2 Week Wild Atlantic Way Itinerary: The Iconic Ireland Road Trip

This two-week Wild Atlantic Way itinerary explores the world’s longest marked-out and signposted coastal driving route. Along the way you’ll enjoy some of Europe’s most dramatic coastal scenery and experience some of its best hospitality during an iconic Ireland road trip.

Ireland has long been one of our favourite countries to visit. There’s something about its sweeping beauty, warm hospitality, and deep-rooted cultural traditions that keeps drawing us back.

Whether it’s the stories shared over a pint of Guinness, the ever-changing coastal views, the haunting traditional music, or the sheer sense of history in every ruin and stone wall, Ireland has well and truly captured our hearts. So much so that this is where we got engaged, many moons ago.

We’d been wanting to drive the Wild Atlantic Way for years, but we wanted to give it the time it deserves. Now that we’ve done it, we can say without reserve that, for us, it’s one of the most spectacular multi-day road trips in the world.

Stretching over 2,500km between Cork and Donegal, this legendary drive covers some of the most breathtaking landscapes in Ireland, along with plenty of history, culture and, of course, a few lively pubs along the way.

It’s a journey through a wild and rugged coastal landscape, edged by windswept cliffs and peppered with historic abbeys, glorious white sand beaches, ancient ringforts, and remote villages where life moves at its own pace.

This action packed, on-the-go two-week Ireland road trip itinerary is designed for those who want to experience as much of the Wild Atlantic Way as possible – in and out of the car – while still getting off the beaten path where we can.

You’ll hike dramatic headlands, explore hidden beaches, seek out ancient ruins, visit traditional towns and villages, and sample the odd pint of the ‘black stuff’.

Strap yourself in for some of the most impressive scenery in Europe. Just don’t forget your rain jacket, it wouldn’t be the Wild Atlantic Way without a bit of unpredictable weather.

Wild Atlantic Way Road Trip Itinerary – Snapshot

Start: Cork

Finish: Muff with the final night in Derry (Londonderry)

Distance: appx. 2,500km (1,550 miles)

How long do I need? 2 weeks is the absolute minimum to road trip Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way from end to end. With less time you’d really need to pick and choose your personal highlights.

Overnight stops: 1 night in Rosscarbery or Kinsale, 1 night in Schull, 1 night in Portmagee, 1 night in Dingle, 1 night in Doolin or Kilkee, 2 nights in Galway, 1 night in Westport or Newport, 1 night in Ballina, 1 night in Sligo, 1 night in Donegal, 1 night in Ardara, 1 night in Letterkenny, and 1 night in Derry.

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What’s the route?

Our Wild Atlantic Way itinerary takes a clockwise route between Cork and Derry along Ireland’s most iconic driving route, from the southern shores of County Cork to the rugged headlands of County Donegal.

After picking up your car at Cork Airport, you’ll set off towards the colourful harbour town of Kinsale, known for its seafood and colourful, historic streets.

From here, you’ll hug the beautiful Cork coastline before reaching the dramatic cliffs of Mizen Head, Ireland’s most south-westerly point.

From there, the route winds around the rugged, windswept beauty of the Sheep’s Head and Beara peninsulas, before taking on the legendary Ring of Kerry.

The wild landscapes of Dingle and the breathtaking Slea Head Drive come next, offering arguably some of the best views along the Wild Atlantic Way.

Just when you thought it couldn’t get any better, you get to County Clare, with Kilkee Cliffs and the Cliffs of Moher providing plenty of wow, before the otherworldly limestone terrain of the Burren leads you towards the lively city of Galway.

You’ll be onto your third or fourth SD card by the time the wild beauty of the Connemara comes into your viewfinder, followed by the coastal charms of County Mayo, and the windswept beauty of Achill Island.

As you enter Sligo, the striking flat-topped Benbulben mountain dominates the skyline before you head further north, where Donegal delivers some of the most dramatic scenery yet, including the towering sea cliffs of Sliabh Liag.

You’ll have run out of superlatives by the time you reach the final stretch along the Inishowen 100, before passing through the official end point near Muff village and winding up this iconic Ireland road trip in the historic city of Derry, just across the border in Northern Ireland. It’s the perfect finale to a truly epic journey.

Planning an Ireland Road Trip Itinerary

How long do I need for a Wild Atlantic Way road trip?

Let’s start with the elephant in the room. Despite what you read, it’s not possible to experience everything there is to see and do along the Wild Atlantic Way in a week, or for that matter even 2 weeks.

We spent a month doing this iconic drive and at times it still felt like we were on a flying schedule and barely scratching the surface.

As with any road trip where you have a finite amount of time, there are trade-offs and compromises to be made based on your particular interests and travel style.

Wild Atlantic Way in 7 days

To get the most out of a week exploring the Wild Atlantic Way, we would suggest picking either the northern or southern sections of our two week itinerary, and exploring one of those areas in depth.

If seeing the whole route between Cork and Derry is a must for you, be prepared for a LOT of driving. It is possible, just with a hefty dose of compromise.

You could pick up your car in Cork, visit the sites around Killarney and head to Mizen Head on Day 1. After that you could spend a day each exploring the Ring of Kerry, Dingle Peninsula, the Cliffs of Moher and Kilkee, the Burren, and Achill Island, before spending your final day exploring Donegal, including the incredible cliffs of Sliabh Liag, and finishing in Derry.

Wild Atlantic Way in 14 days

With 2 weeks in Ireland you could do the Wild Atlantic Way itinerary we’ve suggested here.

We’ve organised this itinerary around the outdoors, making the best of the viewpoints, beaches, cliff walks, ancient sites and hikes along this incredible route.

This makes for a busy and rewarding itinerary, however the compromises are early starts, lunch on the go sometimes, and a little less time spent exploring towns and cities.

You could just as easily organise your Ireland road trip around spending more time experiencing the unique culture, traditions, music, cuisine and pubs of the Wild Atlantic Way. You’d still get to see plenty of the beautiful coastline as you travel the route, but the trade-off would be skipping some of the hikes, historic sites and viewpoints along the way.

With more time on the Wild Atlantic Way

Regardless of whether you’re prioritising the outdoors or culture in your Ireland itinerary, there will still be a stack of places and experiences you won’t get to in two weeks. With more time you could consider visiting some of the following:

• Cork City: A lively, walkable city with a friendly vibe and plenty to see and do. From its riverside quays and colourful streets to its excellent food scene, it’s a great place to soak up local culture and explore historic sites.
• Cobh: Half-an-hour from Cork, the pretty town of Cobh spreads out along the harbourfront in a wave of terraced colour, rising up to the vast St Colman’s Cathedral. The town is most well-known for the Titanic Experience, a fantastic exhibition on the ill-fated ship located at the site of its last port of call.
• Killarney: With lakes, mountains and woodlands right on the doorstep, Killarney has viewpoints aplenty. The famed Gap of Dunloe offers an epic bike ride or hike, while history buffs will love exploring Ross Castle and Muckross House and Abbey.
• Skellig Islands: Take a day trip to see the incredible wildlife and vistas of the ruggedly beautiful Skellig Islands, and climb the stairs to the World Heritage monastic ruins of Skellig Michael.
• Valentia Island: Just over the bridge from Portmagee, Valentia Island is a rugged and beautiful place. Home to one of the highest points in Kerry, the Geokaun Mountain, along with the 600-foot-high Fogher Cliffs, and the 400-million-year-old Tetrapod trackway fossil trail.
• Aran Islands: Popular for day trips and longer stays, the Aran Islands feel wild and dramatic, with ancient clifftop forts, quiet beaches and cosy pubs.
• Mullet Peninsula/Blacksod: Get well off the beaten track in Mayo’s north-western corner, a Gaeltacht region where Irish is the first language for many. There’s whale-watching in season, dark skies (maybe northern lights if you’re lucky), wild walks, boat trips to deserted islands, lighthouse tours and traditional culture.
• Derry (also known as Londonderry): You can easily while away a few days in Derry, a compact, walkable city packed with history, culture, and charm. From strolling the famous 17th-century city walls to exploring the street art and Bogside to learn about the city’s fraught history, it’s a fascinating place to visit.

Best time to visit Ireland

For the best balance of both weather and crowds, late spring (May to June) and early autumn (September to October) are a good bet for visiting Ireland, and particularly for a Wild Atlantic Way roadtrip.

During these months, the weather is relatively warm, and you’ll have plenty of daylight hours to explore the countryside and coastline. The spring months also bring lush landscapes and colourful blooms, while autumn offers beautiful golden and red leaves.

The summer months, between July and August have warmer temperatures and longer days, which are great for exploring Ireland’s outdoors. However, this is when popular tourist spots are at their busiest, so expect crowds and higher costs.

Winter (November to February) sees fewer tourists, which means you can experience a quieter, more peaceful side of Ireland. While the weather is colder and wetter, it’s a great time for cosy pub visits, scenic winter walks, and experiencing Ireland’s rich history and culture without the crowds.

We did our Ireland road trip in May, and while we had a few soggy days, the weather largely behaved and we had mild temperatures, and plenty of sunshine. We’ve also done parts of the route in winter and were lucky enough to have mainly dry, cool days, and much quieter roads.

Whatever time of year you decide to visit, be prepared for unpredictable weather, bring a fleece and a raincoat, and always have a Plan B.

Getting to Cork

Cork is an extremely accessible city, whether you’re traveling from within Ireland or overseas. There are direct flights from numerous major European hubs, including London, Paris and Amsterdam.

Cork is easily accessible by road from Dublin along the M8 motorway, taking about two and a half hours.

The city’s main railway station, Kent Station, offers direct domestic train routes from Dublin, Limerick and other cities, providing a comfortable and scenic trip through the Irish countryside.

Similarly, intercity coach services operate between Cork and key destinations across Ireland, including Limerick, Galway and Dublin. You can check prices on Busbud.

Driving in Ireland

In Ireland, the steering wheel is on the right and you drive on the left side of the road. Hailing from Australia and the UK, we’re used this and we’re also very familiar with narrow countryside lanes, but both of these can come with a bit of trepidation if you’re new to driving in Ireland.

While the roads are generally well-maintained, there are a few things to keep in mind to ensure you enjoy your driving experience.

When driving in rural areas or along some parts of the coast, be prepared for narrow roads, particularly in the more remote parts of the Wild Atlantic Way. These roads can be quite winding in places and can reduce to very narrow single lane tracks in some areas, with only limited passing spots.

To add to the challenge, you’ll also find some remote stretches of road when driving in Ireland where stone walls or brambles line the roadside, and it’s not uncommon to come across livestock on the road.

Unlike the UK, we came across very few fixed speed cameras in Ireland, although we saw traffic police from time to time, and outside of Dublin, didn’t come across any toll roads.

Speed limits are posted in kilometres per hour (km/h), and like the UK, you’ll find signs indicating maximum speeds, which can be up to 120km/h on some motorways and 80km/h on regional roads.

Ireland’s Road Safety Authority website has plenty of helpful advice for tourists on driving safely in Ireland.

Navigating around Ireland

As we had UK SIM cards, we were able to use Google Maps for our Ireland road trip and it worked perfectly for us.

If you don’t have a local SIM, getting online in Ireland using an international eSIM like Yesim can make navigating much easier.

Having access to mobile data on the go will let you access real-time traffic updates, and allow you to change plans on the go in response to any issues relating to traffic, weather or road conditions.

