Ready for an awesome overnight hike on Sydney’s doorstep? In this post, we cover everything you need to know to plan and enjoy a 2-day hike along the Royal National Park coastal walk, from Bundeena to Otford.
Sydney, with its majestic harbour, iconic sites and stunning beaches, is irrefutably among the world’s most beautiful cities. It’s also a city fringed by nature, with vast swathes of bushland fanning away from the city on three sides, and the wide, blue Pacific Ocean to the east.
Among that bushland is Australia’s first national park – the world’s second oldest, just south of Sydney. It’s here that we recently set out to achieve a hiking goal that’s been on our must-do list for years: the Royal National Park coastal walk. We had a feeling it would be epic, and now we can attest to it: this has to be one of the best hikes in NSW.
The Royal National Park was established all the way back in 1879, a pioneering environmental achievement in an era of industrialisation and rail expansion.
Today the park spans more than 150 square kilometres; a hiker’s playground offering over 100-kilometres of walking trails. The tracks weave paths through eucalypt trees and rainforest, along rugged cliffs and coastal heathland, and past waterfalls, trickling creeks and white, sandy beaches.
The showcase jewel in this Royal crown is the coastal walk, officially known as the Coast Track. It’s a sometimes-challenging, ever-changing 26-kilometre trail along the park’s dramatic coastal edge, between the village of Bundeena and Otford Lookout to the south.
Could you do it in a day? If you’re fit, sure. You could also do it over time with a couple of shorter segments. But to really savour the wild and rugged beauty of this unforgettable hike – by day and under a starry night sky – your best bet is to don a backpack, grab a tent, and hit the trail over 2 days.
Hiking The Coast Track At A Glance
Start & Finish: Bundeena to Otford Lookout
Distance: 26-kilometres one-way (add around 3km more if you’re coming and going by public transport).
Time: 2 days – 18km on Day 1 and 8km on Day 2.
Difficulty: Medium to Hard (as occasional hikers, we can tell you it’s tough in places but very do-able. A reasonable level of fitness is required though, as there are plenty of steps and steep sections).
Day 1 – Bundeena to North Era Campground (18 kilometres)
There are two options for starting the Coast Track at Bundeena: the trackhead at the end of Beachcomber Avenue, or via Jibbon Head, where you can visit some Aboriginal rock engravings.
At a leisurely pace, this 18-kilometre stretch between Bundeena and North Era Campground should take around 7 to 8 hours. Work out how much daylight you’ll have at the time of year you’re hiking, and base your start time around this.
As we were hiking in winter, we had until 4.30pm to get to camp and set up our tents before the sun set. So after dropping our cars at each end of the track (more later on getting to and from the coastal walk), we made sure we were on the trail by 8.30am.
Shortly after setting out, you’ll be fronting up to ocean views, followed by your first glimpses of the sweeping, rugged cliffs that make this hike a panoramic standout.
You’ll be tracing sandstone cliffs and headlands for most of Day 1, where you’ll be fully exposed to the elements – sunscreen, sunnies and a hat are essential.
Prepare to be regaled by some seriously spectacular coastal views for the rest of the day. In addition to dramatic cliff scenes, you’ll pass highlights early on such as the Waterrun, a 16-metre high waterfall crashing into the sea, and Wedding Cake Rock, a slab of blinding white sandstone forming layered tiers on the cliff edge.
Overdoing it for the ‘gram: Wedding Cake Rock used to be accessible, at one point becoming a hugely popular pilgrimage site for Instagrammers. However, a subsequent geological survey showed the rock to be unstable and therefore unsafe, and these days it’s completely fenced off. Walk the perimeter to the far side though, and you’ll be able to see the rock in profile (along with the huge crack running through it).
There are a handful of pristine beaches on this Royal National Park hike, some of which you’ll have almost entirely to yourself. The first stretch you’ll traverse on Day 1 is Marley Beach – a welcoming curve of pale sand edging a turquoise bay.
While we were content to skirt the shore on our winter hike, Marley must be a very tempting stop for a summer dip.
Just be wary, all of Royal’s beaches are pounded by the Pacific, and while some of them are top surfing spots, they can be hazardous for swimming. If you’re keen to get in the water en route, some of the beaches you’ll pass – like Garie Beach and Burning Palms – are patrolled by surf lifesavers during the warmer months.
