy a dip, now’s the time. Or head to the small carpark north of town and wander up to Yallingup Beach Lookout for a great view over the scene and surf.

Ngilgi Cave

The limestone of the Leeuwin-Naturaliste ridge is pockmarked with spectacular, million-year-old caves and visiting at least one is a must. There are four showcase caves in the region and we include three in this itinerary (one today and two on Day 5), so you can pick and choose, or do them all.

The most northern of the caves is Ngilgi Cave, just five minutes from Yallingup Beach. It’s open from 9am to 5pm daily, with last entry at 4pm.

You can either visit this beautiful cave on its own or spend longer here and also enjoy the full Ancient Lands Experience – a walk through the bushland with installations that tell the story of how Ngilgi was created. Give yourself around an hour and a half for the whole visit.

Lunch at Eagle Bay Brewing Co

Make your way back across the peninsula via Caves Road and Cape Naturaliste Road to Eagle Bay Brewing Co.

There’s no shortage of places to pick up a bite to eat in the villages dotting the peninsula. We were keen to visit this beautifully-sited brewery overlooking an expansive panorama of fields and forest, and we highly recommend a lunch stop here.

We settled in to refuel with a paddle of local brews for John (the lucky passenger) and a cheese board to share. It’s open seven days a week from 11am to 5pm.

Meelup Beach

A short drive from the brewery is stunning Meelup Beach. This is a classic Western Australia beaches scene: a stretch of pearly white sand and aqua-hued water edged by smatterings of ochre rock.

Meelup is gorgeous during the day (moreso with the shifting clouds and light we had on our visit). But this spot is also renowned for its moonrises-over-ocean. If you’re travelling during a full moon, put Meelup Beach later on today’s itinerary and try to be here before the moon starts its ascent above the horizon.

Eagle Bay

Practically next door to Meelup but a world away is Eagle Bay, a spectacular little hideaway for the rich and famous.

We spotted some incredible homes through the trees here, and popped down to Eagle Bay Beach for a brief wander.

Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse

A bright white beacon on the headland, Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse rises above the dense coastal heath of Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park. It’s been lighting the way along this dangerous coast for 120 years.

While there’s no park fee for Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park, there is a small entry fee for the lighthouse grounds.

There’s a museum and tearooms here, and guided tours every hour from 9.30am to 4.30pm, including a climb up the 59 steps of the lighthouse to its balcony.

There’s also a network of walking trails around the cape, including the trailhead for the famous Cape to Cape Track, an epic 135km (84 mile) coastal hike. We opted for a slightly shorter, hour-long wander along the Lighthouse Track, a peaceful loop walk around the headland accompanied by speccy ocean views.

Sugarloaf Rock

Our penultimate stop today is Sugarloaf Rock, a dramatic lump of offshore granite famous for its changing hues. It’s renowned as a spectacular spot for sunset and today’s itinerary is worked so that you can be here for that (be sure to check sunset times when you visit).

Our own Sugarloaf Rock sunset experience was an angry sky with roiling clouds. If anything though, weather just adds to the drama of this beautiful coastline.

As a birder, I also brought my binoculars in the hopes of an end-of-season glimpse of the red-tailed tropic birds that nest on the rock over the summer months. No joy, but that’s birding.

From Sugarloaf Rock, make your way to your Margaret River accommodation. If you’re staying in Margaret River town as we did, you’ll find many of its bars and eateries clustered along the main street, Bussell Highway.

Where to Stay in Margaret River

Margaret River has a dizzying array of options when it comes to accommodation, however it’s a very popular town so you may need to redefine your idea of budget accommodation if that’s your price point. The following options get consistently good reviews:

• Good value: Higgins Lane Motel – very central | free parking | spacious rooms
• Mid-range: Margarets In Town Apartments – pool | very close to town | free parking
• Indulge: Grape Juice Retreat – peaceful | super private | closer to beaches

We stayed at Grape Juice Retreat, and while it’s a little outside town we loved the ambience of the place, while its location made for a great base to explore nearby beaches, caves and coastline.

We have also stayed at 107 Apartments Margaret River which is right in the middle of town on the main street. This makes it a very convenient and comfortable base to enjoy the bars and restaurants of Margaret River without having to organise taxis.

Day 4 – Margaret River Wine Tasting

Highlights: Margaret River wineries
Total driving distance: Let someone else do the driving today!
Overnight: Margaret River

Margaret River is one of Australia’s top wine regions, and world-renowned for its chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon. So it goes without saying, a trip here really isn’t a fait accompli without a visit to a winery or two. Or more if, like us, you sign up for a Margaret River wine tour.

Also, given the amount of driving on this south west Australia road trip itinerary, we figured it was only fair that we both get a day off from being designated driver and let someone else show us around!

If you’d rather self-tour though, your options are many. A number of wineries have cellar doors where you can pop in and sample the wares, or settle in for lunch surrounded by beautiful vineyards.

There are a handful of companies doing wine tours in Margaret River and they all follow a fairly similar format. We chose the company we did in part because they aim to visit some of the smaller wineries we might not have otherwise discovered on our own.

We visited a local olive oil company followed by three vineyards, before winding up the day at Margaret River’s famous just-out-of-town brewery, the Margaret River Brewhouse.

