2 Week Itinerary for Puglia: Road Trip Italy’s Beautiful Southeast

Experience a truly authentic Italian road trip escape with our 2 week self-drive itinerary for Puglia, exploring the best of Italy’s ‘boot heel’ including the Itria Valley, Lecce, Ostuni and Gallipoli, plus Matera and much more.

Puglia – the timeless, sun-kissed heel of Italy’s boot. Embraced by two seas and landscaped by a hot and dry Mediterranean climate, this southeastern Italian region feels – in places – like a land from a bygone era.

With our 2 week Puglia road trip itinerary, you’ll explore a rural corner country of olive groves, vineyards, farmland, and a traditional way of life barely touched by the pace of the outside world.

At the same time, Puglia is a region steeped in history, with opulent Baroque architecture, ancient Greek and Roman ruins, medieval fortresses and walled Old Towns, distinctive cone-roofed stone huts called trulli, and a rich cultural heritage shaped over thousands of years.

For a long time, Puglia has been one of the poorer parts of Italy, particularly when compared to the country’s north. Yet it’s renowned for its quality wines, olive oil, cheeses and fresh produce. Puglian cuisine, often called cucina povera meaning ‘poor kitchen’, has become famous for its flavourful simplicity and use of available local ingredients. 

Word has been out for a while now – among Italians at least – about Puglia’s beautiful coastline of rocky terraces, sandy beaches and crystalline waters.

But there’s much, much more to this underrated part of Italy. And as we found, the best way to visit Puglia and explore both it’s highlights and its less-visited parts, is on a road trip.

Having a car also gives you the opportunity to take in the exceptional World Heritage city of Matera in the neighbouring region of Basilicata.

Before our Puglia trip, we knew virtually nothing about this part of Italy. What we found was a charming region of friendly people, cultural and historical richness, and – best of all – a truly (trulli!) authentic Italian experience.

Itinerary for Puglia Road Trip – Snapshot

Start & Finish: Bari, Italy

Distance: Around 1,000 kilometres (620 miles) give or take

How long do I need? 14 days / 13 nights

Overnight stops: 1 night in Bari, 2 nights in Monopoli, 3 nights in Valle d’Itria, 2 nights in Lecce, 2 nights in Santa Maria di Leuca, 1 night in Gallipoli, 2 nights in Matera

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What’s the Route?

We road tripped this fascinating region over a month, and we’ve taken all of our insights and learnings to curate this self-drive two week Puglia road trip, a showcase of the very best of central and southern Puglia.

Flying into the region’s capital, Bari, you’ll spend your first couple of days exploring Bari Vecchia (Bari Old Town), and the historic seaside havens of Monopoli and Polignano a Mare.

Days 4-6 will see you cruising through the olive groves, vineyards and country lanes of the Valle d’Itria (Itria Valley), home to gleaming white hill towns like Locorotondo and the World Heritage trulli village of Alberobello.

Next, you’ll head south to Lecce, the ‘Florence of the South’, exploring this grand golden city and some of the region’s spectacular Adriatic coastline over a couple of days, as well as the seaside town of Otranto.

Over days 9-11, you’ll slow the pace with beach time, passeggiata and sunset aperitivi in and around the charming seaside town of Santa Maria di Leuca and the walled Borgo Antico (Old Town) of Gallipoli.

Finally, you’ll skip out of Puglia briefly into the neighbouring region of Basilicata to visit the remarkable World Heritage city of Matera.

As this is a looping itinerary for Puglia, you could do this trip anti-clockwise instead and head to Matera from Bari first. Or fly into Brinidisi and start/finish there. 

We’ve chosen to go clockwise and leave Matera till last as it really is unlike any other place you’ll visit. In our opinion, it makes for a truly magical finale to the trip. 

Planning a Puglia Road Trip

How long do I need for a Puglia trip?

Stretching around 400 kilometres (250 miles) from the bulging spur of the Gargano Promontory in the northeast, all the way south to the lovely coastal town of Santa Maria di Leuca at the base of the heel, Puglia is actually a much larger region than many realise.

Based on our own experience, we’ve built this 2 week self-drive road trip itinerary for Puglia to take in the very best of the region’s central and southern highlights. To cover off everything we do on this road trip, we recommend two weeks as a minimum.

With 7 days in Puglia or less

If seven days or less is what you’ve got for a Puglia trip, then we recommend focusing your energy on one or two areas, such as the Valle d’Itria and the coastal towns of Monopoli and Polignano a Mare. If you’ve been to those places on a previous Puglia visit, you might head southeast to Lecce instead and the coastline around Otranto, or hit up the sparkling coast around Gallipoli.