More jaw-dropping ocean panoramas await as you continue on, perfect for spotting marine wildlife like seals, dolphins, and migrating whales in winter. We even spotted a couple of turtles surfacing. Some 300 species of bird have also been sighted in Royal, so keep your eyes peeled, and don’t forget to bring your binoculars!
Around 4 hours after setting out, you’ll hike in to Wattamolla. This corner of the park is accessible by car and, with its sheltered lagoon and beach, Wattamolla is a seriously popular spot for day visitors.
There are toilets here, as well as barbecue sites and picnic tables. After our hours of relative solitude on the trail though, we were a bit overwhelmed by the crowds at Wattamolla, so we continued on until we came to a quiet lookout to stop for lunch.
Spotting Whales From The Coast Track
Whale watching is a huge drawcard for hiking the Coast Track during the cooler months of the year.
Between May and November, humpbacks and southern right whales make an epic annual migration between their cold water feeding grounds in Antarctica, and the warmer waters of the tropics, where they breed and calve.
If you’re on the Royal National Park coastal walk over this period, there’s a very good chance you’ll spot these gentle giants surfacing to breathe, frolick and – if you’re lucky – breach.
Over the next couple of hours, look for the beak-like Eagle Rock, and the waterfall at Curracurrong. You’ll eventually reach the high point of Garie North Head, overlooking beautiful Garie Beach.
You’re on the home run of Day 1 now; after trekking across the sand at Garie, there are just two more headlands – one to walk around and one to climb – before reaching camp.
We dragged our legs into North Era Campground just before 4pm, giving us plenty of time to pitch our tents and enjoy the last light of the day.
North Era Campground is a lovely, grassy area nestled in a valley behind the sand dunes of North Era Beach. There were just a handful of other campers when we arrived, so we pretty much had our pick of camping spots.
This is the only place you’re officially allowed to camp along the Royal National Park Coast Track though, and as there are just 12 tent sites, be sure to book ahead (we’ve got details on how to do this further on).
By nightfall, we had our tent set up, dinner on the boil on our small camp stove, and wine in our tin mugs. All we had to do then was sit back, listen to the waves crashing on the beach, and watch as the sky above erupted with stars.
Day 2 – North Era to Otford Lookout (8-kilometres)
If you’re travelling north to south on the Coast Track, Day 2 is much shorter, just 8-kilometres. So there’s no need to rush in the morning.
We do recommend getting up for dawn though. Catching the sunrise from North Era Beach, and watching as the sky turned polychrome over the headland was a highlight of our trek. And we’re not morning people.
After spending a bit of time on the beach, we sorted out breakfast and started packing up camp. We were back on the trail as the sun started peeking over the hill and warming up the valley.
As you leave North Era, you’ll climb out of the valley and pass through the South Era beach shack community. From here you’ll make your way on to Burning Palms, another community with a popular surf beach.
The Cabin Communities Of Royal: As you hike the Coast Track, you’ll pass through three small beach shack villages. I know what you’re thinking: what’s their story? And more importantly, how can I get one?
Royal’s cabin communities were formed back in the 1920s and 30’s, when the Depression drove poor, out-of-work families on to the land around Royal to hunt and grow their own food. Those families went on to build cabins on what was then privately owned land, which was later absorbed into the national park.
These days, the cabins are heritage-listed and held under lease by the descendants of their original owners. So unless you know someone who knows someone, the best you can do is daydream about having your own little beach shack weekender in the park.
At Burning Palms, you’ll find a turn-off from the track to the beach and Royal’s famous Figure 8 Pools, which we didn’t get to on our trek. To reach the rock pools, you’ll need to hike to the southern end of the beach and then along the headland rocks. Check the tides before you go out; the pools can only be accessed when the tide is low and the weather calm.
The final hours of the trek from North Era to Otford offer a very different feel from yesterday’s sandstone-and-heath landscape. After passing along a grassy coastal slope, you’ll come to the exotic-sounding Palm Jungle: a dense, tangled coastal rainforest of cabbage tree palms, swinging vines and tropical vegetation.