Day 5 – Margaret River south to Cape Leeuwin

Highlights: Mammoth Cave | Lake Cave | Karri Forests | Augusta | Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse | Hamelin Bay Beach
Total driving distance: appx. 125km (78 miles)
Total driving time: appx. 2 hours (with lots of stops)
Overnight: Margaret River

Today we hit the roads south of Margaret River to explore the natural and historic highlights along the coast to Cape Leeuwin, Australia’s most south-westerly point.

Travel Tip: When putting together this south west Australian road trip planner, we plotted to visit the sites below roughly in the order they appear on the map heading south from Margaret River along Caves Road.

With hindsight, and if you’re keen to see the stingrays of Hamelin Bay, we suggest making straight for Hamelin Bay Beach first thing in the morning. Then head to Cape Leeuwin and visit the other sites in reverse as you make your way back north to Margaret River.

Mammoth Cave and Lake Cave

There are two caves on today’s agenda. Both are absolutely worth visiting and are entirely different experiences.

The first stop is Mammoth Cave, where a self-guided audio tour takes you on a boardwalk journey through the stunning, stalactite-filled chambers of this ancient place. Mammoth Cave is renowned for the extraordinary fossils found here, including the 50,000-year-old jawbone of an extinct giant wombat-like species still embedded in the wall.

We’ve also included a visit to nearby Lake Cave. While the cavern itself is tiny compared to Mammoth Cave, Lake Cave requires an epic descent through a vast sinkhole into the bowels of the Earth. Which also means a thigh-burning ascent afterwards. The exquisite decorations and lake reflections make this cave worth the sore legs.

Both caves are open daily from 9am to 5pm, with last entry an hour before.

Karri Forests

The Karri forests of South West Australia are extraordinary. These are some of the tallest trees in the world and it’s truly something to be among the giants. You’ll be getting up close with some of the region’s most epic stands of forest around Pemberton later on in our Perth to Albany road trip, but today’s drive also travels through some impressive karri regrowth forest.

If time is on your side today, you can also opt to leave Caves Road for a bit and immerse more fully in the forest along the 14km (9 mile) Boranup Drive. This unpaved (but 2WD-suitable) route loops off Caves Road around 3km (1.8 miles) south of Lake Cave, and rejoins Caves Road just south of Boranup Forest Maze. Keep an eye out for Boranup Lookout en route.

Augusta

Heading further south to Cape Leeuwin, make a brief stop in Augusta, Australia’s most south-westerly town.

In season, this is apparently a bustling holiday spot and adventure hub for water sports like kite and windsurfing but it was very calm and quiet the day we visited. We picked up some lunch at a local bakery and found a grassy spot by pretty Hardy Inlet to enjoy the scenery. 

Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse

At the end of Leeuwin Road out of Augusta is Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse in Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park. This is the tallest lighthouse on mainland Australia. It’s an impressive sight in and of itself, and there’s a guided tour every half hour from 9am to 4.30pm daily if you’re keen to climb its narrow interior (book ahead).

It’s the location of this lighthouse though, on a dramatic rocky point at the confluence of the Indian and Southern Oceans, that is truly breathtaking. It’s also an excellent spot for whale watching between May and November each year.

There’s a café at the lighthouse precinct and an interpretive centre that tells the story of the lighthouse and its keepers. There’s no entry fee for the national park but there is an entry fee for the lighthouse precinct.

History nerds like us will also appreciate the historic water wheel just off the road on the approach to the lighthouse. Built back in the 1890s to pump fresh water to the lighthouse keepers’ cottages, the wheel has become encrusted in limestone over the years. It’s now part of the rock, reclaimed by nature and forevermore a feature of the history here.

Hamelin Bay Beach

A quintessential stretch of gorgeous white sand and sparkling aquamarine sea, Hamelin Bay Beach has become famous for the stingrays that cruise the shallows here, weaving between ankles and feet. The best time to see them is during summer on clear, calm mornings.

Hamelin Bay was our last stop when we drove this route. We turned up for sunset and the light was quite low so we didn’t get to mingle with the rays. We did, however, enjoy an incredible golden hour over the ambient jetty ruins, and the silhouette of a lone dolphin cruising the shoreline. It’s a beautiful spot to end the day.

As suggested earlier, if you’re keen to see the Hamelin Bay stingrays, make this your first or second stop today.

Day 6 – Margaret River to Pemberton

Highlights: Nannup | Beedelup Falls | Fire trees | Pemberton
Total driving distance: appx. 165km (100 miles)
Total driving time: appx. 2.5 hours (with lots of stops)
Overnight: Pemberton

It’s farewell to Margaret River today as we turn our attention inland and make for the historic town of Pemberton. 

Our south west road trip centres today on the southern section of the Karri Forest Explorer Drive, which showcases the region’s majestic karri forests and national parks on a looping mix of paved and unpaved road in and out of Pemberton. As we only have a night here, we’ve cherry picked some of the region’s best highlights as an introduction to the area.

Nannup

It’s worth breaking up this morning’s drive with a coffee stop and a wander in the charming village of Nannup. It’s around 45-50 minutes from Margaret River. This historic little town on the Blackwood River harks back to the early 1900s and was built on industries of timber milling and agriculture.