With 10 days in Puglia

With 10 days to road trip Puglia, we suggest focusing on the central region, including the Valle d’Itria and Lecce, plus Matera. You could follow this itinerary, but turn back north after Lecce and leave the southern Salento area and Gallipoli for a future trip.

With more than two weeks in Puglia

The more time the better! With extra time to drive around Puglia, you can slow the pace or cast your net beyond this itinerary to take in more of the villages, beaches, country estates and vineyards of the Salento region in Puglia’s south.

Alternatively (or as well as), you could head to the region’s north and northeast, visiting the World Heritage Castel del Monte, and exploring the rugged national park, beaches and seaside towns of the Gargano Promontory. We haven’t made it there ourselves yet, but it’s definitely on our list for next time.

Getting to Puglia

Our Puglia road trip starts and finishes at Bari International Airport-Karol Wojtyla, with car rental pick up and drop off at the airport.

You can fly direct to Bari Airport from a range of cities across Europe, or via connection from further abroad.

• As this is a looping self-drive itinerary for Puglia, another option is to start and finish at Brindisi International Airport-Salento further south. It also has direct connections with various European cities.
  
• If you’re coming by car through mainland Italy, you could make your starting point Matera or Bari.
  
• Passenger/car ferries service Bari from ports in Albania, Greece and Montenegro; and Brindisi from ports in Albania, Greece and Turkey.
  
• You can also reach Bari by train from various points around Italy. The fast train from Rome to Bari takes around four hours.

Best time to visit Puglia

Puglia’s Mediterranean climate makes it a year-round destination. The best time to visit Puglia, though, will ultimately depend on your personal travel preferences, and your tolerance for heat and crowds.

In summer Puglia gets hot, scorching hot. July and August are the hottest months and also the busiest, both in the towns and on the beaches. August is also when Italians typically take their holidays. So while summer is a great time for seeing Puglia at its liveliest and everything is open, it’s also when the crowds are at their most intense, the beaches are heaving, and prices are higher.

Winter is cooler and wetter, but crucially, between November and March, many shops, restaurants and hotels close for the season. So you’ll be able to wander sans crowds and there’ll be better deals on accommodation, but there will also be fewer sites and restaurants open outside of the bigger towns like Bari.

Based on our experience and research, the shoulder periods of spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) are the best times to road trip Puglia. These months bring milder weather without the summer hordes.

We travelled through Puglia in April and May. There were very few tourists in some of the smaller towns like Cisternino and Locorotondo, and not everything was open. But we found the experience to be more local, there were still markets taking place, and we always found somewhere for dinner. Plus the temps were ideal for us.

Driving in Puglia

As with many of Italy’s historic town centres, there are restricted traffic zones (called the Zona Traffico Limitato or ZTL) in Puglia’s old towns. Keep an eye out for signs showing a red circle with a white centre. Some ZTLs are timed but it’s generally easier to just avoid driving into these areas (unless you’ve been directed to parking by an accommodation provider) or you may be fined.

For our own Puglia road trip, we aimed to find accommodation with on-site or on-street parking where we could. We always confirmed the best parking options with our stay before arriving.

You’ll generally find the larger towns in Puglia have paid parking lots on the outskirts of the ZTLs, which you can usually find on Google maps.

You may also occasionally luck out with street parking – look for white-lined spaces (free parking) and blue-lined spaces (paid parking), but always check nearby signs as there can be time limits, special event restrictions or other local variations. Avoid parking in yellow-lined spaces as these are for authorised vehicles only.

Renting a Car in Puglia

As this is a self-drive Puglia itinerary, you’ll need your own vehicle. If you’re planning to rent a car in Puglia, we encourage you to book your hire car as far in advance as possible for the best deals and the widest range of vehicle choice.

We use DiscoverCars when we travel as we find they offer great rates, plus there’s free cancellation if your plans change. You can search and book your Puglia car rental below.

Where to stay in Puglia

Every town we visited in Puglia has its own allure and some had us wishing we’d booked an overnight stay. Like Polignano a Mare and Alberobello, where the intense daytime crowds can dull the shine a bit and staying overnight would let you experience the place after the daytrippers have moved on. Definitely a consideration when planning where to stay in Puglia.

Our personal preference when road tripping though is to select a couple of bases throughout the itinerary and day trip in the car from those stays. That way we avoid the hassle of repacking every day and the worry of having all our luggage in the car while we’re off sightseeing.

Fortunately, while we cover loads of ground in this itinerary, there are opportunities to base yourself in one place for two or more days, and – if you choose – to experience some of Puglia’s unique accommodation experiences, like trulli and masserie.

Staying in Puglia’s Trulli and Masserie

What are Trulli? Trulli (the singular is ‘trullo’) are unique to Puglia and they’ve been around for centuries. You’ll come to recognise these unusual dry-stone huts with their pointy corbelled roofs. They scatter the countryside in various states of condition, particularly in the Valle d’Itria. These days, more and more trulli are being restored and converted into cozy stays.