From there, you’ll leave the open sea views for a bit as the trail moves inland and climbs through a tall eucalypt forest. You’ll eventually come to one of the last big views of the trail at Werrong Point. We made a pit stop here before our final charge to Otford Lookout.
Despite a slow start and a fairly leisurely pace on Day 2, the journey from North Era Campground to Otford Lookout took us just 3 hours. We arrived at our finish point at around 12.45pm.
If you have a car parked at the lookout, then this is the end of the trek for you – well done! If you’re catching a train though, you’ve got another 2-kilometres to go to reach Otford Station.
At this point, you could hit up the Otford Pantry across the road from the lookout, and reward yourself with a well-earned pie and coffee.
Or, if you do have a car parked at the lookout, you could do what we did and make a short detour south to the Scarborough Hotel for lunch. This big, heritage pub has a sprawling grassy beer garden on the cliff edge; it’s the perfect spot to celebrate an epic walk with a beer and one last view of the Pacific.
Planning For The Royal National Park Coastal Walk
How long do I need?
If you’re fit and after a challenge, you can do the entire 26-kilometre coastal walk in a day (in fact, we passed a number of people on both days who were running the trail, or legs of it).
We’re not quite that mad though, and nowhere near that fit. Stretching the trek over 2 days is a much more leisurely way to soak up the scenery, plus you get to camp under the stars and fall asleep to a soundtrack of crashing waves. Bonus: more time to get up those steep climbs.
Which direction should I hike?
You can hike the Royal National Park coastal walk in either direction; what’s important to know is that the section split is 18-kilometres between Bundeena and North Era Campground, and 8-kilometres between North Era and Otford Lookout.
We chose to hike from north to south (Bundeena to Otford) so we could cover the longest section on Day 1, and have the sun at our backs.
The Coast Track is packed with ups and downs and there’s a touch more climbing if you head south. For occasional hikers like us, the psychology of a little more climbing on Day 1 versus walking more than twice as far on Day 2 clinched the deal. Whatever works for you.
What’s The Best Time Of Year To Hike?
The Coast Track can be hiked year-round, but there are some seasonal drawcards worth planning for.
Wildflowers colour the trail in Spring, and longer days in summer mean you have more time to walk, and enjoy the spectacular beaches en route.
We deliberately chose winter for our trek so we could spot migrating whales off the coast as we hiked. It did mean less hours of daylight and a colder night; we just made sure to carry extra layers and get on the track as early as we could on Day 1.
Weather can, of course, undermine the best laid plans at any time of year, so keep tabs on the forecast before you set out. It’s also important to check the NSW National Parks website in the lead up, to make sure there are no incidents or closures in the park that might affect your hike.
Do I need to book a campsite?
Yes. North Era Campground is the only place you’re officially allowed to pitch a tent overnight on the Coast Track and you need a permit to camp there. This is for the protection of the park environment and the safety of visitors.
When we booked, it cost us $12 per tent and it’s a one night limit. You can book online through the NSW National Parks website or over the phone.
North Era is a basic, self-sufficient campsite. Apart from the drop toilets, there are no other facilities, and no fresh water sources.
Is there drinking water along the Coast Track?
There are no official fresh water sources along the Coast Track, and it’s recommended that you do not drink from the creeks in the park. Carry in as much water as you think you’ll need for 2 days, and then some more. Or bring some method of water purification with you.
When we did the trek, we passed a tap hooked up to a rainwater tank with a ‘drinking water’ sign outside the community hall on the trail through the Burning Palms community. This was on the stretch between North Era and Otford Lookout, and it was a very welcome top-up for us on our second day. Thank you, Burning Palms people!
Garie Beach also has a kiosk that’s usually open on weekends and public holidays. You may be able to buy bottled water if you’re in need. Don’t rely on either of these options though, it’s best to BYO.
Are there facilities along the way?
If, like me, you’re yet to master the art of the bush pee (or squatting generally), you’ll be relieved to know that there are a couple of toilet stops along the Coast Track.
There’s a decent semi-permanent portaloo set-up at the track head in Bundeena, and flush loos at Wattamolla, around 4 hours into the trek. From Wattamolla, it’s a 2.5 hour hike to the next toilets at Garie Beach. Then there are drop toilets at North Era Campground, just 45 minutes further on.
On Day 2 though, you’re on your own once you break camp, as there are no toilets between North Era and Otford Lookout.