After a coffee under the vines at the Blackwood Café, have a short wander of the main street to check out its heritage buildings.

With a day or more here, you could explore Nannup and surrounds in more depth. This is said to be a wonderful place for wandering, with lots of trails to explore. There’s also a music festival here each March.

Beedelup Falls

Roughly 52km (32 miles) south-east of Nannup on the Vasse Highway, you’ll join the Karri Forest Explorer Drive. First stop on this tourist route is Beedelup Falls, in the Greater Beedelup National Park.

There’s a boardwalk system culminating in a cool suspension bridge at the base of the falls. The 100 metre high falls are apparently at their best in the wetter months of winter and spring. It was just a trickle when we visited in autumn, but the setting here is beautiful regardless.

The falls are just a couple hundred metres from the carpark. If you feel like stretching your legs on a further walk while you’re here, hit up the 4.5km (2.8 mile), moderately tough Beedelup Loop Walk.

Dave Evans Bicentennial Tree

Our next destination on the Karri Forest Explorer Drive is Warren National Park and the Dave Evans Bicentennial Tree. This is one of the region’s famed ‘fire trees’ – epic old-growth karri trees once used as above-the-forest-canopy fire lookouts.

165 long metal bars spiral up the 75-metre tall tree (246 feet), via a first viewing platform at 25 metres, to the top viewing platform another 35 metres up. And yes, unless it’s closed for maintenance or inspection, it can be climbed. Be warned though, there are no safety harnesses, clips or nets. Climbing is entirely at your own risk and signage at the base of the tree is explicit about this. 

I made it to the first platform before jelly legs and a racing heart put paid to climbing any higher. John, brave soul, made it all the way to the top. He insists the panoramic views and sense of achievement were worth it, even as his leg muscles went into meltdown and had him limping for days.

If risking your life climbing a big tree doesn’t take your fancy (sensible), we still recommend visiting Warren National Park for a wander on its trails instead. This is old growth karri forest at its best with great bird and wildlife spotting to be had.

The Gloucester Tree is a second fire tree just outside of Pemberton in Gloucester National Park that can also be climbed when it’s open. It offers a 53 metre high adrenaline rush.

Closed to climbing – At last check in early 2024, both the Dave Evans Bicentennial Tree and the Gloucester Tree are undergoing maintenance and are closed to climbing until further notice. The trees can still be visited, just not climbed. Check WA Park Alerts for updates before you go.

Pemberton Wineries

After our hair-raising experience climbing a fire tree, we needed some time to reflect.

Pemberton may not be as established a wine region as its world-famous neighbour, Margaret River, but it’s working on it. There are fifty-odd Pemberton wineries, and while there are far fewer cellar doors, it’s worth taking time out to visit at least one to sample the cooler climate wares.

We chose Hidden River Estate just north of Pemberton and around 15 minutes from the Dave Evans Bicentennial Tree. There, we settled on the outdoor patio with some tasty sharing plates and a glass of their lovely pinot noir overlooking the beautiful rolling hills. Hidden River is open from 11am to 4pm Wednesday to Sunday.

Wrap up the day in Pemberton

By this stage, you might be inclined to make for Pemberton, check into your accommodation and chill out for what’s left of the day. We’d understand!

Pemberton itself is pretty low-key but there are a few things to do locally if you still have the energy. If you fancy a swim, historic Pemberton Pool offers a refreshing dip surrounded by beautiful karri trees. If you want to raise a sweat and you’ve brought a mountain bike, you could get on the trails at Pemberton Mountain Bike Park.

Alternatively, for something more relaxing, you might like to try your luck fishing at the Old Vasse Trout and Marron Farm. Or you could sample some more of the local vino at some other Pemberton cellar doors (check in advance though as days and hours vary).

Of course, if you’re like us, there’s always another sunset to chase.

Sunset at The Window

After checking into our hotel in Pemberton, we got straight back in the car and made for Point D’Entrecastenaux in D’Entrecastenaux National Park for sunset.

Big caveat here – this is no small commitment. It’s 60km (37 miles) and around 50 minutes, each way. Time of day, time of year and effort are all big considerations. For us though, the temptation of a sunset over dramatic coastline was too much to resist.

If you’re up for it, head south from Pemberton on State Route 10, then take Windy Harbour Road further south until you reach D’Entrecasteneaux Drive. Then turn right and follow it to the end, where there’s a small carpark. From here, the Coastal Survivors Walk and the Pupalong Loop Walk wind away, serving up spectacular cliff-edge panoramas and views over the Southern Ocean.

A highlight on this rugged headland is ‘The Window’, a remarkable wind-and-sea eroded picture frame in the limestone cliff with views to the sea far below.

Where to Stay in Pemberton

Pemberton is a small, quiet town surrounded by some really stunning nature. There are a handful of accommodation options here, but you may need to travel further afield for budget rooms. The following get consistently good reviews:

• Mid-range: Karri Forest Motel – short walk to town | pool | free parking
• Indulge: Jaspers Cabins – modern | on-site restaurant | central location

We stayed at Karri Forest Motel and found the affordable, simple rooms to be comfortable for a quick overnight stay, while being close to somewhere for dinner (the local pub).

