If two wine apprecionados were ever going to officially start their latest grown-up long-haul adventure somewhere, what better place to ease into it than among the awesome architecture, heavenly frescoes, tasty fare and, of course, the divine vines of Italy’s romantic Tuscany?
Having traversed historic Florence and bustling Bologna, along with the vertigo-inducing heights of San Marino, and a slew of medieval hill towns across the Tuscan landscape, by the time we arrive in the ancient wine region of Chianti, we’re very ready for a slower, more relaxed pace, and of course some of that venerated vino.
Our base for this adventure is the beautiful, 18th century Villa Campomaggio, not far from Radda in Chianti, a pretty walled medieval town perched on a hilltop with stunning views out across rolling Tuscan vineyards and olive groves.
Our first taste of the local tipple is at the villa, where we enjoy a lovely Caprese salad and some tasty Tuscan cured meats, washed down with the house Chianti Classico. It’s a promising start to our wine journey.
Later in the afternoon we have a wander around Radda, and come across a cute little wine shop offering tasters from the local organic Caparsa winery. The helpful shopkeeper tells us the Caparsino Chianti Classico Riserva wine is 100% Sangiovese and aged in oak for two and a half years. Soft touches we are, she easily twists our arms into a tasting and, confirming it’s as good as the sales pitch, we depart with a bottle for dinner. I’m liking the Chianti region already.
The next day, we excitedly head out in search of more fruits of the vine, expecting it to be just like Australia, where you can rock up, taste lots of wines for free, buy a bottle or two if you want, and head off to the next vineyard, getting pleasantly tipsy as you go (one of you anyway, woe to the short-straw-pulling designated driver).
But after the fourth closed sign in a row our excitement starts to wane. Perhaps our ‘wing it as we go’ travel policy might be slightly flawed on this occasion? This is confirmed when a friendly local tells us that most wineries close at the weekend, and wherever possible visits should be organised in advance, and they won’t for the most part be free visits . . . . . doh!!
Wineries closed at the weekend? Surely all the cityfolk from nearby Florence and Siena flood into the region at weekends to enjoy the local wine? Apparently not.
Undeterred, we persist with our hopeful drive through the rolling hills around Radda and are finally rewarded with a welcome sign at the beautiful Castello D’Abola (where you can turn up announced, it turns out). There, we’re treated to a lovely wine tasting with a friendly host who gives us a great intro to the wines of the region. Again the Chianti Classico Riserva is our favourite – I see a theme emerging.
Villa D’Abola to the rescue, finally a winery that’s open!
Villa Campomaggio also comes to the rescue that evening with their nightly wine tasting in the bar, replete with nibbles.
Over the next few days we get the hang of wine tasting in Chianti, booking ahead to make sure we’re expected, and enjoying some excellent drives, stunning Tuscan scenery, beautiful vineyards and delicious wines.
We’re looked after well by Simona at Castellare Winery in Castellina, where we get our first walk through a Chianti wine estate and an excellent tasting, just the two of us.
Great first Chianti wine tour at Castellina winery.
We have wine for breakfast at historic Castello di Verrazzano, a former Etruscan and Roman settlement, where records indicate wine has been produced since at least the 12th century. Our visit includes a wander through their picturesque gardens, winery and cellars, followed by a tasting of their wines, olive oil, pecorino cheese and delicious Balsamico Verrazzano. I follow this up with a cheeky glass of grappa, courtesy of our host, who looks and sounds like an Italian version of Michael J. Fox, circa Back to the Future.
Ok so maybe it was a bit early, but Dan was more than happy with the cheese-balsamic combo.
Later in the day, we get off the beaten track by cruising the back roads of Chianti to the stunningly remote Montemaggio Winery, where the knowledgable all-girl crew show us about the estate and serenade us with their wines.
Sisters doing it for themselves at Montmaggio.
All in all a great few days in the Chianti region. We’re surprised at how hilly and green the terrain is, and even more surprised about the cellar door hours, but with some foresight and planning, it’s a fantastic spot to enjoy some of Italy’s best wines.
Good to know
Getting there: Chianti is surprisingly close to both Florence and Siena and can easily be reached by car in about an hour. Organised tours to the vineyards also depart from Florence daily.
Tip: A stay in the Chianti region gives you the opportunity to both relax and explore this beautiful region, as well as organise visits to some of the smaller vineyards. No matter where you stay, Chianti is very easy to explore with a car. We opted for a villa just outside of Radda in Chianti, a great spot to chill, surrounded by hills and vines, after a hard days’ wine tasting. See my review of the villa here.
Tip: Plan your vineyard visits ahead of time. While it’s true that some vineyards like Castello D’Abola will accept walk up visitors, most are by appointment only, and often include a tour of the winery.