Ireland road trip car hire

Unless you plan to bring your own car, you’ll need to hire a vehicle to make the most of Ireland’s iconic Wild Atlantic Way.

Manual cars are the default rental car in Ireland as that’s what the majority of the population tend to drive. Automatic cars tend to cost more to hire.

While we know lots of people love the comfort and safety of an SUV, we’d strongly recommend opting for cars on the smaller side – you’ll thank us when you’re on one of those single track roads on a remote peninsula with a motorhome coming the other way.

Places to stay on the Wild Atlantic Way

You’ll find a range of accommodation options along the route, including hostels, guesthouses, pub stays, apartments, cosy cottages, bed and breakfasts, and fancy hotels.

Options in and around major cities and towns tend to be quite broad, however we found those options can dwindle in some of the more secluded spots along the route, and the accommodation that does exist can book out quite far in advance.

As such, if you have a specific accommodation type or budget in mind, we’d advise booking your stays in advance if you can.

On previous Ireland road trips, we generally stayed in traditional B&Bs, as they were always well-priced and provided a great way to experience local hospitality and start the day with a full Irish breakfast.

On our most recent trip though, we found B&Bs to be a bit of a mixed bag. Some certainly offer the same lovely Irish hospitality, however it’s worth noting that prices are less on the budget side these days, breakfast isn’t always guaranteed, and some are now self-check in so you may not interact much with your hosts.

If experiencing Irish hospitality and yum local breakfasts are an important part of your experience, be sure to check what’s included in your booking to avoid any disappointment.

Save money in Ireland with an OPW Heritage Card

Ireland’s Office of Public Works (OPW) manages a range of castles, abbeys, historic houses, prehistoric sites, parks and gardens right around the country. A number of these sites charge entry fees.

You can save money on these entry fees with an OPW Heritage Card. It’s €40 and provides free and unlimited access to OPW sites for a year, though the card will earn its keep in two weeks if you plan on visiting more than a few OPW-managed sites during your Ireland road trip.

You can buy OPW Heritage Cards online or at any fee-paying OPW heritage site. English Heritage membership will also give you entry to OPW sites.

2 Week Wild Atlantic Way Itinerary

Day 1: Cork to Rosscarbery via Kinsale

Highlights: Charles Fort | Kinsale Town | Timoleague Abbey
Total driving distance: appx. 100km (60 miles)
Total driving time: appx. 2 hours
Overnight: Rosscarbery or Kinsale

Our Wild Atlantic Way road trip starts at Cork Airport, where you’ll pick up your hire car and hit the road. From here, it’s a short drive along the R600 to Kinsale. Keep a keen eye out for the ‘Welcome to the Wild Atlantic Way’ sign around 2.5km from Kinsale.

Check out Charles Fort

Built in the 17th century, this impressive star-shaped fortress commandeers a beautiful spot overlooking Kinsale Harbour.

Park out front and grab a coffee or snack from one of the food trucks, before paying the small entry fee (free with an OPW card) and having a wander around this ambient site, with its sweeping views over the harbour and coastline.

Inside the fort, you’ll find well-preserved walls, tunnels and barracks with decent information boards throughout, and a few exhibition spaces where you can dive deeper into the fort’s history.

If you have the time and the weather is behaving, you could also consider parking in Kinsale and taking the Scilly Walk, a 2.1km (each way) scenic trail along the coast to the fort.

Grab a taste of colourful Kinsale

Kinsale is known for its seafood and there are plenty of great restaurants to choose from. We’ve been raving for nearly twenty years about the mussels we had here in 2006.

That kind of nostalgia puts a lot of pressure on a meal, so it was probably for the best that mussels weren’t on the menu when we returned to our favourite little pub, The Spaniard,for lunch.

Instead, we had seafood chowder and we’ll likely be talking about that (and the Irish brown bread) for the next twenty years.

Beyond the food, Kinsale is a charming harbour town with colourful buildings, narrow streets and a lively atmosphere. On our most recent visit, people milled about the waterfront munching on paper-wrapped fish and chips.

Allow an hour or two for Kinsale after visiting Charles Fort. You might even want to come back here for the night.

Exploring beyond Kinsale

Once you’ve finished wandering around Kinsale, jump in the car and head out to the Old Head of Kinsale. You’ll get your first taste of the Wild Atlantic Way’s stunning cliffs on this dramatic headland – a teaser for what’s to come later in this trip.

While the end of the peninsula and lighthouse are located on private land, the surrounding area is well worth a visit to see the sheer cliffs and stunning ocean views.

There’s also a 200-year-old signal tower here that houses a quirky little museum dedicated to the tragic events of 1915 when a German U-boat sank the RMS Lusitania offshore.

Continuing further west, the road passes through rolling green hills with grazing cattle aside the calm waters of River Arigideen on the way to Timoleague Abbey.

Stop for a wander around this striking medieval ruin by the water, before passing by picturesque Inchydoney Beach on the way to Galley Head via a very scenic but very narrow single-track road.

While this is another headland on private property, there’s room for a handful of cars to park up at the end of the road. We paused here to enjoy the views before continuing on to Rosscarbery.

Alternatively at this point you could also opt for nearby Clonakilty, or head back to stay in Kinsale.

Where to stay around Rosscarbery and Clonakilty

Rosscarbery is a laid-back seaside town in West Cork with a few lively pubs, and easy access to beaches and coastal walks. Alternatively, just 15 minutes away Clonakilty offers a more colourful, livelier option for an overnight stop. Stays in the area range from B&Bs, to self-catering cottages, farm stays and hotels.

We stayed at The Landmark, conveniently located just a short walk from the centre of Rosscarbery and the waterfront. Rooms are clean and simple, and there’s free, off-street parking on site.

Other options in the area that get consistently good reviews include:

• Good value: Bethel Guesthouse – Welcoming guesthouse with extremely friendly hosts, clean, comfortable rooms, and lovely coastal views just 2.5km from Rosscarbery.
• Mid-range: O’Donovans Hotel – Family run hotel and traditional pub in the centre of Clonakilty with a small car park and on-street parking nearby. Rooms are comfortable, with an old-world feel, staff are friendly, and breakfast is included in the rate.
• Spend a bit more: Dunmore House Hotel – Lovely, family run hotel with tasteful, comfy rooms, ocean views, and fantastic food on the water just 5km from Clonakilty.

Where to stay in Kinsale

If you want a slightly livelier stay with more options for food and drink tonight you could opt to drive back to colourful Kinsale, around an hour backtracking from Galley Head. Just remember, a stay here would mean an earlier start tomorrow.

The benefit of course is a greater choice of accommodation, and some excellent drinking and dining options, particularly seafood. The following options get consistently good reviews:

• Good value: The K Kinsale – Boutique guesthouse with cosy rooms, comfortable beds, and helpful, friendly hosts, located just a 5-minute walk from centre of Kinsale. Parking spaces outside and street parking nearby.
• Mid-range: Blind Gate House – Comfortable guesthouse just 5 minutes’ walk from Kinsale, with spacious, clean rooms, free on-site parking, friendly hosts, and superb breakfast included in the rate.
• Spend a bit more: Perryville House – Elegant waterfront hotel in the heart of Kinsale, with comfortable, spacious rooms, professional staff, gourmet breakfasts, and free parking for guests (limited spaces).

Day 2: Rosscarbery to Mizen Head

Highlights: Drombeg Stone Circle | Lough Hyne | Mizen Head | Altar Wedge Grave
Total driving distance: appx. 130km (80 miles)
Total driving time: appx. 2.5 hours
Overnight: Schull

Start your day at Drombeg Stone Circle

Day 2 of our Wild Atlantic Way road trip starts with a visit to Drombeg Stone Circle, around half-an-hour west of Rosscarbery.

One of Ireland’s best-preserved prehistoric sites, this ancient monument dates back over 3,000 years and serves up an atmospheric start to the day.

It’s worth taking the time to wander this ambient site overlooking rolling hills towards the sea. You’ll find a couple of interps boards providing some useful historical context, including an explanation of the cooking methods employed in the nearby Bronze Age hut remains.

The site is free to enter and has a small car park with space for around ten cars, so get here as early as you can to avoid the crowds.

The road to Mizen Head

Depart the stones and head south-west past the cute village of Leap towards Toe Head. At this point, you have two options: take the narrow, single-track, potholed loop road around Toe Head (we found it a nice enough drive but there weren’t many places to stop or park up). Or carry on to the Wild Atlantic Way Discovery Point past Toe Head, which has lovely coastal views back towards the peninsula.

After enjoying the scenery, continue on past cute Tragumna Beach, a good spot for a swim or toilet break, until you reach Lough Hyne.

I’ll admit to being blown away by this beautiful saltwater lake just outside Skibbereen. Lough Hyne is a Marine Nature Reserve (Ireland’s first), with calm, glassy waters. On the day we visited, it was bustling with swimmers, kayakers and paddle boarders.

From here, it’s only ten minutes’ drive south-west to Baltimore Harbour, a lively seaside village known for its sailing and seafood. This is a great place for a coffee or a short stroll along the waterfront before heading further west.

Explore Mizen Head and the Mizen Peninsula

We arrived in Schull in time to check into our accommodation, tick off the Wild Atlantic Way Discovery Point at the harbour, and find a spot for a quick lunch.

This afternoon is all about Mizen Head, Ireland’s most southwesterly point, and a huge highlight of this leg of our southern Ireland road trip.

The coastline here is all drama, and once you cross the bridge towards the signal station you can explore walkways and viewpoints that showcase everything we love about this corner of Ireland.

Walk through the exhibitions in the musty old rooms of the remote keepers’ cottages to get sense of the solitude they must have felt here as the Atlantic winds pounded the windows. Then climb to the higher points for some of the best views in the country.

If you’re here between April and July, keep your eyes peeled for large fins cutting through the waves below the cliffs. You might just get lucky and spot one or two of the coast’s most exciting seasonal visitors, basking sharks!

We were treated to several of the gentle giants feeding just below the surface, a delightful surprise and an unexpected bonus of our Mizen Head visit.

Heading back towards Schull for the night, take a detour to Barley Cove. The beautiful sandy beach here is framed by dunes which are said to have been formed by a tsunami following an earthquake in Lisbon in 1755. If the weather’s good, it’s a great place for a walk; a floating walkway links the parking area with the beach.

If you have the energy, before reaching Schull make one final stop at Altar Wedge Grave, an ancient megalithic tomb overlooking the sea and, we reckon, a pretty awesome place to wind up the sightseeing on the second day of our Wild Atlantic Way tour.

We finished the day back in Schull Harbour, sitting outside a lively pub in the sunshine with a pint of Guinness. Schull itself is a lovely coastal town with a relaxed vibe. With a handful of pubs, restaurants and cafes, it makes for a convenient stop tonight.

Where to stay on the Mizen Peninsula

There isn’t as much accommodation on the Mizen Peninsula as we expected, but you will find a smattering of B&Bs, guesthouses, cottages and the occasional hotel, particularly around Schull, a pretty laid-back harbour town with a vibrant main street lined with cafés, pubs, and local shops.

The following mid-range options get consistently good reviews:

• Corthna Lodge – Comfortable and welcoming B&B with spacious rooms and nice common areas. A tasty breakfast is included in the price, and there’s free parking on-site. Located in the countryside just 1.5km from Schull.
• Schull Harbour Hotel & Leisure Centre – Centrally located on Schull Harbour with spacious, modern rooms, some with harbour views and free public parking across the street. Facilities include a pool, gym, sauna, steam room, bar and restaurant.
• Goleen Harbour – Modern cabins with fully equipped kitchen with sea views, set in a quiet location around 5 minutes walk from the small town of Goleen. Guests can book use of the on-site sauna and hot tub for an extra fee.