Day 7 – Pemberton to Denmark

Highlights: Walpole and Nornalup Inlets Marine Park | Giant Tingle Tree | Valley of the Giants | Denmark
Total driving distance: appx. 230km (140 miles)
Total driving time: appx. 3 hours (with lots of stops)
Overnight: Denmark

Tree giants, boulder herds, and an eco-tour like no other are today’s highlights on our Perth to Albany road trip itinerary, as we journey from Pemberton to the chill little artisan town of Denmark.

Wilderness Eco-cruising, Walpole

When we were researching our South West WA road trip, a certain eco-tour out of Walpole kept turning up on our radar.

The WOW Wilderness EcoCruise takes otherwise unsuspecting passengers – like us – and thrusts them into the compelling orbit of one-of-a-kind guide Gary Muir. Gary’s family history in this area goes back generations, and his passion for the nature and wildlife of the delicate Walpole and Nornalup Inlets Marine Park is absolutely contagious.

This 2.5 hour daily slow boat tour out of Walpole is easily one of the most memorable and educational tours we’ve been on, largely thanks to Gary’s charisma and encyclopaedic knowledge.

The gorgeous scenery of aquamarine waterways, sightings of eagles, rays and dolphins, and the hike to a pristine, secluded beach were practically a bonus. Tours can be booked through the Walpole Visitor Centre. Highly recommended.

Giant Tingle Tree, Walpole

A short drive west of Walpole, around 4.3km (2.7 miles) along Hilltop Road (off the South Coast Highway), is the Giant Tingle Tree in Walpole-Nornalup National Park. We were initially tempted to skip it as we’d heard it’s a bit touristy. We’re glad we didn’t though – this tree is special.

Red tingle trees are the elders of the forest. They’re practically exclusive to this corner of the world, live for hundreds of years, can survive the ravages of fire and fungus, and reach heights of 50 metres (164 feet) and more. But they are extra impressive in their girth. Some trees have been recorded with a circumference of 22+ metres (72+ feet) at the base. That’s a bus and a half wide!

The Giant Tingle Tree is the grand dame and showpiece of a lovely, 800 metre (1/2 mile) loop walk through karri and red tingle forest. Her heartwood has been completely hollowed out by fire over the decades, but this extraordinary, 400-year-old queen of trees is still very much alive.

The walking trail to the Giant Tingle Tree is free and open 24 hours. There’s no park entry fee for Walpole-Nornalup National Park.

Travel Tip: If you’re coming from Walpole, keep your eyes peeled for the lookout on the right as you travel along Hilltop Road. It’s an impressive forest-framed view to the Southern Ocean.

Valley of the Giants Treetop Walk

From one remarkable tree to a forest of them. The Giant Tingle Tree is an introduction to the world of the South West Australia hardwoods – huge, ancient trees with a talent for survival in the harshest of conditions.

The next stop on today’s itinerary, Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk, gives you a chance to get up close with these amazing trees in their upper reaches. The cantilevered walkway here takes you from ground level up to 40 metres and into the canopy of the Walpole-Nornalup National Park tingle forest.

Back at the forest floor, a separate boardwalk meanders through a fantastical, Game of Thrones-esque grove of tingle trees called The Ancient Empire. We loved this just about as much as the canopy walk. Ancient ents like the ‘Grandma Tingle’ keep vigil as birds zip about and native critters ferret through the undergrowth.

The Valley of the Giants is open daily from 9am to 5pm. There’s isn’t a park entry fee but there is a fee for the Treetop Walk.  

Denmark

From the Valley of the Giants, it’s around 50km (31 miles) to our next overnight destination, the cute little town of Denmark.

We have just one night here on this trip but there’s plenty to keep you lingering. Like Pemberton, Denmark is home to an excellent cool climate wine scene and there are also some great drives around here, like the Scotsdale Tourist Drive. We’ll definitely be back. 

Depending how you’re feeling at this stage in the day, you could settle into your accommodation before dinner, or take a wander around Denmark.

Or do we as did, and chase the sunset again, this time at Denmark’s famous Elephant Cove and Greens Pool. For us, resistance is futile.

Sunset at Elephant Cove & Greens Pool

You’ll be returning here tomorrow morning to properly explore this area. This afternoon’s visit is purely about the sunset.

Beautiful Elephant Cove and Greens Pool are in William Bay National Park, which has free entry. From the carpark at the top of the hill, you have the option to head left to Elephant Cove or right to Greens Pool. We made our way to the left first, to catch a last glimpse of the cove’s famous herd of huddling granite elephants under the changing light. They’re not so obvious at first, but once you see them, they really can’t be unseen.

Across the rocky foreshore to the right is stunning Greens Pool. The coastline is patterned with wind-and-sea-smoothed granite boulders and platforms, edged by sparkling white sands and pools of crystal clear water.

The coast here faces south, so the sun sets over the land to the right. On the afternoon we visited, an angry storm front was gathering over the sea and it amplified the last light of the day, delivering a stellar sunset. Then it chased us off the rocks and all the way back to Denmark as a solid wall of rain. 

Where to Stay in Denmark

Slightly larger than Pemberton, Denmark has more infrastructure and a few more accommodation options, but again due to its size, budget accommodation is hard to come by. If you don’t mind being a bit further out, you may find a better deal. The following options get consistently good reviews:

• Mid-range: 31 On The Terrace – central location | friendly | free parking
• Indulge: Aiyana Retreat – stylish | natural forest setting | spa treatments

We stayed at 31 On The Terrace and really liked the welcome we received, along with its great central location and cosy, if somewhat quirky, rooms.