We spent a couple of days in a studio trullo at Trulli e Masseria Ianella in the Valle d’Itria, around 20 minutes from Locorotondo and Alberobello. It was a snug little space with a kitchenette and attached bathroom. While initially a little hard to find, it was a lovely base for our travels around the Itria Valley.

What are Masserie? A masseria (‘masserie’ is the plural) is a traditional walled farmhouse estate in the countryside. Many of these historic, centuries-old compounds have been restored and revived as accommodation and restaurants at various price points; some low-key and self-catered, others high-end luxury.

Opting to stay in a masseria with an onsite restaurant or kitchen is handy if you’d prefer to stay local rather than driving through the countryside at night.

We had the opportunity to visit friends staying at the beautiful, self-catered Casa Badra in the Valle d’Itria. It sleeps ten, so next time we’re coming back with a group!

During our own Puglia trip, we usually stayed in good value and mid-range apartments on the edge of a town’s Centro Storico (historic centre), with on-site or nearby on-street parking.

You’ll find all types of accommodation to suit all budgets in each of the places we visit in this itinerary, and we’ve included suggestions, as well as places we stayed throughout this post.

Some key things to bear in mind when planning your Puglia accommodation:

• Book well in advance of your visit – While Puglia is still relatively low-key, some places are well and truly on the tourism radar and demand can quickly outstrip supply. In the warmer months and holiday periods, places can book out far ahead of time while in the cooler months, many places close so there’s less availability. Avoid the stress and organise your stays as far in advance as you can.
  
  
• Parking – As this is a self-drive road trip, overnight parking is an important consideration, particularly if you want to stay in a town’s Centro Storico, where there are usually car restrictions in place. Look for places to stay with parking either on-site or nearby and confirm parking options with your accommodation before you arrive.

Booking.com is our go-to for accommodation when we travel, and we used it to find and book all of our accommodation in Puglia. Check out what’s available and book your Puglia stays below.

Puglia or Apulia? You’ll sometimes see Puglia written as Apulia and vice versa. They’re one and the same – Apulia is just an Anglicised version of Puglia.

2 Week Puglia Road Trip Itinerary

Day 1: Arrive Bari

Highlights: Walking tour of Bari Vecchia | Bari Cathedral & Timoteo’s Mosaic | Castello Svevo | Orecchiette Street | Lungomare di Bari
Total driving distance: appx. 12km (7 miles)
Total driving time: appx. 30 minutes
Overnight: Bari (alternative: Monopoli)

Our two week self-drive Puglia road trip starts and finishes at Bari International Airport-Karol Wojtyla, around 30 minutes northwest of the city of Bari, capital of Italy’s Puglia region.

Sprawling Bari has been a centre of fishing and trade and a seafarer’s gateway to southeast Italy for thousands of years. Like many a port town, it has its less salubrious parts and we very nearly gave it a miss, which would have been our loss.

As we discovered, the city’s Centro Storico, Bari Vecchia, is a fascinating hub of narrow streets, grand architecture, impressive historic sites and delicious food. It’s a bustling and authentic place and, we think, worth at least a couple of hours.

Itinerary Tip: Our itinerary assumes you will collect your hire car the day you arrive in Bari. However, if you want to save on car rental fees, it’s possible to hold off on renting a car until Day 4 of this itinerary.

Instead, taxi from the airport to Bari Vecchia on Day 1, then travel between Bari, Monopoli and Polignano a Mare by train, before taking a taxi back to the airport to collect your rental car on Day 4.

Explore Bari Vecchia

There’s plenty to see and do in the labyrinthine streets of Bari Vecchia. We spent a couple of hours here and covered quite a lot of ground on foot.

We usually try to join a walking tour in any new city we visit. On this occasion we went self-guided, but with hindsight, in a town with a history stretching back as far as this one, we wish we’d done this Guided Walking Tour, which explores the main sites and narrow streets of the Old Town with a local.

Bari is also famed for the Puglian pasta specialty, orecchiette. There’s actually a street dedicated to the traditional production of this little ear-shaped noodle – Strada Arco Basso, better known as ‘Orecchiette Street’.

For the best of both worlds – a walking tour that visits the city’s highlights and also gives you a hands-on intro to orecchiette making, check out this Pasta Experience Walking Tour. 

As you wander Bari Vecchia, keep an eye out for main attractions like the 12th-century Basilica di San Nicola and the Cattedrale di San Sabino (Bari Cathedral), which houses the subterranean Museo del Succorpo and the marvellous Timoteo’s Mosaic.