We stayed at Elm Grove in Schull, honestly one of the best homestays we’ve ever slept in. A short walk from town, this modern, stylish home provided a good sized, comfortable room, with a large, well-appointed private bathroom, and private on-site parking.

Day 3: Mizen Head to Kinsale via Sheep’s Head and Beara Peninsula

Highlights: Sheep’s Head Loop Walk | Ring of Beara | Uragh Stone Circle | Killarney
Total driving distance: appx. 260km (160 miles)
Total driving time: appx. 5 hours
Overnight: Killarney or Kenmare

Stretch your legs at Sheep’s Head

Get an early start today for the scenic, hour-long drive west to Sheep’s Head, one of Ireland’s most peaceful and unspoilt peninsulas.

The roads narrow the further onto the peninsula you drive, and the expansive coastal views just get better and better until you reach the Discovery Point where the road ends.

If you’re feeling energetic, we’d highly recommend hiking the 4.2km Sheep’s Head Lighthouse and Lough Akeen Loop.

This was the first hike of our Ireland road trip and, apart from a couple of sheep, it felt like we had the whole wild peninsula to ourselves as we trekked through the rugged terrain past Lough Akeen to the lighthouse and back. The views here are spectacular at every turn.

All up, expect the walk to take around an hour-and-a-half. You can find more details of the route and conditions on AllTrails.

As you leave the peninsula, be sure to stop at the two Seefin viewpoints, set on a stunning ridge with sweeping views over Bantry Bay and the coast, before continuing on to Bantry.

If stately homes are your thing, consider making the time to explore popular Bantry House, an 18th century estate near Bantry. House and garden tours are available here, as well as fancy overnight stays. Alternatively, the ruins of 16th century Carriganass Castle are also nearby, as are a couple of stone circles.

We were ready for a break after the Sheep’s Head hike, so we opted instead for a well-earned coffee and tasty toastie at the Grounded N71 food truck, which sits by the water offering views over the bay and towards town. There’s also a decent-sized supermarket here if you want to stock up on supplies for a packed lunch later (which is what we did).

Explore the Ring of Beara

Once you’ve refuelled and stretched your legs in Bantry, continue west along the coast onto the R572, and the Beara Peninsula.

Beara has a distinctly different feel to the Mizen and Sheep’s Head peninsulas, with beautiful bare mountains overlooking the coast, and a decent two-lane road with a 100km speed limit.

Keep an eye out for the Wild Atlantic Way Discovery Points on the way to Castletownbere, one of Ireland’s largest fishing ports. There’s a real working harbour feel here, and it’s a good place for a quick wander before heading to the ruins of Puxley Manor and Dunboy Castle.

From here you can continue around the coast to a couple of gorgeous stretches of sand at Ballydonegan Beach and Allihies Beach.

Or, if you’re a keen twitcher, consider a detour to take Ireland’s only cable car across to Dursey Island. It’s one of Cork’s most popular spots for bird watching, with the chance of seeing shearwaters, guillemots, gannets, choughs, razorbills and puffins in season. You’ll need a good couple of hours to explore the island on foot.

With only limited time, we opted for the beaches and a quick stop at O’Neill’s Bar & Restaurant in colourful Allihies for a nice pint of Murphys and a snack in the late afternoon sun.

Pause at timeless Uragh Stone Circle

Today’s drive continues through the postcard-pretty village of Eyeries, with its brightly painted houses, before eventually passing into County Kerry and on towards our final stop of the day, Uragh Stone Circle.

Without doubt some of the best travel moments are those you expect the least. And that was certainly the case for us when, after a busy day, we mustered up the last reserves of energy for ‘one more short walk’ to see what we thought was an obscure stone circle that we knew next to nothing about.

You may well be tempted to turn around as you start driving down the narrow, potholed track to this site, but stay with it. For us, this is one of the most scenic megalithic sites in Ireland, and the highlight of our day.

Uragh Stone Circle has been standing watch over Lough Inchiquin for around 4,000 years, in a stunning natural amphitheatre framed by rugged hills. It’s a peaceful and photogenic spot, especially late in the day when the sun is just right, so take your time and enjoy this wonderful site. It’s on private property and there’s an honesty box for a suggested donation of €5.  

Wrap up the day in lively Killarney

Today ends with a final, hour-long drive to Killarney, a slight deviation from the classic Wild Atlantic Way route, but the liveliest town in south-west Ireland.

We’ve visited Killarney a number of times now and while it’s very much a tourist town and the traffic can be dire, it has a bustling atmosphere, a great range of pubs and restaurants, and a terrific local brewery. Best of all is the stunning national park and the famous Gap of Dunloe right on the doorstep.

While we only allow a night here on this 2 week Ireland itinerary, Killarney is worth a few days if you’re on a longer trip.

Another option for tonight, especially if you don’t want to deviate off the Wild Atlantic Way, is to stay nearer the coast at Kenmare.

Where to stay in Killarney

As a major tourist centre, you won’t be surprised to learn accommodation options in Killarney cover everything from fancy hotels to cosy B&Bs and self-catering cottages. We’ve stayed here numerous times over the years, and whether you’re after luxury or budget-friendly comfort, Killarney has you covered.

During our most recent visit we opted for the Parkavon Hotel, a large, modern place just a 10-minute walk from the town centre, with free parking, pool, sauna, gym, bar and restaurant. Our room was clean and spacious, and we found staff to be courteous and professional.

Other options that get consistently good reviews include:

• Good value: Chapel Place, Town Centre – Centrally located apartment with a fully equipped kitchen and comfortable living area just a short walk from everything. Public parking.
• Mid-range: Foley’s Townhouse Killarney – Stylish guesthouse in the heart of Killarney with comfortable rooms, bar and restaurant, lovely staff, included breakfast, and free on-site parking.
• Spend a bit more: The Europe Hotel & Resort – Luxurious 5-star hotel around 5km west of town, with spacious, modern rooms, friendly, attentive staff and stunning views over Lough Lein and Killarney National Park. Facilities include multiple restaurants, indoor and outdoor pools and a modern gym.

Where to stay in Kenmare

Picturesque Kenmare is conveniently nestled between the Beara and Iveragh Peninsulas, making it a popular stopping point along the Wild Atlantic Way with a good range of accommodation on offer.

It’s a cute, colourful town with a nice vibe, great pubs, its very own stone circle, and plenty of options for dinner. If you’re looking to stay here, the following options get consistently good reviews:

• Good value: Laburnum B&B – Adults-only B&B with comfortable rooms located in a quiet location just a 15-minute walk from Kenmare. There’s free onsite parking and the friendly hosts provide a delicious breakfast that’s included in the rate.
• Mid-range: Lagom Restaurant & Townhouse – Cozy, adults-only B&B in central Kenmare with comfortable, spacious rooms and exceptional service. Guests rave about the comfy beds, delicious breakfast, and the friendly staff, with the location perfect for exploring the town.
• Spend a bit more: Park Hotel Kenmare – Luxurious 5-star hotel overlooking Kenmare Bay, with beautiful grounds, elegant rooms, spa facilities, a 25-metre pool, and top-notch dining restaurant. Just 5 minutes’ walk from the centre of town.

Day 4: Killarney to Portmagee via the Ring of Kerry (south)

Highlights: Staigue Stone Fort | Derrynane Beach | Ballinskelligs Beach | Kerry Cliffs
Total driving distance: appx. 120km (75 miles)
Total driving time: appx. 2.5 hours
Overnight: Portmagee

Meet the Iveragh Peninsula

Day 4 of our Wild Atlantic Way road trip takes us to the Iveragh Peninsula, a huge wedge of land in Ireland’s south-west. This might just be our most dramatic day yet, with stone forts, sublime beaches and even more stunning cliffs, so make sure your camera is charged up!

The Iveragh Peninsula is home to the famous, 179km (111 mile) Ring of Kerry, a stand-out drive among stand-out drives along the Wild Atlantic Way, and one of the most popular corners of Ireland.

You can drive the Ring of Kerry in a day, which we did the first time we visited. But it really does deserve more time if you can spare it. That’s why we’ve set aside a couple of days of our Ireland road trip itinerary to explore this incredible corner of County Kerry.

Killarney to Sneem

We started the day with a petrol top-up, a couple of breakfast rolls and coffee from Sheehan’s Centra in Killarney, before heading straight for Ladies Viewpoint to enjoy our brekky with one of the most iconic views in Ireland at our feet.

Further along, Moll’s Gap offers up more sweeping views of the surrounding mountains before the road winds down to Sneem, a colourful little village split in two by the River Sneem. It’s a good place to stretch your legs, wander along the river, or grab another quick coffee before heading further west.

Soak up the magic at Staigue Fort

One of the things we love about Ireland road trips are the many opportunities to get off the main tourist drives and explore some of the wilder, more peaceful, harder-to-get-to spots.

Staigue Fort is just such a place – located at the end of a winding single-track road through the countryside that the big coaches can’t reach.

This Iron Age ring fort, built without mortar and still over five metres high in places, is one of Ireland’s best-preserved ring forts, and among our favourite sites in Kerry. There’s an honesty box with a suggested donation of a couple of euros.

Returning ten years after we first fell in love with this spot was a real treat, especially with the sun shining. While people do trickle through, hang around long enough and you may briefly get the place to yourself; trust us, those moments are magic!

Relax at Derrynane Beach

Around 20 minutes further along the coast road, follow the signs to Derrynane Beach. This stunning stretch of dune-backed beach is considered to be one of Ireland’s best.

The beach and water here are mesmerising, but it’s also worth exploring the dunes. If you’re here at low tide, head across to Abbey Island to check out the ambient ruins of the 6th century abbey.

There’s a pathway beyond the abbey’s cemetery which leads up a small hill. Head up here for epic views over what we reckon is one of the most photogenic sites in Ireland.

Take in the scenery at Coomakista Viewpoint and Ballinskelligs Beach

The drive then takes you up to popular Coomakista Viewpoint, one of the most dramatic stops on the Ring of Kerry. We stopped here briefly to enjoy the wonderful views over Kenmare Bay and the rugged coastline while enjoying our packed lunch.

Heading further west, you’ll reach Ballinskelligs Beach. Today the beach is a peaceful mix of golden sand and rocky outcrops. It’s hard to imagine, but the crumbling ruin of 16th century Ballinskelligs Castle was once intimidating enough to scare off pirates.

Nearby, the atmospheric ruins of 13th century Ballinskelligs Abbey rest by the water, easily accessible via a walkway that runs just behind the shoreline.

Marvel at the Kerry Cliffs

It’ll take less than half an hour to drive to the Kerry Cliffs, our final stop of the day before we reach Portmagee.

The drive takes you past a handful of outstanding viewpoints, including Cúm an Easpaig Cliff View with its sweeping vistas.

Often overshadowed by their famous cousin up in County Clare, the Kerry Cliffs tower more than 300 metres above the Atlantic, making them around a hundred metres higher than the Cliffs of Moher.

Formed 400 million years ago from a desert landscape, these impressive cliffs look out over Valentia Island and, on a clear day, the Skellig Islands.

There’s a decent-sized car park and ticket office where you pay the €4 entry fee to access the site. Well-maintained gravel paths take you around the viewpoints, some of which are up quite steep inclines.