Day 8: Denmark to Albany

Highlights: Elephant Cove & Greens Pool | National Anzac Centre | Torndirrup National Park
Total driving distance: appx. 145km (90 miles)
Total driving time: appx. 2¼ hours (with lots of stops)
Overnight: Albany

This is another day with a lot on the agenda. If you’d rather slow the pace, aim to visit the main highlights of Elephant Cove and Greens Pool in the morning, followed by the National Anzac Centre and The Gap and Natural Bridge in Torndirrup National Park in the afternoon. 

Morning (back) at Elephant Cove & Greens Pool

A day or two on the sand and in the sea in the spectacular surrounds of Elephant Cove and Greens Pool would be reason alone for a trip to Denmark. This is without doubt one of the most beautiful places on our Perth to Albany road trip (and the competition is fierce).

Head (back) here in the early morning to relax for a little while in this little nirvana. I was happy to park myself atop a high rock overlooking the dazzling water and boulders of Elephant Cove below, while John climbed down into the inlet to explore further. If you have time, you might opt for a swim here or over at Greens Pool.

Denmark Wineries

Denmark is yet another region fast gaining a place on the map for its cool climate wines. There are a number of cellar doors that you can visit in the area.

While today’s itinerary doesn’t leave much time for wine tasting, where there’s a will there’s a way. We managed to squeeze in a brief tasting at Forest Hill Wines before leaving Denmark. This sweeping vineyard, just off the South Coast Highway, has a friendly cellar door and is open daily from 10.30am to 5pm.

National Anzac Centre, Albany

Before you depart Denmark, grab some lunch-to-go and then set the GPS for the National Anzac Centre in Albany. While war museums aren’t everyone’s cup of tea, we reckon this award-winning centre, high above King George Sound, is a must-visit.

Albany is where Australia and New Zealand mustered their first contingent of troops for the convoy to the Great War in Europe in 1914. For the many, many Aussies who never made it back, this is where they last stood on home soil.

On arrival, you’re randomly assigned a real service woman or man from the past and as you move through the museum, you follow their actual experience of WWI. It’s an immersive, moving and eye-opening journey through this tragic chapter of history.

There’s quite a lot to explore at the centre and if you’re into this kind of heritage, you could definitely dedicate a couple of hours to the visit. We were there for around an hour.

Travel Tip: Don’t miss the fantastic panoramic views from the Convoy Lookout at the top of Forts Road.

Albany Wind Farm

The Albany Wind Farm wasn’t originally on our itinerary. But we spotted a sign en route to Torndirrup National Park and made a spontaneous decision to head down that road instead.

While we’ve seen plenty of wind farms from a distance on our travels, this was the first time we’d had the chance to get right up in the shadow of these vast turbines and it’s pretty cool.

There’s a path through the scrubby coastal heath overlooking the wind farm that takes you so close to a turbine you can practically feel the slow whump of the enormous rotor blades as they turn.

Torndirrup National Park

Buffering Albany from the wild Southern Ocean is Torndirrup National Park, and there are a number of sites worth seeing here. There’s an entry fee for this park.

As with just about every stop on this south west Australian road trip, you could spend days exploring this park alone. Torndirrup has a ton of trails, lookouts and some exquisite beaches. With just a couple of hours to play with though, make for the park’s most famous spots: The Gap and Natural Bridge, and The Blowholes.

As you head along The Gap Road, keep an eye out for signs for Cable Beach on the left. This isn’t the world famous, camel-trekking Cable Beach of Broome (a mere 2,400km/1,490 miles away in the north west of Australia), but it’s pretty speccy in its own right. There wasn’t a soul on the sand when we stopped at the lookout. It’s a serious hike down to the beach itself so sadly not an adventure for this trip. Next time! 

The Gap and Natural Bridge

The Gap and Natural Bridge are at the end of The Gap Road in the park. At The Gap, a cantilevered platform hovers out over a narrow fissure in the sheer cliffs, serving up a thrilling view of the crashing sea 40 metres (130 feet) below.

Just nearby, the Natural Bridge is exactly that – a hulking granite span carved from the living rock over millions of years. It’s impressive in its own right but the real head spin comes with a read of the signage onsite. It turns out these rocks are the remnant foundations of a once vast mountain range where Australia joined Antarctica!

The Blowholes

As the other must-see on our Torndirrup list, we made a beeline for The Blowholes as the sun was getting low. With hindsight though, unless you’ve got more days in Albany, this is probably a spot worth leaving for when you have more time.

We were expecting a coastal cave with random whooshes of air followed by drenching explosions of sea water. Torndirrup’s Blowholes are a bit more, well, subtle. More like long, narrow cracks in the rock. They were so understated on the day we visited that we almost missed them.

It’s a nice 1.6km (1 mile) return walk from the carpark to The Blowholes down a pathway to the rocky cliffs, where huge boulders cluster in frozen tumbles to the sea. When you see a white pole with an orange life-ring, turn towards the sea and make your way carefully down the slope until you see the sign for the blowholes. If they’re active, you’ll probably hear them before you see them.