Imposing Byzantine Castello Svevo serves up views over Bari from the ramparts while Teatro Petruzzelli conceals a stunning auditorium. Down by the harbour, the Art Nouveau-style Teatro Margherita glitters in a watery reflection opposite the daily morning fish market.

Finish the day with a wander along the Lungomare di Bari, a lovely seaside walk with views back towards the historic centre and grand old seafront buildings.

Eat and Drink Bari

While you’re here, snack on ‘taralli‘ (a bite-size curl of breadstick) and delicious ‘focaccia Barese‘. For dinner, search out some fresh seafood street food at Pescobar, try some traditional local fare at Antò or La Uascezze, or sample Bari’s famous ‘Spaghetti all’Assassina‘ at Al Sorso Preferito.

Parking in Bari

We parked for a couple of hours at the paid Internalanza lot near the fish market. However, the cheapest, least-fuss option is to head to the Park and Ride Vittorio Veneto five minutes west of Bari Vecchia. It’s €1 per day and there’s a free shuttle to and from Bari Vecchia.

Where to stay in Bari

We personally chose to base ourselves in Monopoli, but if you decide to stay in Bari tonight, your best bet is to stay in or near to Bari Vecchia, where you’ll be spending most of your time.

This is Puglia’s largest city, so you have plenty of options at various price points in and around this area, though do note prices increase significantly over summer. The following options get excellent reviews:

• Good value: Soleil Guest House – Quiet and authentic | Central location | Near paid public parking
• Mid-range: Nonno Nicola Rooms – Lovely rooms | Rooftop terrace | Heart of the Old Town
• Spend a bit more: Dilman Luxury Stay – Contemporary and spacious | Close to the harbour and Lungomare.

Day 2: Monopoli

Highlights: Centro Storico wandering | Monopoli Cathedral | Purgatory Church | Lungomare and City Walls
Total driving distance: appx. 45km (28 miles)
Total driving time: appx. 35 minutes
Overnight: Monopoli

After breakfast, pack the car and make your way south to Monopoli along the SS16 coastal road. It’s a drive of around 35-40 minutes.

We can’t resist an ancient walled city, and we chose Monopoli as our base for a couple of days on photos alone. It turned out to be one of our favourite places to visit in Puglia.

There’s been a settlement here by the rugged Adriatic coast for thousands of years and the city’s still-standing, sea-facing medieval walls and fortifications are testament to its strategic importance through history.

Monopoli’s story rolls out through its Centro Storico along a maze of paved streets lined with whitewashed buildings and buttery-stone churches and palazzos that glow golden in the late afternoon. Here and there, the lanes open out into charming little piazzas.

Spend today and this evening exploring Monopoli at your leisure – this is a great town to simply wander.

Explore Monopoli

On your wanders around the Centro Storico, look out for the Baroque-style Basilica Cattedrale Maria Santissima della Madia (Monopoli Cathedral), the grim Chiesa di Santa Maria del Suffragio detta del Purgatorio (Purgatory church), and historical Palazzo Palmieri, now an exhibition space on the largest piazza in the Old Town.

Monopoli’s seafront promenade, the Lungomare, makes for a magical meander, especially at sunrise and late afternoon. Start at the charming Porto Antico (Old Port), wander past the 16th-century Castello di Carlo V with its huge stone gateway, and the nearby remnant fortifications of Il Bastione del Molino, to the crumbling Chiesa di San Salvatore, said to have been sponsored by shipwrecked pirates.

If you’d like to explore Monopoli in the company of a guide, and taste some traditional Puglian food and wine while you’re at it, check out this highly-rated Walking Street Food Tour.

Monopoli is also gateway to some pleasant beaches, including a couple within walking distance of the Old Town: Spiaggia Cala Porta Vecchia at the base of the city walls; the rocky cove of Cala Cozze; and a wedge of sand at Porto Bianco.

We attended a local football (soccer) match in Monopoli, a spontaneous and unforgettable highlight of our time here. If you happen to be in town when local Serie C team Monopoli play, it’s possible to buy tickets at Stade Vito Simone Veneziani on game day, although you’ll need ID and (in our experience, unless you speak Italian), the assistance of the friendly locals in the ticket queue.

Eat and Drink Monopoli

In Monopoli, our bakery vote goes to Il Forno delle Meraviglie for sweet and savoury snacking goodness.

Ristorante Lido Bianco on the water is a lovely spot for a more upmarket seafood meal (we met friends here for a special occasion), while Trattoria La Locanda dei Mercanti serves up delicious Puglian fare and seafood – book ahead for both.

We also enjoyed cheeky aperitivi at Sottocoperta overlooking Porto Antico. Craft beer lovers, we recommend a visit to La Tana del Luppolo.