Wrap up the day in Portmagee

Finish the day by heading into Portmagee and checking into your accommodation, then wander into town for a meal in this lovely fishing village.

There’s a handful of cosy pubs and waterfront restaurants to choose from here and, as you might expect, seafood features heavily on menus. We enjoyed some steaming bowls of chowder at The Moorings.

Where to stay in Portmagee

Portmagee is a small, working harbour village on the Iveragh Peninsula, best known as the gateway to the Skellig Islands. It has a laid-back charm, with colourful cottages and fishing boats bobbing in the harbour. Accommodation here tends towards family-run B&Bs, guesthouses and the occasional self-catering cottage.

The following options get consistently good reviews:

• Good value: Atlantic Sunset – Set in a quiet spot around a kilometre from Portmagee, this guesthouse has clean, modern, spacious rooms with basic kitchenettes, private bathrooms, on-site parking and super friendly hosts.
• Good value: Seagull Cottage B&B – This charming guesthouse around a ten-minute walk from Portmagee, offers clean, comfortable rooms with beautiful views, and extremely helpful, thoughtful hosts. A decent breakfast is available (for a fee) and there’s free, on-site parking.
• Mid-range: The Moorings Hotel & Seafood Restaurant – Perfectly located right on Portmagee’s waterfront, this guesthouse offers clean, comfortable rooms, a cosy atmosphere and tasty food in the on-site pub/restaurant. Parking is on street or in a nearby public carpark.

We stayed at peaceful Valentia View, located a few minutes’ drive from Portmagee and a great base for exploring the surrounding area. We loved the sea views from the property, along with the clean, comfortable rooms, and super friendly, helpful hosts.

Explore the Skellig Islands (if you have time)

Portmagee is the gateway to the Skellig Islands and a tour to the islands is an unforgettable experience. It’s absolutely worth the effort if you’re here at the right time of year and have more time up your sleeve, or are willing to rearrange your Wild Atlantic Way itinerary a bit.

The two jagged, inhospitable looking crags of the Skelligs rise steeply from the Atlantic, about an hour by boat from the mainland.

The larger island, Skellig Michael, is a World Heritage site for the extraordinary, well-preserved ancient monastic settlement that was built here by a small group of ascetic monks around 1,500 years ago.

In the summer, the islands are also major breeding sites for numerous sea birds, including kittiwakes, fulmars, puffins and over 30,000 pairs of breeding gannets on Little Skellig.

There are regular daily boat trips around both islands between April and September, with limited daily landings on Skellig Michael between May and September. Reaching the monastic site involves a steep and uneven climb up (and back down) 600+ steps.

It’s important to note that tours, especially landing tours, book out far in advance. Also, the area’s notoriously fickle weather can result in last minute cancellations on safety grounds.

We experienced this first-hand, booking our landing tour months before our trip, only to have it cancelled on the day due to sea swells making landings impossible. We were still able to do a boat tour around the islands, and we encountered a large school of surface-feeding basking sharks en route, but Skellig Michael remains on our bucket list. That’s nature!

Day 5: Portmagee to Dingle via the Ring of Kerry (north) and Slea Head Drive

Highlights: Cahergal Stone Fort | Slea Head Drive | Dunmore Head Loop Hike | Dunquin Pier | West Kerry Brewery Tour
Total driving distance: appx. 160km (100 miles)
Total driving time: appx. 3 hours
Overnight: Dingle

Vast scenery meets cracking history on Dingle, the most western-reaching of Ireland’s west coast peninsulas.

Like the Ring of Kerry, this spectacular stretch of wild coastline is a magnet for tourists, so if you want to linger, book a stay well ahead, especially if you’re planning to visit during peak season.

Start the day at Cahergal Stone Fort

For the second day running, we’ll be starting at one of Ireland’s iconic ring forts. Cahergal Stone Fort was built over 1,000 years ago and looks almost as good as new.

That’s largely due to upper parts of the walls being painstakingly reconstructed, giving a real sense of how it would have looked in its heyday, looming formidably over the surrounding landscape.

This is a very popular spot on the Wild Atlantic Way tour bus trail, and there’s only limited car parking. If you’re patient though, you might still score some ambient moments to yourself like we did.

Sadly, nearby Leacanabuaile Fort seems to be closed to the public these days. As is nearby Ballycarbery Castle, however you can still walk the rocky shoreline there for views of the castle being slowly being reclaimed by nature.

Drive the Ring of Kerry to Slea Head

Follow the N70 along the northern side of the Ring of Kerry, passing the Wild Atlantic Way Discovery Point at Mountain Stage Layby, with views towards the Dingle Peninsula, until you reach Rossbeigh Strand, our last stop on the Ring of Kerry.

This long sandy beach reaching out into Dingle Bay is a good spot to stretch the legs. If you’re feeling energetic, there are beautiful views to be had from Rossbeigh Beach Overlook, accessed via a steep, narrow road to the side of the beach.

It’ll take around an hour, depending on traffic, to reach our first stop on the Dingle Peninsula, the 5km stretch of sand at Inch Strand. It’s yet another stunning beach, famous for its surf, and a good spot to get out of the car, use bathroom facilities, or grab a coffee from the café here.

Explore the Slea Head Drive

Pick up something for a packed lunch in Dingle town before continuing on to the Slea Head Drive, the picturesque loop around the tip of the peninsula that begins just past Dingle Distillery.

A scenic route within a scenic route, the Slea Head Drive is where you’ll find most of Dingle’s best sites, from dramatic cliffs to golden beaches, ancient ruins and charming villages.

Around fifteen minutes after you leave Dingle, you come across a cluster of really interesting, and very popular, historic sites located within a few kilometres of each other: the Fairy Fort Ringfort, Dunbeg Fort and Fahan Beehive Huts.

While they’re all worth visiting, the pick of the bunch for us was Fahan Beehive Huts, where you can explore the collection of drystone beehive huts, watched over by a collection of extremely cute sheepdogs – keep an eye out for puppies! All these sites charge an entry fee of a few euros (carry cash if you can, there was a surcharge on card payments at some places).

Enjoy panoramic views of the rugged coastline at the lookouts at Ceann Sleibhe and Blaskets View, before winding up at Coumeenoole Beach. We had our packed lunch here enjoying views of this extremely wild and windswept cove fringed by towering cliffs on both sides.

If you’re up for a bit more adventure, the Dunmore Head Loop Hike is an exhilarating, 2.6km loop walk from the beach right out to the headland, the westernmost point of mainland Ireland. It’s not an overly challenging walk, and the views throughout are stunning.

Take on Dunquin Pier then enjoy a craft beer

A little further around the Slea Head Drive is Dunquin Pier (Cé Dhún Chaoin) with its distinctive steep and winding walkway and sublime views over a glittering emerald bay. For centuries, the pier was the lifeline connecting the small community of Great Blasket Island to the mainland. It’s a muscle-busting walk down the path to the pier and back up.

At the top of the walkway there’s a café that sells incredible brownies (according to the sign), and a booking office for Blasket Island tours and ferries. Sadly, both had their shutters down when we were here.

The last (well-earned) stop today is a visit to a traditional pub that’s been in the same family for more than 100 years.

We pre-booked a brewery tour and tasting at Tiġ Bhric Pub and West Kerry Brewery, and thoroughly enjoyed learning about Ireland’s first microbrewery founded by a woman. The beers are brewed with a deep connection to the land and water from the brewery’s own well.

Back in the pub, our tour finished with tastings of some outstanding brews and a chat with the owner – a great way to finish the day. Next time, we may stay the night at the pub and settle in for dinner over a few pints!

If you’re not into beer but still fancy a tipple, the Dingle Distillery might be a good alternative at this point. Otherwise head back to Dingle to check in to your stay before exploring this lively harbour town.

Where to stay in Dingle

As the main tourist hub on an extremely busy Peninsula, Dingle is packed with great pubs, live music, seafood restaurants and colourful shopfronts. It’s a very popular base for exploring the Wild Atlantic Way with a decent range of accommodation that books out well in advance during peak season – and even sometimes outside peak.

The following options get consistently good reviews:

• Good value: Seaview Heights – This adults-only B&B in Dingle has comfortable, clean rooms with sea or city views, just a short (uphill) walk from the town centre. There’s a decent breakfast on offer, service is extremely friendly, and free on-street parking is available.
• Mid-range: Dingle Harbour Lodge B&B – Centrally located by Dingle Marina, this lodge offers clean, spacious rooms with modern bathrooms. The property has a large patio with harbour views and there’s free on-site parking for guests.
• Spend a bit more: An Capall Dubh B&B Dingle – Located in the heart of Dingle, this family run B&B is just a short walk from shops, pubs, and the waterfront. With spacious rooms, garden, outdoor seating, delicious breakfasts, and secure on-site parking it’s a great central option.

Day 6: Dingle to Doolin via the Kilkee Cliffs

Highlights: Gallarus Oratory | Connor Pass | Loop Head | Kilkee Cliffs
Total driving distance: appx. 260km (160 miles)
Total driving time: appx. 4.5 hours
Overnight: Doolin

Explore the sights on the route from Dingle to Loop Head

An early start today finds us a few kilometres from Dingle town at Gallarus Oratory, a remarkable early Christian stone church that has stood for over a thousand years.

Considered to be one of the best preserved early Christian churches in the country, the oratory’s dry-stone corbeled construction is so precise that it remains watertight, even in the wild Atlantic weather.

The site is managed by the OPW and access is free via a public right of way path with a small pull-in for a couple of cars. You can also access the oratory for €5 via a privately-run visitor centre with a large car park, toilets and café. At the centre, you can watch an informative video about the site before visiting.

There are a couple of other nearby historic sites in the area that are worth seeking out before making your way off the Dingle Peninsula.

A few minutes up the road from Gallarus Oratory, you’ll find the very low-key ringfort monument of Cathair Deargain. There’s no car park but you can pull off the road and have a quick wander around this peaceful, out-of-the-way site with its five connected circular rooms in a lonely field.

A little further on you’ll find Cill Maoilchéadair, a small 12th-century stone church with some interesting decorative features, along with an Ogham stone and carved sundial in the graveyard.

From here, take the scenic drive up to Connor Pass, one of Ireland’s highest mountain roads. The winding ascent is narrow and dramatic, with incredible views back over Dingle and the surrounding peaks.

Heading further north and off the Dingle Peninsula, the road takes you up a very rough, narrow track to Carrigafoyle Castle, an imposing 15th-century tower house that once guarded the Shannon Estuary.

Climb to the top for views before continuing on to Tarbert, where you’ll take the Shannon Ferry across to County Clare – a short but scenic crossing that avoids a long inland detour. You can find timetables and buy tickets on the Shannon Ferries website.

Make a circuit of Loop Head

There’s an Aldi in nearby Kilrush if you want to pick up lunch to go, otherwise the popular Long Dock Pub & Restaurant is only half-an-hour’s drive from the ferry.

It may not have the mountains of Kerry and Dingle, but the Loop Head peninsula has a striking coastal geology of folded, upturned, bent and striated rock, with wonderful cliffs, dramatic sea stacks and far fewer visitors.

At the end of the peninsula, you’ll find Loop Head Lighthouse which is usually open for tours until 3pm (we just missed out on the day we visited).

If the weather is behaving and you feel up for a walk, the 1.8km Loop Head Trail provides fabulous views of the rugged coastline here, along with plenty of opportunities to see guillemots, black-backed and common gulls, fulmars, cormorants and razorbills nesting on the sea stacks during breeding season.