Where to Stay in Albany

As the largest town and main hub for visiting the region, Albany has a great choice of accommodation to suit most preferences. The following options get consistently good reviews:

• Good value: Six Degrees Boutique Hotel – central location | restaurant and bar | shared bathrooms
• Mid-range: Spencer Suites – close to centre | well-presented | free parking
• Indulge: Hilton Garden Inn – modern | central harbourside location | free parking

We stayed at Clarence on Melville which was clean and basic, and a decent budget option if you have a car and don’t mind being a little further away from the centre of town.

Day 9: Albany to Fremantle

Highlights: Granite Skywalk | Kojonup | Fremantle
Total driving distance: appx. 440km (274 miles)
Total driving time: appx. 5 hours
Overnight: Fremantle

Today we’re closing the loop on our south west WA road trip and making our way from Albany to Perth via the Albany Highway/State Route 30. You could also do this road trip in reverse by travelling direct to Albany from Perth via this route at the start.

Granite Skywalk, Porongurup

From Albany, take the Chester Pass Road and Porongurup Road to Castle Rock in Porongurup National Park, around 30-40 minutes’ drive. The Granite Skywalk trailhead is at the Castle Rock picnic area. There’s an entry fee for this national park.

It’s a steady, 2km (1.24 mile) climb to the Skywalk along a bush track through beautiful native forest. We found it a solid cardio workout. You’ll know you’ve reached the lower lookout when you arrive at the extraordinary Balancing Rock, a huge boulder eroded over millennia perched precariously on a granite base.

Reaching the upper lookout requires another workout. You have to climb up and over a natural window in the outcrop, then shimmy along a narrow crevasse using metal handles hammered into the granite. Next is a tight climb up a six metre, enclosed metal ladder to the Skywalk, a narrow suspended platform crowning the peak of Castle Rock. The view is every bit the reward. We spent around two hours making this trek.

Kojonup

From Castle Rock, make your way back to the Albany Highway/State Route 30 and plot a route to Kojonup. It’s about an hour and a half and we’ll make a stop here to stretch legs and use the amenities.

There’s a visitor centre in Kojonup with a café and museum, and a special maze made of hardy, Aussie-bred roses that tells the story of early 20th century life in this dusty outback town through the eyes of several local women. There are also public toilets and a play area across the road.

We highly recommend swinging by Kojonup Bakery while you’re here to sample one of the locally made pies the town has become famous for. As all Aussies know, it’s not a true Australian road trip until you’ve had a pie or a sausage roll in a country town.

Fremantle

It’s a straight 3-hour cruise from Kojonup to Fremantle along State Route 30, so settle in for the drive past farms and bushland.

You’ll likely arrive in Fremantle in the late afternoon. We opted to stay a short walk from Fremantle’s historic and port area and after checking in, we made for the town’s most popular gathering joint, Little Creatures Brewery, for a sunset beer followed by dinner and an early night.

Tomorrow is yet another big day, but we’ll be taking a break from the car and catching an early morning ferry to Wadjemup/Rottnest Island.

Where to Stay in Fremantle

Fremantle is a fabulous place to stay and its laid-back beach vibe, and historic feel make it a great alternative to staying in Perth. There are stacks of accommodation options here so choosing somewhere can be a bit of a challenge. The following options get consistently good reviews:

• Good value: YHA Fremantle Prison – historic building | central location | no free parking
• Mid-range: Dawson Accommodation – friendly | modern | central location | paid parking
• Indulge: Warders Hotel Fremantle Markets – super stylish | great location | on-site restaurant | paid parking nearby

Day 10: Rottnest Island

Highlights: Beaches | West End | Seals at Cathedral Rocks | Wadjemup Lighthouse | Pink salt lakes | Quokkas Total driving distance: No driving today, just ferries and pedal power
Overnight: Fremantle

Gorgeous Rottnest Island – Wadjemup in the Aboriginal Noongar language – rises from a cyan-coloured sea just 25 minutes by ferry from Fremantle.

One day is definitely not enough to do much more than scratch the island’s sandy surface. There are more than 60 beautiful beaches (possibly some of the best beaches in Western Australia), as well as snorkelling and diving sites, cycling and walking trails, WWII relics, historic lighthouses and heritage sites. Not to mention the island’s famous resident rodent, the charming quokka.

We’d post a pic of the quintessential ‘quokka selfie’ that just about every visitor to Rottnest posts. Except we found it virtually impossible to take a quokka selfie. #instafail

Getting to Rottnest Island

There are three ferry operators making the daily journey between Fremantle and Wadjemup. Aim to pre-book the first ferry out from B Shed (Victoria Quay) or Northport (Rous Head) in Fremantle, and the last one back, so you can max your time on the island.

Getting around Rottnest Island

Cars are not permitted on Wadjemup but there are lots of different ways to get around. You can join a guided bus or boat tour, hop on a heritage train, or take to the skies in a plane or helicopter. There’s also the Island Explorer hop-on hop-off shuttle bus.   

Another option is to cycle around the island, which is what we did. Bikes can be booked with your ferry ticket. They travel over with the ferry and you collect them when you disembark at the island. 