Parking in Monopoli

There’s a large free parking lot off Cala Curatori, around 15 minutes’ walk north of Monopoli’s Centro Storico, and another small paid lot to the north on Via Cala Fontanella. Parcheggio Procaccia is a smallish paid parking lot to the south. There’s also street parking surrounding the Centro Storico, but it’s luck of the draw and can be hectic.

Where to stay in Monopoli

For a short stay in Monopoli, we recommend staying either in or within walking distance of the Centro Storico. The following suggested options all get great reviews:

• Good value: Grotta San Vito – Charming and authentic | Amazing location | Roof terrace
• Mid-range: Corte Sant’Angelo – Stylish and Modern | Prime location | Kitchen and Courtyard
• Spend a bit more: Hotel Don Ferranto – Classy and intimate | Vaulted rooms in historic house | Rooftop terrace with sea views

We stayed at La Casa del Gabo, a lovely large room with private bathroom and a cute little balcony, 15-minutes’ walk from the Centro Storico. We found free street parking nearby.

Another option is to base yourself for the next couple of days in a masseria or coastal resort and explore Monopoli and Polignano a Mare – even the Valle d’Itria – from the one place. One with a pool or near the beach would be perfect in summer.

Two gorgeous stays with outstanding reviews that we’ve ear-marked for future Puglia visits include homely Casa Mia in Puglia, and special treat, Masseria Le Torri. 

Day 3: Polignano a Mare

Highlights: Lama Monachile | Centro Storico poetry wander | Terraces and sea views | Coastal boat tour
Total driving distance: appx. 20km (12 miles) if returning to Monopoli
Total driving time: appx. 30 minutes as above
Overnight: Monopoli (alternative: Polignano a Mare)

Early this morning, walk the walls of Monopoli and catch the sun rising, then head down to the Porto Antico to watch the fishermen come in with their catch. If it’s a Tuesday morning, you might also check out Monopoli’s market on the streets around the stadium.

When you’re ready, make your way to Puglia’s glittering coastal magnet, Polignano a Mare. It’s a 15-minute drive up the road from Monopoli, or you can leave the car and take a 15-minute train ride, which is what we did.

People have been drawn to this striking spot on the rugged coast since ancient times, when Illyrians first put down roots here, followed by the Greeks.

Today, homes, hotels, terraces, restaurants and bars layer the clifftops like icing on a cake, all reached by a warren of narrow, smooth-stone paved streets through the town’s Centro Storico.  

Like Monopoli, the best way to experience Polignano a Mare is to simply wander and happen upon its pretty piazzas, Baroque churches and cliff-edge terraces.

As we found, this is also a good way to break free of some of the more crowd-congested parts of the town. Because as you’ll quickly discover, especially if you visit in summer or during a holiday, Polignano a Mare is hands down one of the most popular places to visit in Puglia.

Explore Polignano a Mare

Polignano’s most recognisable (and instagrammed) scene is Lama Monachile, a narrow wedge of pebble beach embraced by high cliffs topped with whitewashed buildings. This stretch of cliff is also home to the annual Red Bull Cliff Diving competition.

Behind the beach is the 19th-century arched span of Ponte Borbonico su Lama Monachile. Look for the remnant ancient Roman bridge behind it (part of the once-extensive Via Traiana).

On the far side of the bridge is a statue of Domenico Modugno, a tribute to Polignano’s famous Italian singer and actor. Behind him, down some stairs, is the rocky platform of Piedma Chiatt, which serves up stellar views.

In the main part of town, wander through the medieval gateway, Porto Vecchio, into the Centro Storico and find the medieval Palazzo dell’Orologio and the tall bell tower of 13th-century Chiesa Matrice Santa Maria Assunta.

Spot snippets of verse on walls and doors as you walk; they’re a local poet’s effort to turn the Centro Storico into an open-air poetry book. The daubs culminate in the Vicolo della Poesia, a wee laneway with the famed ‘Staircase of Poetry’.

For a guided insight into the town’s history and highlights, with a bonus sampling of Puglian food and vino, this popular Street Food Tour with Tastings and Wine runs twice a day.

Another way to appreciate Polignano’s clifftop aspect, and discover the magical coastline and caves along here, is to get out on the water this afternoon on a boat tour.

You can organise boat trips at various places in town, or book ahead online. The tours below are both highly-rated and include a bevvie (one also includes snacks). They launch from ports a little north of Polignano a Mare so check the details when booking. 

Eat and Drink Polignano a Mare

We carb-loaded in Polignano, partly because it was a public holiday and very busy, so we had to be opportunistic with our food choices. With that, the foccacias at Frumè are on point, and the pizza at Pizza e Fichi is yum. If all else fails (or just anyway), gelato is everywhere – MOREA is delish.