Allow about 90 minutes to complete the loop, which we’d suggest taking clockwise to avoid a stiff uphill climb at the end. The route takes you around the headland and past one of Ireland’s many ‘EIRE’ signs (huge letters set out in whitewashed stone around the coast during WWII to alert pilots they were passing over neutral Irish territory).

Kilkee Cliff Walk

From Loop Head it will take a little over half-an-hour to drive to the parking area at Diamond Rocks Café near Kilkee,where the stunning Kilkee Cliff Walk starts.

Along the way though (just past Bellia on the map), follow the Wild Atlantic Way sign to exit the R487 towards Castle Point, allowing you to hug the coast road and make the best of the opportunities to stop and view cliffside lookouts along the way.

From the café, the Kilkee Cliff Walk runs 2.8km each way (5.6km in total) along some of the most impressive cliffs of this Ireland road trip.

The views are wow right from the start, so do as much or as little of the walk as you want, but as you head further on, the impressive track rises to a high point overlooking a lovely bay and a jagged sea stack teeming with nesting gulls during the summer months.

Overnight in Doolin

If you’re anything like us, you’ll be on a bit of a nature high after walking the cliff path, so after driving to Doolin (another hour on the road) and checking into your accommodation, head out in search of dinner, and some of the traditional music and craic this lively little village is known for.

Doolin’s reputation for live trad music means the pubs can get very busy in the evenings, especially in peak season. We had to book in advance to secure a table for dinner at McGann’s though we understand some places are first come, first served. If you’re keen to lock in a table at a pub, call ahead and check.

Where to stay in Doolin

With its close proximity to Kilkee, the Cliffs of Moher, the Burren, and the Aran Islands, and its reputation for good pubs and traditional music, there’s no surprise Dollin is a popular place to stay. As a result, the accommodation in the area, particularly the places closer to town, can book out quickly.

We stayed at Harvest Moon B&B, set in a peaceful location around 5 minutes or so drive from Doolin. We stayed in a decent sized, spotlessly clean room with ensuite bathroom and a lovely view over the countryside. The property has a cosy shared kitchen and dining room with basic supplies like milk, bread and breakfast cereals. There’s off-street parking for guests in front of the property and the owner was incredibly welcoming and helpful.

The following options get consistently good reviews:

• Good value: Oar Restaurant and Rooms – Bright, comfortable rooms with modern amenities, just a short walk from Doolin’s pubs and restaurants. The property has a well-regarded restaurant, free on-site parking and very friendly, welcoming hosts.
• Mid-range: West Haven House – Spacious, spotless rooms with comfortable beds and a superb breakfast, just a short walk from town. Its peaceful, well-located, and has friendly hosts and plenty of free on-site parking.
• Spend a bit more: Fiddle + Bow Hotel – Boutique hotel in the heart of Doolin offering spacious, modern rooms with comfortable beds, and complimentary on-site parking. There’s an excellent on-site restaurant that also serves a mean breakfast.

Day 7: Doolin to Galway via the Cliffs of Moher

Highlights: Cliffs of Moher | Caherconnell Stone Fort | Poulnabrone Dolmen | Aillwee Burren Experience
Total driving distance: appx. 100km (60 miles)
Total driving time: appx. 2 hours
Overnight: Galway

Cliffs of Moher

We’re halfway through our Wild Atlantic Way road trip, so it’s fitting that this morning’s itinerary is dedicated to one of the route’s most iconic attractions: the Cliffs of Moher.

There are a variety of ways to experience the cliffs depending on time and level of fitness, so we’ll lay out a few options.

By far the easiest option, with the least walking, is to drive straight to the Cliffs of Moher Experience. Here, you can check out the visitor centre exhibitions and then walk to some of the key lookout points, including O’Brien’s Tower and those iconic Cliffs of Moher views.

It gets very busy here and entry is expensive, but you can prepay online for €7 per person, a saving of €5 each. There’s some debate about what this fee actually covers, but according to the official website, it includes parking, as well as access to the visitor centre, the paved pathways and lookouts surrounding the visitor centre, O’Brien’s Tower, an audio guide and app.

The options below involve the Cliffs of Moher public coastal trail, which is currently limited by closures – see the box and link above. We’ll keep an eye on this and update if anything changes.

Hiking the Cliffs of Moher

For the more energetic, there’s a stunning clifftop trail that runs for 14km all the way between Doolin and Hags Head. While plenty of people do the whole thing, many opt for the 8km stretch between Doolin and the Cliffs of Moher Experience before getting a taxi back to Doolin. Ask at your accommodation about the best way to arrange a taxi in advance.

As we’d heard the southern section of the cliffs offered a little more drama, we started our day with an early morning drive to the privately-owned Liscannor Walk Parking, where we paid €5 (cash) to park for the day. There’s an honesty box but the owner popped out to greet us and collect the fee when we went.  

It’s a decent 6km hike from here to the Cliffs of Moher Experience, but you’ll be rewarded with absolutely stunning views, plenty of birdlife, and fewer people (though numbers definitely increase the closer you get to the visitor centre). You can either pre-organise a taxi back to the carpark, or do as we did and walk back (it definitely feels longer in reverse)!

Allow 3-4 hours to enjoy the walk and/or explore the viewpoints and have a look around the exhibits at the Cliffs of Moher Experience.

Cliffs of Moher from the water

If you want to see the cliffs from the Atlantic you could opt for a Cliffs of Moher Boat Tour from Doolin pier, located just west of town. Viewing the cliffs from the water was certainly a unique experience, however it’s worth noting these tours are extremely popular and can get crowded (the boat we got on was returning from the islands half-full, so we didn’t get the best views).

If you have more time to spare, you could combine seeing the cliffs from the water with a visit to the nearby Aran islands. The full day Aran Islands & Cliffs of Moher Cruise departs from Galway City, and heads to Inis Mór before cruising back via the Cliffs of Moher. You’ll get more than four hours on Inis Mór to explore the island’s sandy beaches, ancient stone forts, and experience some of the traditional Irish culture the islands are famed for.

History, caves and raptors in the Burren

From Liscannor, make your way into the unique limestone landscape of the Burren to visit another extremely well-preserved ancient ringfort.

While Caherconnell Stone Fort isn’t quite as imposing as Staigue, this one hasn’t had any restorations and is an active archaeological site. We did a one-hour tour with an extremely passionate archaeologist that works on the site and loved the experience.

It’s a pretty slick operation with a nice café, so grab some lunch here if you’re hungry and decide if you’re tempted by the sheepdog demonstrations also on offer.

Just up the road, you’ll find the ancient megalithic Poulnabrone Dolmen. This portal tomb is over 5,000 years old and is surrounded by the Burren’s distinctive clint-and-grike limestone terrain.

Today’s penultimate stop is the excellent Aillwee Burren Experience, where you can enjoy a tour through the fascinating underground chambers of Aillwee Cave, once a den for prehistoric bears.

The highlight for us though, is a visit to the Birds of Prey Centre, where you can see a variety of local and international raptors up close and in flight, and learn about the centre’s global conservation efforts. The feathery beauties here are all rescues or born in captivity and would struggle to survive in the wild; today they’re ambassadors for all birds of prey, many species of which are in decline.

With the day’s adventures wrapped up, jump back in the car for the hour-long final stretch to the brilliant city of Galway.

On arrival in Galway, check in to your stay and head into town for some evening fun. We love this vibrant town – it’s packed with pubs, great food and lively streets and makes a perfect base for the next two nights.

Where to stay in Galway

When it comes to accommodation, Galway offers plenty of choice; whether in the city centre, the Latin Quarter, Salthill or further afield, there are hostels, hotels, B&Bs and guesthouses to suit most budgets. The following options get consistently good reviews:

• Good value: Madison House – Modern, well-equipped property in a central location just steps from Eyre Square and Galway Train Station, offering clean, comfortable rooms and easy self-check-in. There are both street, and paid parking options available, including at the train station.
• Mid-range: The Victoria Hotel – Centrally located in Eyre Square, the hotel has modern, spacious rooms with comfortable beds and easy access to the bus and train stations. There’s a full-service bar, and restaurant, and the hotel offers discounted parking at the nearby Q-Park.
• Mid-range: Nox Hotel Galway – Modern hotel located 20 minutes’ walk north of the city centre with comfortable rooms and an open plan bar and restaurant. Guests enjoy complimentary parking on site.
• Spend a bit more: Glenlo Abbey Hotel – A luxurious 5-star hotel set on stunning grounds overlooking Lough Corrib, just 4km from Galway city centre. The hotel has spacious rooms, excellent dining options and a range of activities such as golf and falconry.

We stayed at Woodhaven Manor, located just 20 minutes on the bus from the centre of Galway. The property is run by a friendly host who met us at the property and offered lots of useful suggestions for exploring the city. Our room was spotless and comfy with a decent ensuite bathroom. There’s convenient parking in front of property and buses to the city operate frequently from across the road.

Day 8: Explore the Burren and Galway City

Highlights: Mullaghmore Loop Hike | The Burren | Galway City
Total driving distance: appx. 150km (95 miles)
Total driving time: appx. 3 hours
Overnight: Galway

Hike the Burren

Make an early start today and head south from Galway into the Burren National Park, parking at Gortlecka Crossroads for a Burren hike.

We enjoyed plenty of epic walks on our own Wild Atlantic Way itinerary, but perhaps the most unique of these was through the otherworldly glacio-karst terraces of the Burren in County Clare.

Carved by ice sheets more than a million years ago, you’ll need decent footwear to navigate the uneven ‘clints and grikes’ that define this starkly beautiful landscape.

There are several well-marked, colour-coded trails of varying length and difficulty to choose from, all setting out from the parking spot at Gortlecka Crossroads. We hiked the challenging, 7.5km Mullaghmore Loop Blue Route, which took us up and around the sweeping, 180-metre-high Mullaghmore hill that dominates the area. Plan to spend 2-3 hours here depending on the hike.

Explore the Burren’s highlights

After the hike, head to the Burren Visitor Centre in Kilfenora to dive a little deeper into the region’s history, geology and unique ecosystem in this modern, well-laid-out exhibition space. In the grounds of nearby Kilfenora Cathedral, you’ll find the intricately carved Kilfenora High Crosses, well worth a quick visit.

From here, today’s drive takes you through some of the most unique scenery in the country – there’s a reason the Burren is right up there on our list of Ireland highlights.

Pull over at Poulsallagh Lookout to appreciate the wild, rocky stretch of coast where the Burren meets the sea. A little further along the R477, visit Fanore Beach, a long stretch of golden sand backed by dunes. It’s popular with surfers and a great spot for a quick stroll.

Further north, pause again at Murrooghtoohy Lookout. This is another striking coastal viewpoint where that quintessential Burren limestone pavement extends right down into the Atlantic.

It’s around an hour’s drive from Murrooghtoohy Lookout to Galway, where you’ll have the afternoon to explore this fantastic city. Along the way, however, there are a few more notable sites that are worth a quick stop if time allows.

Pretty Ballyvaughan, set on the water and surrounded by the Burren’s bare mountains makes a nice stop, as does the crumbling ruin of Muckinish West Tower House.

Further along, you’ll pass the moody ruins of Corcomroe Abbey and nearby Flaggy Shore, where you can see another example of the Burren’s striking coastline. Finally, you’ll pass Dunguaire Castle, a picture-perfect tower house on the shores of Galway Bay.