There was plenty about cycling Rottnest that we loved, but we tried to cover too much ground (surprise!) and it’s a pretty hilly ride. By mid-afternoon, sweaty and sunburnt, we were definitely having second thoughts. Next time, we’ll hire electric bikes on the island, or take the bus. 

Top Spots for One Day on Rottnest Island

It’s a challenge to choose what to focus on with just one day on Rottnest Island. Our cycle loop took in a number of the island’s natural and heritage highlights. We stopped for a swim at Little Salmon Bay, took in the views over Parker Point, explored Wadjemup Lighthouse, and rode around the island’s pink salt lakes.

We made it right out to the island’s far point of West End for a stroll on the Cape Vlamingh Boardwalk and to watch the frolicking New Zealand fur seals at Cathedral Rocks. This is a good 10-13km ride one-way, so if you don’t want to cycle quite so far, consider the bus or focus your pedal power on the eastern and central parts of the island.

We also stopped on the way back for a quick dip at Little Parakeet Bay and a much-needed beverage at Pinky Beach. We rolled back into ‘the Settlement’ with just enough time for some quokka selfie attempts and the return ferry.

We were totally exhausted by the time we got back to the mainland, but we managed to shower and head straight back out in search of a meal in the buzzy area around Fremantle Esplanade.

There’s always lots happening in this vibey little town. In addition to all the usual things to do in Fremantle, be sure to check out what’s on while you’re there.   

Day 11: Fremantle

Highlights: Fremantle Markets | World Heritage Fremantle Prison | WA Shipwrecks Museum
Total driving distance: Driving is optional today but if you do drive, the trips are short
Overnight: Fremantle

Lovely Fremantle, or Freo as it’s affectionately known, also really deserves more than a day. While it’s effectively an outer suburb of Perth, it feels a world away from the big city. This is our kind of town – a vibrant waterfront precinct, a hub of historic sites to wander around, some excellent eateries and great drinking establishments.

We’ve previously written about the free bus service that used to do a loop of Freo’s key sites. Sadly, this is no longer running, although there is a 532 bus that travels through the CBD every 15 minutes during the day (you can buy a ticket onboard).  

Fortunately, Freo‘s historic centre and the main highlights below are all very walkable so unless you’re staying further out, you can leave the car today. There are also various guided and self-guided Fremantle walking tours.

Some of Fremantle’s highlights are:

Fremantle Markets

The markets are on Friday, Saturday and Sunday and have been running since 1897, so they’re a slick affair of yummy food and produce, local crafts, clothes and entertainment. If you’re here on a weekend, start your day here with something tasty and some souvenir shopping.

Fremantle Prison

The World Heritage Fremantle Prison dates back to the mid 19^th century and has all the grim feels of a place that soaked up 140-odd years of angst, rage and sadness in its limestone walls.  

There are a range of exhibitions and tours at the prison, including a creepy torchlight night tour, and a tour into the bowels of the prison to explore the tunnels hacked out of the rock by convicts. It’s open daily from 9am to 5pm.

WA Shipwrecks Museum

This was our favourite Fremantle attraction. The perilous WA coastline has claimed more than its fair share of vessels over the centuries, and the fascinating relics of some of the oldest wrecks have found their way here, in an epic combo of two of our great loves: history and underwater archaeology.

The standout of the museum is a huge, resurrected section of the shipwrecked Batavia, a Dutch East Indies ship that hit a reef and sank off the WA coast in 1629.

The story of mutiny, murder and island castaway horror is the stuff of fiction but it’s all too real. Seeing the artefacts of the fateful voyage set out around a massive section of raised and carefully restored stern, brings it all back to gruesome reality. The museum is open daily from 9.30am to 5pm.

The wild story of the Batavia shipwreck: If you want to learn more about the Batavia, two great reads are ‘Batavia’ by Aussie journalist, Peter FitzSimons, and a fictional account written through the arch villain’s eyes called ‘The Company’, by Arabella Edge. Incidentally, Russell Crowe bought the rights to a 1966 novel about the shipwreck – we’re hanging out for that film to be made!

Cappuccino Strip

There are heaps of places to eat and drink around Freo’s compact heart, mainly clustered along a stretch of South Terrace known as Cappuccino Strip.

Unsurprisingly, there are lots of cafés here but the name also reflects Freo’s Italian heritage, which is still very much alive. Pause for a proper espresso at Gino’s, an Italian staple on the strip for the past 40 years.

You’ll also find a couple of lovely wine bars in this area. We really liked Whisper on Essex Street, a cozy little wine bar in an historic mill converted into a charming French townhouse.

Day 12: Fremantle to Pinnacles Desert (OR Choose Your Own Adventure)

Highlights: Pinnacles Desert
Total driving distance: appx. 255km (160 miles)
Total driving time: appx. 3 hours
Overnight: Cervantes

Dramatic nature is a key theme of this journey. In keeping with that, for the second last day of our south west road trip, we head around 2.5 hours north of Perth for a visit to one of the state’s most famous natural attractions, the Pinnacles Desert in Nambung National Park.

Here, within view of the sparkling Indian Ocean, thousands of ancient limestone needles sweep across the rise and fall of a sandy desert. Thought to have been formed by seashell deposits, the pinnacles are more than 25,000 years old.