For a seriously special dining experience in Polignano though, check out Grotta Palazzese. This very swish restaurant is literally built into the sea cliffs beneath the Centro Storico, open to the sea. It was fully booked when we were there, so it’s on our list for next time – book well ahead!

Parking in Polignano a Mare

If you drive, you’ll need to park on the outskirts of Polignano a Mare and walk in. There’s free parking at the train station, and a large paid parking lot at Parcheggio Marco Polo, a 1km walk along the coast southeast of the Centro Storico. Otherwise, there’s street parking roulette on the outskirts of the historic centre. 

Where to stay in Polignano a Mare

Despite the crowds, Polignano a Mare does have a way of getting under your skin and we’d be lying if we said there wasn’t a part of us that wished we’d stayed here for a night, if just to experience the place without the daytrippers.

If you’re keen to give a night (or two) to Polignano, then here are some suggested stays that get great reviews:

• Good value: Dimora Mediterranea – Quiet but close to everything | Friendly and helpful host | Parking can be reserved nearby for a fee
• Mid-range: Bella Vista Grotta Ardito – Cozy but comfy | Epic terrace views | Free public parking nearby
• Spend a bit more: Aquamarea – Upmarket stay with prime sea views | Breakfast included | Private parking nearby for a fee.

Exploring the Valle d’Itria (Itria Valley) – Overview of Days 4-6

Days 4 to 6 of our Puglia road trip itinerary have you exploring the Valle d’Itria – the Itria Valley.

This is a wonderfully rural (and still comparatively low-touristed) dale of olive groves, vineyards, stone farmhouses and traditional dry-stone houses with conical roofs called trulli. Historic hill towns decked with whitewashed buildings rise above the surrounding farmland.

The Valle d’Itria isn’t large by road-tripping standards but having a car will give you far more flexibility than (the very limited) public transport for exploring the area at your own pace.

Our Puglia itinerary takes in six different hill towns around the Valle d’Itria over the next three days – two each day, grouped according to their proximity to each other. We start early and go late, aiming for a break in the afternoon when most places close for riposo (siesta). These aren’t big towns and you won’t need more than a couple of hours in each place.

We’ve ordered the following days in a way that ensures you have at least one early morning in the World Heritage town of Alberobello. This fantastical trulli village is by far the most popular and busy of all the towns in the Valle d’Itria and, in our experience, it’s best explored before the tour buses start to arrive.

Ultimately, though, over the coming three days, you can visit some or all of the hill towns, on any day, and in any order you choose.

Itinerary Tip: Plan your days around the ‘riposo‘, which you might better know as siesta. It’s a very real thing in Puglia, and it was here in the rural Valle d’Itria where we experienced it most profoundly.

Riposo is the afternoon shut down, when locals head home for lunch and a rest, and not just in summer. What it means in practice is that many shops, restaurants and attractions close between around 1pm and 5pm.

We found the best approach is to plan activities and sightseeing for the mornings and evenings, and make the most of your afternoons to relax, hit the beach, cruise the countryside, or simply enjoy the crowd-free ambience in the towns.

Where to stay in the Valle d’Itria

The beauty of a road trip through the Valle d’Itria is that wherever you are, most places are within a relatively short drive (generally less than 30 minutes). Which makes it ideal for finding a base for the duration of your stay in this area, rather than changing accommodation every day.

You’ll find B&Bs, apartments and hotels in and around the historic centres of all the Valle d’Itria hill towns. But if you’re keen to experience an authentic Puglian trulli or masseria stay, the Valle d’Itria is the perfect area to do so. There are many places to choose from, ranging from rustic, self-catered options through to catered luxury.

The following trulli and masseria stays all have excellent reviews:

• Mid-range: Agriturismo Iazzo Scagno – A beautifully serene, restored farmhouse hotel in woodland near Martina Franca.
• Mid-range (Self-catered): Casa Badra – Friends of ours, visiting Puglia as a group of 10, rented this stunning 5-bedroom, self-catered trulli estate between Alberobello and Locorotondo.
• Spend a bit more: Masseria Salinola – A restored 18th-century farmhouse with spacious rooms in a beautiful setting close to Ostuni.

We rented a cozy studio trullo at Trulli e Masseria Ianella, a traditional, self-catered accommodation in the countryside between Alberobello and Locorotondo, around 20-30 minutes’ drive from most of the hill towns.

Day 4: Valle d’Itria – Egnazia, Cisternino and Martina Franca

Highlights: Ancient ruins of Egnazia | Wandering Cisternino’s charming streets | Soaking up the Baroque beauty of Martina Franca
Total driving distance: appx. 50km (30 miles) if using Locorotondo as a base; this will vary depending on where you stay in Valle d’Itria
Total driving time: appx. 1 hour or so as above
Overnight: Valle d’Itria

Morning at Parco Archeologico di Egnazia

Our first stop today is just 20 minutes southeast of Monopoli, along the SP90 coastal route.