Get to know Galway

Back in Galway, the rest of the day is all about exploring a city we’ll always have a soft spot for as, many moons ago, we got engaged not far from here.

You can easily cover the main sites of Galway town in a few hours on foot, starting at Eyre Square and wandering through the laneways to the River Corrib. On the way, you’ll see plenty of street art, historic buildings, and medieval relics like the Spanish Arch, a remnant of the wall that once protected the town.

Head into the quadrangle at the Uni of Galway for a Hogwarts moment. Then into the hallowed nave of stone and wood in nearby Galway Cathedral, Europe’s youngest.

Cross the Wolfe Tone Bridge to the West End for a more local feel, and enjoy a stroll along the river to Nimmo’s Pier, looking back across to the colourful houses of The Long Walk.

Finish up in one of the town’s characterful drinking establishments. Whether you opt for Guinness and trad music somewhere like Tigh Neachtain, or sample the range of local and international craft beer at The Salt House, choose your poison and embrace Galway’s famous nightlife.

Galway walking tours

If you want a deeper understanding of the city with the benefit of a local to guide the way, consider a walking tour of Galway. Options range from private to group and self-guided tours.

• Welcome to Galway Walking Tour: This 75-minute small group tour operates twice daily from Eyre Square. You’ll explore Galway’s lively streets with a local guide, uncovering the city’s history, music, culture and traditions along the way.
• Food and Culture Walking Tour with Tastings: Enjoy strolling through the city’s medieval streets while sampling traditional dishes, local tipples and live entertainment, and uncovering the stories behind Galway’s culinary and cultural scene on this two-and-a-half-hour small group tour.
• Old Town Self-Guided Walking Tour: With twenty stops and packed with history, local stories, and fun challenges, this self-guided smartphone tour lets you discover Galway at your own pace.

All of these tours get great reviews from other travellers and offer secure booking and free cancellation.

Day 9: Galway to Westport via the Sky Road and Connemara National Park

Highlights: Dog’s Bay and Gurteen Beach | Sky Road Loop Drive | Connemara National Park |Killary Harbour | Doolough Valley
Total driving distance: appx. 240km (150 miles)
Total driving time: appx. 5 hours
Overnight: Westport

Galway coast and the Sky Road

Hopefully there are no sore heads after your night out in Galway: it’s an early start today.

Make your way around Galway Bay with the Aran Islands in the distance on your left, until you get to Inverin where you can fill up with petrol and pick up coffee and breakfast to go.

First sightseeing stop of the day is Trá an Dóilín, a striking coral beach with crystal-clear water where we found a few hardy locals braving the chill with a swim.

An hour further around the coast, you’ll find Dog’s Bay and Gurteen beaches – an absolutely stunning curve of white sand and aqua water, separated by grassy dunes that were covered with yellow and white wildflowers when we visited in May.

This lovely find was an unexpected pleasure for us and makes for a really nice stroll (or a quick swim if you’re up for it). Unsurprisingly, this is another spot with a strong claim for being one of the country’s best beaches.

Back on the road, follow the R341 around the rocky coastline with distant mountains for company until you reach the cute town of Clifden.

From there, take the Sky Road, a winding 16km coastal loop drive that serves up magic views over Clifden Bay and its offshore islands.

There’s an upper and lower Sky Road. We opted for the high route to make the best of the views, continuing all the way down a narrow 1.5km single-track road to the end of the peninsula and Eyrephort Beach.

From here, complete the Sky Road loop and head on to Connemara National Park. You can either blast straight there along the N59, or detour via the quiet coastal route with views of Omey Island, a journey of an additional 15 minutes or so.

Stretch your legs in Connemara National Park

To the west of Galway stretches the Connemara, a wild and ruggedly beautiful land where narrow roads hug still lakes beneath the towering mountains of the Twelve Bens and Maumturk ranges.

Head to the National Park Visitor Centre and grab a bite to eat before heading off on the Diamond Hill Loop Trail.

We opted for the lower (blue) trail, a gorgeous 3km walk past fields with horses and foals, climbing a mixture of gravel, stone steps, and boardwalk across bogland, with epic views all around.

You can expect the blue route to take around an hour, and the upper 6.6km red trail to take between 2-3 hours.

Aran Islands

The Connemara is a gateway to the Aran Islands of Inishmore, Inishmaan and Inisheer.

Gaelic is still spoken on these small, rocky outcrops and Ireland’s old traditions flourish.

You’ll need at least a day if you want to explore one or more of the islands, either on a tour or independently by ferry. There’s a popular day tour from Galway that combines a few hours on Inis Mór with cruising back to Galway via the Cliffs of Moher.

If it’s a must for you on this itinerary, consider swapping out yesterday’s or today’s activities with a trip to the Aran Islands instead.

We’ve yet to make it over to the islands – yet another reason to come back!

From Connemara to Mayo

A short hop from the national park you’ll find Kylemore Abbey, an impressive lakeside estate at the foot of a huge mountain. This is a key stop on the coach tour route and it was heaving with people when we arrived. We were running low on time anyway, so we stopped briefly for a quick pic and moved on.

From the abbey, the N59 takes a decidedly dramatic turn with lough-and-mountain views, accompanied by outcrops of yellow and purple wildflowers en route to stunning Killary Harbour.

If you haven’t eaten yet or you’re up for an afternoon coffee stop (or just anyway), check out the Misunderstood Heron. It sits at the head of the harbour’s 16km-long fjord, one of just three glacial fjords that exist in Ireland, and our last stop in Galway. The views are magnificent, and if you have the time, there are sightseeing cruises up the fjord that depart from just down the road.

From here, drive around the fjord and head into Mayo, stopping for a quick wander at picturesque Aasleagh Falls before heading into the hauntingly beautiful Doolough Valley.

We weren’t planning to come this way but cruising through the remote, windswept and moody mountain-and-lake route was an unexpected highlight and we highly recommend it. Be sure to pause at the Wild Atlantic Way Discovery Point at the northern end to learn about the tragic events that took place here during the Great Famine of the mid-1800s.

If you’re a particular fan of old stones like Dan is, there’s a little-visited Neolithic burial site on the way to Westport – Srahwee Wedge Tomb. It sits forgotten beside the road with views across Clew Bay.

Otherwise, head straight to Old Head for a lovely sand beach, popular with kayakers and paddle boarders, with great views towards Croagh Patrick.

It’s been a huge day, but we hope after checking into your stay for tonight you can muster enough energy to head into Westport for the night. It’s a lively town packed with traditional pubs, great restaurants, and a friendly atmosphere.

We had a great night at Matt Molloy’s (of The Chieftan’s fame) – the Guinness went down very well as we enjoyed some local live music.

Where to stay in Westport

You’ll find a good mix of accommodation in and around Westport, with something to suit most budgets. In the town centre there are guesthouses, B&Bs, and hotels within easy walking distance of pubs, restaurants, and the lively harbour area. The following options get consistently good reviews:

• Good value: Westport Heights – Family-friendly accommodation with stunning views of Croagh Patrick and the town, which is a ten-minute walk away. Rooms are comfortable, and both a complimentary continental buffet breakfast and on-site parking are included in the rate.
• Mid-range: The Mariner, Westport – Centrally located near to all Westport’s bars and restaurants, this boutique hotel offers modern, spacious rooms with large, comfy beds and rainfall showers. Both street, and cheap public parking are available nearby.
• Spend a bit more: Westport Plaza Hotel, Spa & Leisure – Located in the centre of town, this award-winning 4-star hotel offers spacious rooms with king-sized beds, Italian marble bathrooms, and spa baths. The hotel features a health club, pool, spa, and restaurant – and both parking and a buffet breakfast are included in the rate.

We stayed at Moorings Greenway in nearby Newport, around a ten-minute drive from Westport. Our compact, simple ensuite room was comfortable enough, with views of the Newport River. There’s a shared kitchen and lounge, and free, off-road parking in front of the property. The friendly host even helped organise a taxi for us to Westport for a night out with friends.

Day 10: Westport to Ballina via Achill Island

Highlights: Ashleam Bay Lookout | Minaun Heights Lookout | Slievemore Deserted Village | Downpatrick Head
Total driving distance: appx. 270km (170 miles)
Total driving time: appx. 5 hours
Overnight: Ballina

Tour the Atlantic Drive on Achill Island

Get on the road nice and early today to make the best of the Atlantic Drive, another epic mini road trip within the Wild Atlantic Way. The Atlantic Drive winds along the southern shore of Achill Island, now one of our favourite west coast destinations.

If you’ve watched The Banshees of Inisherin, you might recognise this spectacular sweep of bare mountains, sparkling beaches, rocky coastline and narrow roads edged with grazing sheep.

Today’s first stop is Cloghmore Pier and nearby Grace O’Malley’s Tower, around an hour around the coast from Westport. This 16th-century stronghold of the legendary pirate queen stands watch over Clew Bay, with a Wild Atlantic Way Discovery Point just up the road providing some useful historical context.

The road rises slightly as you head onwards towards your first glimpse of Achill Island’s glittering western coastline. As you round the corner, pull into the parking area on the right; this is the filming location of Jonjo’s Pub in the Banshees of Inisherin. For those that are interested, there’s a filming location trail to follow.

Further along, don’t miss the Discovery Point at Ashleam Bay, a magic viewpoint overlooking a horseshoe-shaped cove edged by rugged white cliffs.

For a birds eye view of the island, head up to Minaun Heights. On a clear day, it serves up 360-degree views of Achill’s dramatic coastline.

The cairn at the very top looks deceptively close from the parking area near the radio towers, but don’t be fooled. It’s around 1.5km each way, over rubble and peat that’s spongy and waterlogged in places – expect the return hike to take around an hour. The views are 100% worth it.

If you’ve got a packed lunch, we’d highly recommend eating at the carpark overlooking the beautiful curve of white sand at Keem Beach.

Alternatively, you’re just up the road from the most westerly pub in Europe, so lunch at Gielty’s Bar and Restaurant may well be in order.

Afterwards, head over to the haunting stone ruins of Slievemore Deserted Village. Archaeological evidence suggests this area was inhabited for around 5,000 years. Today, what remains of the 19th-century stone village is slowly being reclaimed by nature.

Research is ongoing as to what caused the village to be abandoned, although the Great Famine is thought to be a likely candidate.

Ballycroy National Park and northern Mayo

We found it a tough ask to move on from Achill Island and we’ll definitely be heading back to spend more time here. But there’s more to see today, so make your way off the island and drive half-an-hour north until you come to the Claggan Mountain Coastal Trail.

If you’re doing ok for time, the coastal trail is a nice and easy 2km coastal boardwalk over bogland into Ballycroy National Park. Along the way there are interps panels about the history and ecology of the landscape. On the shoreline, look out for the impressive tree stumps emerging from the bog, ancient preserved remnants of the forests that grew here thousands of years ago.  

From here, head into northern Mayo where, on the shores of the North Atlantic, you’ll find Portacloy Beach. While the 13km Benwee Head Trail might be a tad adventurous for this time of day, it’s still possible to walk up to see the EIRE sign and enjoy the expansive views.

For the history nerds like us though, another option is to head to nearby Ceide Fields. This intriguing cliff-top neolithic site was home to Ireland’s first farmers and has the oldest known stone-walled field system in the world. While the expansive site itself requires a bit of imagination, the visitor centre is very good; it also houses a 4,000-year-old pine tree found preserved in a nearby bog.