After breakfasting in Freo, make for the tiny town of Cervantes, gateway to the Pinnacles Desert. Keep a look out for shifting white ‘wedding cake’ dunes and wild emus on the way.

Cervantes is named for an American whaling ship that wrecked offshore in 1844. If you arrive in time for lunch, don’t miss the chance to have a feed at the town’s famous Lobster Shack.

The best time to visit the Pinnacles is sunset and sunrise, when the low light casts the pinnacles in beautiful golden hues and long shadows. It’s also worth heading early or later in the day to avoid the heat and the clouds of flies that descend the moment you exit the car (repellent and a head net are handy).

Make your way into Nambung National Park around mid-afternoon and visit the Pinnacles Desert Discovery Centre first for excellent insights into the geology, nature and culture of this extraordinary place. The centre is open daily from 9.30am to 4.30pm. You can visit the Pinnacles Desert anytime but there is a national park entry fee.

After the centre, head out into the park for a drive around the 4km unsealed loop road, stopping wherever you like. Give yourself around two hours for this. We found it a great way to get a feel for the park and scout out our favourite spots to come back to for sunset and sunrise.

Where to Stay in Cervantes

Cervantes is the nearest town to the Pinnacles Desert just 15 minutes’ drive away. It’s a small town with a holiday park and a handful of other accommodation.

We stayed at comfy Pinnacles Edge Resort, which has nice rooms and decent facilities, including a pool, ample parking, and an on-site restaurant.

Today’s Itinerary Alternative: Choose Your Own Adventure

If the drive north or desert flies don’t appeal, then we suggest taking this day and adding it to any other part of our Perth to Albany road trip where you’d like to spend more time.

We would have loved extra hours at just about every place we stopped, but here are some of our suggestions for what you might do instead of the Pinnacles Desert:

• Spend an extra day in Margaret River and enjoy more time exploring the spectacular nature and/or wineries in this region.
• Give an extra day to Denmark and spend more time swimming/chilling at gorgeous Elephant Cove and Greens Pool, plus a morning or afternoon sampling the food options, wineries and nature trails of the Scotsdale Tourist Drive.
• Day trip from Albany to Bremer Bay – if you’re travelling between January and April, before looping back from Albany to Perth, you might consider making the 2-hour drive west of Albany to Bremer Bay for an orca watching tour. Orca (along with various other marine and bird species) congregate in large numbers here over this period to hunt squid.

What about Esperance?

Esperance is home to some of the best beaches in Western Australia, if not all of Australia. Pics of its crystal clear water and shimmery-white shores dotted with kangaroos make it tough to rule out of any south western Australia road trip itinerary.

However, while our original goal was in fact a Perth to Esperance road trip, in the end practicality won out. Which is surprising really, as it usually doesn’t when we’re planning these things.

The reality is, Esperance is a further five hours along the coast from Albany. The distances on this trip are already big and the days packed, and we felt there was a risk of it turning into the Amazing Race if we added a further 10-hour round-trip for a couple of hours on the sand. Even if it is some of the nicest looking sand we’ve seen.

If Esperance is a non-negotiable though, swap out some of the other days and activities in this 2 week itinerary or add a couple more days to your trip.

Day 13 – Pinnacles Desert to Perth

Highlights: Sunrise at Pinnacles Desert | Perth sightseeing
Total driving distance: appx. 200 km (124 miles)
Total driving time: appx. 2¼ hours
Overnight: Perth

Sunrise at The Pinnacles

After overnighting in Cervantes, we recommend heading back to the Pinnacles Desert for sunrise to watch as this magical place erupts from an otherworldly expanse of shadowy sentinels into the light of day.

Early morning is also perfect for exploring a bit more of the park on foot. The Desert View Trail is an easy, 1.5km (0.9 mile) return walk.

After brunch, get on the road and head back to Perth. If you want to break up the journey, there are a couple of places to stop en route, such as lookout over sweeping Lancelin Sand Dunes and Two Rocks beach.

Afternoon & Evening in Perth

Back in Perth, the city’s highlights await, so if you missed Kings Park and Botanic Garden, the Art Gallery of Western Australia, the Perth Mint or a walking tour at the start of the trip, now’s the time.

You could also make the 15-minute drive drive to Perth’s famous Cottesloe Beach for fish and chips.

We found ourselves back by the Swan River at Elizabeth Quay for our last night (what can we say, we’re suckers for a trifecta of craft beer and city lights by water). But Perth is a smorgasbord of international dining and drinking options – here are some ideas on where to spend your final evening.

Day 14 – Depart Perth

Last day! Depending on what time you depart Perth today, you could explore a bit more of the town, or head to Cottesloe Beach or back to Fremantle for a final brekkie or lunch.

Perth Airport is just 20 minutes from the Perth CBD and around 35 minutes from Freo. If you’re dropping off a hire car though, be sure to factor in traffic and leave plenty of time to check in.

As for us, we’ve already started planning our next road trip in Western Australia, plus future visits to south west WA to do all the things we didn’t quite manage to squeeze in this time around (not for want of trying). Till next time!

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For more great road tripping itineraries and adventures, check out our Road Trips page, and our bucket list of 100 ultimate road trips around the world.

If you have any questions about our Perth to Albany road trip itinerary or thoughts you’d like to share, let us know in the comments below!