The Parco Archeologico di Egnazia is one of Puglia’s most ancient places and its largest archaeological site. Evidence here dates back to the Bronze Age but the first walled settlement was built around the 4th-century BC by the pre-Roman Messapic people. When the Romans arrived, they expanded the town and built up the port, turning Egnazia into an important Mediterranean trading centre.

There’s an excellent museum on site that explains the history of the city and exhibits beautiful finds from Egnazia’s various periods, through to medieval times.

We wandered the ruins ourselves and there are bilingual signs throughout. There are also audio guides available.

One of the highlights of the site (and as road tripping history nerds, our favourite part) is a well-preserved stretch of the Via Traiana. This was one of Ancient Rome’s first superhighways, linking Brindisi with Benevento and the Via Appia to Rome.

Check opening hours before you visit (you can also book your tickets online), and aim to spend a couple of hours here. 

Itinerary Tip: If ancient ruins don’t appeal, another option this morning is to instead head 25 minutes southwest of Monopoli to the Grotte di Castellana (the Caves of Castellana). These beautiful caves stretch for several kilometres underground and can be explored on guided tours.

Early afternoon in Cisternino

From Egnazia, set your GPS for Cisternino, a drive of around 30 minutes via the SS16 and SP9. This charming spot is the first of the hill towns we visit on the Valle d’Itria leg of our itinerary for Puglia.

Explore Cisternino

Make your way to Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi, a lovely terraced square with panoramic views over the countryside.

Head into the narrow, limestone-paved maze of Cisternino’s Centro Storico, passing the imposing Torre di Porta Grande, a Norman-Swabian tower that once formed part of the city’s defensive walls and the main entrance to the town. Opposite is the 15th-century Chiesa Madre di San Nicola di Pàtara, with impressive renaissance sculptures.

Search out Piazza Vittorio Emmanuelle II, Cisternino’s tiny little main square, watched over by the Torre dell’Orologio clock tower.

As you go, look out for glimpses of the town’s old palazzos and round towers, as well as snippets of poetry and street art decorating walls and swings.

Parking in Cisternino

We found paid parking on the edge of the Centro Storico, at the base of the staircase up to Belvedere di Piazza Marconi.

Eat and Drink Cisternino

Cisternino is known as a bit of a foodie destination. Local specialities include ‘fave e cicoria‘ (mashed fava beans with chicory) and ‘fornello pronto‘.

You can find the latter in traditional butcher shops called fornelli – simply grab a table, choose your meat at the counter and it’ll be grilled up for you to eat on the spot (if you’re keen to try one, you may like to make this an evening visit instead).

Al Vecchio Fornello is a great example, but get there for opening if visiting in peak. We highly recommend ‘bombettes‘ – delicious little rolls of cheese-stuffed grilled meat. Yum!

Mid-afternoon: Check into your accommodation

As many places close in the afternoons, this is a good time to make your way to your Valle d’Itria accommodation, check in and chill out for a little while before heading out again later.

Late afternoon and evening in Martina Franca

Later today, make your way to the elegant hill town of Martina Franca. It’s a 15-minute drive from Cisternino along the SP13 and SP61, or a 10-minute drive from Locorotondo along the SS172.

Founded around a thousand years ago, the medieval period saw Martina Franca become one of the region’s wealthiest towns. Hence the beautiful Baroque and Rococo-style architecture you’ll find here, alongside its classic whitewashed buildings.

Despite being the biggest town in the valley, Martina Franca isn’t quite as touristy as some of the other towns (though the buzzing late afternoon family stroll – the passeggiata – was something we’ll remember). We found wandering the narrow, limestone-paved streets of the Centro Storico a delight.

Explore Martina Franca

Start at the triangular-shaped Piazza Roma, where the soaring archway of Porta di Santo Stefano serves as a gateway in one corner.

Highlights include the vast Palazzo Ducale di Martina Franca and the baroque facades of Via Vittorio Emanuele.

The triangular gathering space of Piazza Plebiscito is where you’ll find the grand Basilica di San Martino and the Torre dell’Orologico clock tower.

A little further on is the curving embrace of baroque Piazza Maria Immacolata, which is where we paused for aperitivo and people watching. Nearby, the L’Acropoli di Puglia olive oil mill offers tours and tastings.

Parking in Martina Franca

We parked on the northern edge of the Centro Storico, in a paid space at the Parcheggio Viale Europa.

Eat and Drink Martina Franca

Martina Franca is renowned for its ‘capocollo‘, a traditionally-made, dry-cured and lightly smoked pork cold cut similar to prosciutto. It’s perfect in a panini. If you have a sweet tooth, look out for ‘bocconotti Martinesi‘, a local short crust pastry filled with jam or cream.