Our final stop today is at Downpatrick Head, a dramatic promontory carpeted in unusual spongey moss, where the land falls away sharply into the ocean.

The distinctive Dún Briste sea stack draws plenty of visitors seeking the perfect sunset photo, but the surrounding cliffs are equally impressive, with a soundtrack courtesy of razorbills, guillemots, fulmars, gulls, and the occasional bird of prey.

Finally, head down to Ballina, a convenient overnight stop for this leg of our Wild Atlantic Way itinerary.

Where to stay in Ballina

Set on the banks of the River Moy, the busy market town of Ballina is Ireland’s salmon capital, and you’re bound to spot an angler or two casting a line in the rushing river between February and September.

Ballina is also the jump off point for exploring north and east County Mayo and there’s a fair range of accommodation options. As with other towns, staying centrally means you may be looking at paid public parking.

The following stays get consistently good reviews:

• Good value: Heyday Hostel Ballina – A newly furnished, well-located hostel with clean facilities and friendly staff. Tidy common areas and clean, basic rooms though light sleepers might need earplugs; paid public parking available nearby.
• Good value: Quay Lane Studio Apartment – Located just 2km from Ballina, this bright, clean and modern self-contained apartment has plenty of space, helpful hosts and free on-site parking.
• Mid-range: Hallahan’s – Right in the town centre, offers a warm welcome and spotlessly clean rooms with traditional décor; park on-site for a small daily fee.
• Spend a bit more: Ballina Manor Hotel – Comfortable hotel with friendly staff and good-sized rooms, located between the River Moy and the town centre; there’s a bar and restaurant on-site, and limited parking (if full, there’s a public car park nearby).

As we were spending longer in this region when we travelled this route, we opted to overnight at a peaceful homestay with sea views around halfway between Downpatrick Head and Ballina. It’s not currently taking bookings but regardless, it was very rural and with hindsight, we’d have preferred to stay in or closer to Ballina.

Day 11: Ballina to Donegal via Sligo

Highlights: Aughris Head | Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery | Benbulben Mountain | Gleniff Horseshoe Drive | Mullaghmore Head
Total driving distance: appx. 180km (110 miles)
Total driving time: appx. 3.5 hours
Overnight: Donegal

Set off early from Ballina to cross into County Sligo, and our first stop of the day, Aughris Head. Park up near the Discovery Point. If you fancy starting the day with a walk, there’s a beautiful 4km coastal path around the headland with panoramic views over Sligo Bay towards Sliabh Liag.

Next, a short hop around the N59 will bring you to Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery. This is one of Ireland’s largest collections of Neolithic tombs and it’s on the tentative list for World Heritage recognition.

Carrowmore is an ambient, moody site to wander around. Over 35 tombs dot the landscape here, dating back 6,000 years. There’s a small but informative visitor centre with helpful staff. There’s a small entry fee, free with the OPW Heritage Card.

Carrowmore is currently closed while the visitor centre is renovated. The site is due to reopen in May 2025. See the Heritage Ireland website for updates.

As you walk around the site, you may be able to spot a cairn on a distant hill. This is said to be the (unexcavated) tomb of the legendary warrior Queen Maeve. With more time, there’s a fairly strenuous 6km trail up to the tomb, serving up sweeping views of the surrounding landscape.

From Carrowmore, it’s only a few minutes’ drive to Sligo, a charming and compact town on the banks of the Garavogue River.

We parked at the pay and display carpark opposite Sligo Abbey, which we visited before having a wander along Sligo’s pretty riverside walk. We also took the opportunity to pick up coffee and a packed lunch for later.

From Sligo, head to Glencar Waterfall, a picturesque 50-foot cascade. It’s set in a wooded valley near Glencar Lough, where you’ll find expansive views towards table-topped Benbulben Mountain.

Nearby, the Benbulben Forest Walk traverses an easy, well-marked trail through woodlands leading to views of the striking cliffs of Benbulben and the Atlantic beyond. We’d have loved to do this 5.6km walk but unfortunately the weather moved in. Allow around an hour-and-a-half to complete the trail.

Around 15 minutes away, you’ll find the long stretch of sand at Streedagh Beach, a great spot for an all-encompassing view of Benbulben (when the weather allows). The beach is also known for its Spanish Armada links, with several ill-fated ships wrecked here in 1588.

From Streedagh, take the scenic Gleniff Horseshoe Drive, a dramatic 10km driving loop through a valley surrounded by towering mountains. Or so we hear; sadly the entire valley was draped in cloud when we drove through.

A short drive from the valley is another impressive neolithic site, Creevykeel Court Tomb. This is a large wedge-shaped rock pile with a burial chamber. It’s free and just off the main road.

We’d personally planned to walk the nearby 4.5km Mullaghmore Head Loop on this afternoon, but again, the weather had other ideas. Instead, we opted to drive around the small peninsula, stopping at several points along the way. The poor weather actually made it all the more wild and dramatic so we reckon it’s worth a visit whatever the skies are doing.

En route to Donegal, you’ll also pass the Fairy Bridges at Bundoran. We could barely see through the windscreen for the rain by the time we passed through here, but if you have better luck with the weather, there’s a 30-minute, 2.9km cliff trail to view the arches.

After checking into our Donegal stay, we felt like the best antidote for the vile weather was to find a local pub, grab a pint of the black stuff and listen to some music. Not that any excuse is needed in this charming, buzzy little town.

Where to stay in Donegal

Donegal is a lively little town at the mouth of Donegal Bay. It’s known for its historic castle, charming harbour and easy-going atmosphere. It’s also a great base for exploring the wider county, with rugged coastline, beaches and mountains close by.

There’s a solid range of accommodation in and around town, including guesthouses, B&Bs and hotels. Many places are within walking distance of the town’s pubs, shops and restaurants. The trade-off with staying in town though is that you may need to find parking – the street parking and parking lots around town are pay and display between 9am and 6pm except Sundays.

The following options get consistently good reviews:

• Good value: Robin’s Nest – This cosy, quiet apartment has all you need for a self-catered stay, though it’s only a 5-minute drive or cab ride to town; the host is friendly and helpful and there’s free on-site parking.
• Mid-range: Donegal House – Fully restored townhouse right in the centre of town, spotlessly clean and comfortable, doesn’t include brekky or parking but gets top marks for convenience.
• Spend a bit more: The Cliffe at the Quay – Stylish, spacious, modern suites with private kitchenettes (some also have balconies and water views) in a guest house by the River Eske, just 400 metres from the town centre; free on-site parking.

We’re not including the place we stayed in Donegal as this was, unfortunately, the one stay of our entire journey through Ireland that didn’t hit the mark. We’ve since learned it’s not currently taking reservations.

Day 12: Donegal to Ardara via Sliabh Liag

Highlights: Donegal Castle | Muckross Head | Sliabh Liag
Total driving distance: appx. 120km (75 miles)
Total driving time: 2.5 hours
Overnight: Ardara

Road trip fatigue? No such thing on the Wild Atlantic Way. You’re on the home run now and you’re probably thinking you’ve seen the very best of Ireland’s west coast. But you’re about to meet the road from Donegal to Ardara.

Start today at a more leisurely pace with a wander through Donegal town and along the River Eske to the ambient Abbey ruins by the water. Then head to Donegal Castle, which was built in the 15th century by the O’Donnell clan. There’s a small entry fee; it’s free if you have an OPW card.

Try to get on the road by 11am and head around Donegal Bay to Mountcharles Pier, a popular spot for swimming and fishing. If you feel like it, pick up a coffee from nearby Salthill Cabin and enjoy the view.

Further along the coast, you’ll drive through Killybegs, Irelands largest fishing port (and a good bet for some fresh seafood), before moving into more mountainous terrain along the coast.

Fintra Beach is another golden crescent of dune-backed sand. It’s a perfect spot to stretch your legs and break up the journey.

From here, it’s a lovely 15-minute drive to this morning’s highlight, the Wild Atlantic Way Discovery Point at Muckross Head. The views over Trá na nGlór Beach and Muckross Head are top notch.

If you’re going ok for time, it’s worth driving back down to the end of the headland where you can park up and take a short walk out to the historic EIRE sign.

Sliabh Liag Cliffs

Next, it’s on to one of our very favourite Ireland highlights, Sliabh Liag (Slieve League). Here, you’ll find some of the highest sea cliffs in Europe and – we reckon – some of the most unforgettable panoramas of the trip.

You can park for free at the Slieve League Cliffs Centre and take a shuttle to the cliffs (if they’re running). Or pay €15 to park for the day at the Slieve League Car Park, a further 1.6km up the road towards the cliffs.

From the car park, it’s an easy 2km walk to the main Sliabh Liag viewing platform. The cliffs here rise more than 600 metres above the turbulent Atlantic; that’s three times higher than the Cliffs of Moher!

This is a great spot for lunch and if you haven’t brought your own, we highly recommend a lobster roll from one of the food trucks up here. They’re pricey but fresh and tasty.

There are a number of challenging, but no doubt rewarding hikes in the area, including a truly epic 11.4km trail all the way to Malin Beg. Sadly, we only had time for the short climb up the rocky path to the Bunglas Viewpoint, but that alone was worth it – the vistas are extraordinary.

From Sliabh Liag, make a detour towards Malin Beg, keeping an eye out for Cloghanmore Megalithic Tomb on the way. It’s a large tomb located in a sheep field just off the road, along a narrow path. Access is free and there’s a small parking place.

Malin Beg itself is known for Silver Strand Beach, a perfect horseshoe-shaped bay framed by towering cliffs. A steep stairway leads down to the sand, but even from above, it’s a breathtaking view.

We’re nearing the end of today’s road tripping now, but there are a couple of brief stops on the way to our base tonight in Ardara if you can muster up the energy.

From Malin Beg, take the winding mountain road inland through Glengesh Pass. Along the way there’s another outstanding Wild Atlantic Way Discovery Point with sweeping views.

Then head towards Ardara, but after briefly hopping onto the N56, take a quick detour down the L2843 along the bay to Assaranca Waterfall, a beautiful cascade that’s easily accessible from the roadside.

Further along, Maghera Beach and Caves are worth a visit at low tide, although be prepared to pay for parking there.

Stop for the night in Ardara, another charming town known for its lively trad music scene and Donegal tweed and knitwear. Nearby Sliabh Liag Distillers has tours available if whiskey and gin are your tipples, otherwise we’d highly recommend the seafood chowder at Nancy’s Bar.

Where to stay in Ardara

Tucked between the mountains and sea, Ardara is a welcoming town that makes a great base for exploring this part of Donegal. While there isn’t a stack of accommodation in the town itself, there’s a good range of B&Bs, guesthouses and self-catering cottages in the broader area, many with views.

The following options get consistently good reviews:

• Good value: Joe and Aggies– A charming B&B with mountain views, located around 6km from Ardara; bathrooms are shared but guests gush about the warm hospitality, comfortable rooms, and spacious common areas, plus there’s free parking.
• Mid-range: Hillhead House – Located just 150m from the centre of town, choose from cosy one-bedroom chalets or spacious, comfy, soundproof rooms in the house; the host gets tops marks as does the breakfast, and parking onsite is free.
• Mid-range: Atlantic Lodge – This B&B in the centre of town offers spotless, stylish rooms and a warm, welcoming atmosphere, with a self-catered continental brekky; there’s free street parking and public parking lots nearby.

We stayed at Ashling House B&B, a warm and welcoming stay tucked away off the main road, around 850m (a 15-minute walk or short drive) from the centre of Ardara. Our room was cozy and clean, the breakfast was great and we were able to park on-site for free.