Leave No Trace: Be prepared to carry out everything you carry in for your Royal National Park bushwalk, including all your rubbish. That means toilet paper too. There’s nothing worse than stepping into a pile of used loo roll that someone has left behind in the bush.
When we hike, we pre-pack a ziploc bag with degradable doggy bags, toilet paper, hand sanitiser and some extra ziplocs so we can dispose of toilet paper discreetly and carry it out with us.
Hopefully, given the length of the coastal walk and the facilities en route, you won’t need to worry about digging any poop holes on this trek, but if you do, read this.
Can I have a campfire?
No. Royal National Park is a woodfire/campfire-free park. Everyone loves a campfire so this is a bit of a bummer, especially in winter when the sun drops and all you want are some toasty flames to warm your hands by.
Ironically, the first thing you’ll notice when you arrive at North Era Campground is the abundance of fire pits, which makes the urge to build your own little blaze all the more tempting.
There’s a reason for the ban though. Like many parts of Royal, North Era is quite remote so access for fire and rescue teams can be challenging in an emergency; the rules are in place for the protection of the park environment and the safety of the people in the park.
How Do I Get There And Back?
By Public Transport
Getting to and from the Coast Track by public transport is a cheap and relatively straightforward option no matter which direction you’re trekking; it just requires some bus and ferry timetable planning.
To get to Bundeena, take a train to Cronulla, walk a couple of minutes to the pier and take the hourly ferry across Port Hacking to Bundeena. The whole journey should take around 90 minutes.
At the Otford end, simply continue walking for another 2 kilometres beyond Otford Lookout to the Otford train station. From there, you can train it back to Sydney.
Or vice versa.
By Car
This is what we did, but it’s only an easy option if you’re travelling with friends and have access to two cars that you can park at each end of the hike. You’ll park one car at the track head on Beachcomber Avenue in Bundeena, and the other at Otford Lookout.
With one car, you’ll need to find a way back to your starting point, which will involve a version of the train-and-ferry combo outlined above, regardless of which end you park at. More hassle than it’s worth.
If you do drive and you park at Bundeena, you’ll need to either have a NSW National Parks Pass or buy a $12 day pass for each day that your car will be parked in Bundeena.
You can pick up day passes at the Visitor Centre in Audley, or at the petrol station in Bundeena. There are also seasonal ticket booths at Bonnie Vale, but the machines only take cash.
You don’t need a pass if you’re parking at Otford Lookout.
What To Pack – Overnight Hiking Essentials
If you’re taking on the Coast Track over 2 days, you’ll be carrying in everything you need, including camping gear, food and all your water (or a water purification system). Water can add a fair bit of weight to your pack, so it’s worth keeping everything else as light as possible.
Here’s what we packed for our overnight Royal coast walk.
Camping Essentials
- Tent
- Roll mat
- Sleeping bag (take a warmer bag in winter – it gets cold at night!)
- Inflatable pillow
- Portable camp stove and mini fuel canister
- Matches
- Tin mug
- Utensils
- Head torch
- Toilet Paper
- Hand sanitiser
- Bags for carrying rubbish out
Food & Drink
- Lunch for Day 1 (Pre-made rolls)
- Dinner for Day 1 (Try a dehydrated meal for dinner to save weight)
- Breakfast for Day 2 (Oats or cereal are light-weight)
- Snacks – Nuts, chocolate, jerky and fruit
- Instant coffee/tea bags
- Long-life milk (small cartons – we would normally carry powdered milk but that requires extra water)
- Water (we carried 4L of water each, based on calculations that we’d each need at least 3L for drinking, 250mL for a dehydrated dinner, 500mL for hot drinks, and some extra. This was only just enough though and with hindsight, we’d carry more).
- Wine (perfect for a night under the stars! Save weight by transferring wine from glass to a reusable bottle).
Other Essentials
- Hat, sunglasses and sunscreen
- Sarong (multi-use as a towel, picnic blanket, pillow, etc)
- Basic First Aid Kit
- Binoculars
- Portable charger for phones/cameras
- Pack cover in case of rain.
Happy hiking Royal Coast Track!
If you have any questions about the Royal National Park coastal walk, or any hot tips to share, let us know below!