Day 13: Ardara to Letterkenny

Highlights: Bunbeg Beach Shipwreck | Horn Head | Doe Castle | Great Pollet Sea Arch
Total driving distance: appx. 220km (140 miles)
Total driving time: appx. 4.5 hours
Overnight: Letterkenny

We suggest getting an early start as today is another packed day exploring Donegal’s wild and rugged coastline.

A few minutes outside Ardara, you’ll find a large parking area at the Dolmen Centre near Magheraroarty from where you can walk across the fields to Kilclooney Dolmen.

Despite the slightly unwelcoming signs you’ll pass as you move through the fields towards the dolmen, it’s a tranquil place surrounded by low mountains and guarded by a couple of ponies. The largest megalithic dolmen here has a huge capstone, with a smaller tomb behind. We actually found this site more ambient and impressive than its far more famous cousin, the Poulnabrone Dolmen. 

Just a few kilometres up the road, you’ll be trading ancient history for sweeping coastal views with a quick walk along the beautiful stretch of white sand at Narin-Portnoo Beach, before checking out the lovely sweeping viewpoints to the west of the beach.

Refuel with a coffee from Gracie Mays Cafe in Dungloe before continuing on to one of Donegal’s more unique sights: the Bunbeg Beach Shipwreck. Set in a flat sandy bay with rocky outcrops, at low tide you can walk out to get a closer look at the battered skeleton of the Cara Na Mara, which was wrecked here in the 1970s.

Continuing northeast up the coast towards Horn Head, be sure to stop at the Discovery Point at Bloody Foreland Beach for rugged coastal views towards nearby islands, and the dramatic viewpoints overlooking the impressive stretch of sand at Magheraroarty Beach.

This morning’s highlight is the drive around Horn Head, a sweep of beautiful coastal cliffs scenery. It’s a slightly rough single-track road to get up here, with few layovers, so we’d be hesitant to bring a larger vehicle like a campervan up here. Especially on days blowing a gale like the day we visited.

There are a couple of lovely viewpoints up here, one of which leads to the Horn Head Circular, a 2.9km loop trail up and around the signal station.

Take in the gorgeous views over countryside and mountains as you make your way off the headland and down to the small coastal town of Dunfanaghy. This is a convenient place to stop for lunch, with a good choice of pubs and cafes.

Walk off lunch at Marble Hill Strand, a lovely curve of white sand in sheltered Sheephaven Bay. History calls again at 15th century Doe Castle, just 15 minutes down the road.

Once home to generations of MacSweeney clan chiefs, this imposing stronghold overlooking the bay was a nice surprise, with helpful info panels showing the castle’s different stages of evolution over the centuries. It’s well-preserved, free to enter, and has decent parking.

Stop for a quick walk on the lovely white sand beach just down the road in Downings, before taking on the Rossguill Peninsula Drive, another stunning coastal loop with jaw-dropping sea views.

Finish the day with a drive around Fanad Head, home to a windswept lighthouse, a handful of decent beaches, and the Great Pollet Sea Arch, another unexpected highlight for us. This dramatic natural rock formation sits on a rocky shore with sea caves. It’s reached by a sloping 2km-return trail from the carpark.

Make sure you stop to admire the views at the Discovery Point overlooking Ballymastocker Beach on the way to Letterkenny.

Where to stay in Letterkenny

As the largest town in County Donegal, Letterkenny has decent enough infrastructure and a reasonable range of accommodation. As with everywhere in Ireland, you may need to expand your search map to find more options in the budget range.

The following places get consistently good reviews:

• Good value: Woodview B&B – A peaceful B&B in a pretty rural setting around 5km from town, with clean and comfy rooms, tasty breakfast and welcoming hosts, plus free on-site parking.
• Mid-range: Dillon’s Hotel – Centrally located hotel with friendly staff, clean, comfortable rooms, very good breakfast, an on-site bar and discounted parking next door.
• Spend a bit more: Radisson Blue Hotel – Good location near to shopping and entertainment, modern and spacious rooms, broad breakfast selection and free parking on-site.

We stayed at Ardaobhainn, a lovely B&B around 5-minutes’ drive from town with views over the surrounding countryside. Our room was large and spotless and had plenty of space for luggage, the hosts were very friendly, the brekky delicious, and there was free on-site parking.

Day 14: Letterkenny to Derry via the Inishowen 100

Highlights: Grianan of Aileach | Inishowen 100 Drive | Malin Head | Derry
Total driving distance: appx. 190km (120 miles)
Total driving time: 3.5 hours
Overnight: Derry

We’re on the final stretch of our epic Wild Atlantic Way itinerary! Make the most of your last day today as you follow the famous Inishowen 100 scenic route to the end of this iconic Ireland road trip in Muff, and then carry on to our end point of Derry.

If you didn’t have time to explore Letterkenny yesterday, start the day with a wander through town, checking out St. Eunan’s Cathedral with its lovely outlook over the countryside, before picking up a coffee for the road.

Ten minutes or so after leaving Letterkenny, make a quick stop at the Manorcunningham Viewpoint for views over the rolling Donegal countryside to Lough Swilly.

Continue on to the Grianan of Aileach. This striking stone fort perched high on a hill is incredibly well-preserved, with an intact covered entranceway and internal staircases. The panoramic views stretch right across Lough Swilly and Lough Foyle. Apparently, anyway. We got to see it shrouded in a dense, swirling mist instead, which just added to the intrigue and drama of this ancient place.

If you’re into birding like us, we suggest a slight detour here to the nearby Inch Wildfowl Reserve. This is an important winter spot for migratory birds like the whooping swan and greylag geese.

We visited in spring, and while the winter visitors had left, we encountered sandwich terns, black-headed gulls and grey herons, plus wee charmers like European greenfinch and chaffinch. The site includes an 8km looped path, 3 carparks and a number of purpose-built bird hides.

Drive the famous Inishowen 100

From here, continue on to the Inishowen Peninsula and the Discovery Point at Lisfannon Beach, overlooking a wide swathe of golden sand lapped by the waves of Lough Swilly.

The scenery only gets better as you make your way clockwise around the peninsula to Dunree Head, home to the historic Fort Dunree. Perched on a clifftop, this former military fort now houses a museum showcasing the area’s maritime and military history; there’s a fee for entry.

Next, continue through the spectacular Gap of Mamore, a winding mountain pass with sweeping views of the Atlantic, and of course, a Wild Atlantic Way Discovery Point.

As you descend through the gap, just past the well and grotto, keep an eye out for the small ‘magic road’ sign. We’ve read you can put your car in neutral here and it appears to roll uphill, courtesy of an optical illusion – sadly we couldn’t pause long enough to test the theory, it was a busy day in the gap! If you try it, be safe and look out for other cars.

If you’re feeling peckish, Nancy’s Barn in Ballyliffin is a little over 15 minutes’ drive from the Gap, via a road that passes stunning Tullagh Strand. We can attest to the fact that Nancy’s seafood chowder, a winner of the world seafood chowder championships (it’s a thing!), lives up to the billing.

Roll on to Malin Head, Ireland’s northernmost point. This windswept headland is famous for its dramatic cliffs, rugged sea stacks and, most importantly, as a filming location for Star Wars: The Last Jedi.

Despite the awful weather on the day we visited, we still enjoyed the ruggedly beautiful, well-marked 2.3km walking route here.

If you’re a particular Star Wars devotee, stop at nearby Farren’s Bar for a beer. It’s Ireland’s most northerly pub, and was frequented by Mark Hamill during filming. It’s a very low-key but friendly little boozer, with some Star Wars memorabilia on the walls.

You’re on the very final leg of your Ireland road trip now. Head across the northeast of the Inishowen Peninsula, past Culdaff Beach and Inishowen Head Lighthouse to the Wild Atlantic Way Discovery Point at Stroove Beach.

Take in the views from this lovely strand towards Magilligan Point in Northern Ireland. If you’re feeling particularly energetic, and have 3 hours to spare (unlikely at this point in the day), there’s the 9.3km Inishowen Head Loop Walk.

As we drove down the eastern side of the Inishowen Peninsula, I’ll admit to feeling both exhilarated and not a little sad that our own incredible road trip was coming to an end. Especially when we passed the sign denoting the end of the Wild Atlantic Way, a little past the small village of Muff (Google map).

You could spend your final night here and experience Muff’s welcoming hospitality. Alternatively, continue on to the city of Derry, just ten minutes down the road over the border in Northern Ireland.

This is where we spent the final night of our own epic Wild Atlantic Way road trip. Derry is a vibrant city, fully enclosed by 17th-century city walls, and with a poignant story tightly interwoven with that of Ireland. It’s a great place in which to wind up your journey and reflect on an extraordinary two weeks exploring the very best of Ireland’s magical west coast.

Where to stay in Derry

Derry (also known as Londonderry) is Northern Ireland’s second biggest city, and is packed with history, culture and a buzzing food scene. It’s a great place to base yourself while exploring the north-west of Ireland (as well as Northern Ireland to the east). You’ll find everything from modern hotels overlooking the River Foyle to boutique guesthouses within the historic city walls. If you’re after a budget option, you may need to cast the location net a bit wider.

The following options get consistently good reviews:

• Good value: Bishop Gate BnB – Well-located B&B just a short walk to the city walls and historic sites, with spotless, comfortable rooms, a highly rated breakfast and free on-street parking.
• Mid-range: LegenDerry B&B – A cozy B&B with comfy rooms, friendly host and continental breakfast, within short walking distance of the key sites; parking on street or in a paid lot opposite.
• Spend a bit more: The Ebrington Hotel – Stylish hotel in an ideal location overlooking the Peace Bridge and next to the Walled City Brewery, with spacious, comfortable rooms and excellent service; secure paid parking close by.

We stayed at Hestia House, a lovely guesthouse with cool décor, a well-equipped shared kitchen, even a compact movie room. All rooms have a private bathroom, though some are external and may be down a flight or two of stairs. We nabbed free on-street parking out front but there’s also a paid parking lot at the end of the road if needed. The location is great, around 10-15 minutes’ walk to the Peace Bridge. Check in is at their stylish upmarket hotel around the corner, The Lawrence.  

Reflecting on a Wild Atlantic Way Road Trip

Sitting in a pub in Derry on our final night, we couldn’t help thinking about how the Emerald Isle has completely captured our hearts across a number of visits over the years.

I’m not sure if it’s the Irish blood that runs through both of our veins, the hearty welcome we always receive, or the fact that there’s always something new (or old) to discover – but we’re always excited to return.

Before this trip, we’d frequently talked about driving the Wild Atlantic Way. Having now experienced it, we can say hand-on-heart that it’s truly one of the best road trips we’ve ever done.

It’s the road trip of a lifetime: more than 2,500 kilometres across nine different counties from Kinsale in County Cork through Kerry, Limerick, Clare, Galway, Mayo, Sligo and Lietrim, to Muff in County Donegal.

There’s so much to see along the way it can sometimes feel like an impossible trip to plan. And while you may not end up following our fully-charged Wild Atlantic Way itinerary to the letter, we hope this post is a helpful guide for you – sláinte!

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Sound like your kind of adventure? If you’ve got any questions about this iconic Ireland road trip or driving in Ireland, ask us in the comments below.

If you’re looking for more great road tripping itineraries and adventures, check out our Road Trips page, and our bucket list of 100 ultimate road trips around the world.