For a delicious dinner of Puglian cuisine in Martina Franca, we suggest a visit to Osteria del Coco Pazzo da Stefano.

Day 5: Valle d’Itria – Alberobello and Locorotondo 

Highlights: Exploring World Heritage Alberobello | Wandering Locorotondo’s stone-paved lanes | Sunset aperitivo overlooking the Valle d’Itria
Total driving distance: appx. 20km (12 miles) if using Locorotondo as a base; will vary depending on where you stay in Valle d’Itria
Total driving time: appx. 20 minutes as above
Overnight: Valle d’Itria

Early morning in Alberobello

Today we recommend an early start, because if there’s one destination on just about every Puglia itinerary, it’s Alberobello.

This delightful little town looks like something straight out of a fantasy novel, with its sweep of whitewashed cottages capped by corbelled, cone-shaped limestone roofs. These are trulli, the unique, dry-stone buildings for which Puglia is renowned.

Trulli can be found throughout Puglia, but mainly in the Valley d’Itria. In Alberobello, you’ll find the biggest and best preserved trulli clusters – there are more than 1,500 here, many of them centuries old. For these reasons, Alberobello has been designated a World Heritage site.

Little surprise then that Alberobello gets VERY busy during the day. We visited at several different times of day, and, unless you plan to stay in the town, we highly recommend getting here well before the tourist buses roll in.

Explore Alberobello

Alberobello isn’t big and it can easily be explored under your own steam. But there’s a fascinating story to this town, and the best way to get a real feel for the place is on a guided tour.

The two-hour walking tours below both get excellent reviews, with one of them also including entry to the Trullo Sovrano Museum. 

There are two main areas to explore in Alberobello – Rione Monti and Rione Aia Piccola.

Rione Monti is the trulli showpiece. South of the main street through town, it’s the more touristy of the two areas, and many of the thousand-odd trulli in this zone are shops, restaurants and tourist stays.

As you stroll the cobbled streets here, look out for the twin-roofed Trullo Siamese; Il Trullo Pia Piccolo, the tiniest trullo in town; and Chiesa Parrochiale di Sant’Antonio da Padova, the world’s only trullo church.

On the north side of the main street is Rione Aia Piccola. There are around 500 trulli in this zone, but it’s more residential and has more of a local feel. On this side, head to Alberobello’s (only) two-storey Trullo Sovrano for some historical insight into the town. Nearby, the 18th-century Casa D’Amore was the first home in Alberobello to be built with mortar, a major step change in the town’s history.

You’ll also find some excellent views over the trulli-scape from this side. Our picks are the Vista Panoramica dei Trulli next to Chiesa di Santa Lucia and the nearby Villa Comunale Belvedere Parco.

Parking in Alberobello

There are a number of paid parking lots near to the centre of Alberobello. You’ll pay between €6 and €10 for the day. We arrived early enough to park at Piazzale Biagia Miraglia, which is virtually next door to the trulli zone, but as these parking lots fill up, the road is closed off. There’s a large free parking area around 10 minutes’ walk away, at Via 7 Liberatori Della Selva.

Where to stay in Alberobello

While we didn’t personally stay in Alberobello, we get that for many people, staying in a trulli in a World Heritage trulli town would be a highlight of a Puglia visit. It would certainly be a nice way to experience the town after the daytrippers leave (just note prices soar during peak). Three options with solid reviews include:

• Good value: Trulli Soave – Quiet apartment on edge of trulli zone | Clean and spacious | Outdoor area
• Mid-range: Terrazza Sui Trulli – In the heart of the trulli zone | Roof terrace with amazing views | Excellent hosts
• Spend a bit more: Trulli Holiday Albergo Diffuso – Stylish and authentic | Central location | Free private parking nearby.

Late afternoon and evening in Locorotondo

Rest up for a couple of hours this afternoon and then, as the sun begins to drop, make your way to the whitewashed rise of Locorotondo.

Founded as a hamlet around 1000AD, the name relates to the town’s circular layout atop the hill – in Latin, locus rotundus.

We often found ourselves entirely alone as we wandered the stone-paved streets of this charming town in late April. Still, or maybe as a result, Locorotondo turned out to be our favourite of the Valle d’Itria hill towns. We returned several times during our stay in this area to enjoy a peaceful sunset aperitivo from the terraces overlooking the countryside.

Explore Locorotondo

To be honest, there’s not a great deal to do in Locorotondo itself. But it has been officially designated a borghi piu belli d’Italia – one of Italy’s most beautiful towns – and meandering here is a pleasure.

Highlights include the Villa Communale public garden and the Belvedere di Locorotondo, which serves up wide-reaching valley views.

The Porta Napoli is the gateway to the Centro Storico, the town’s main thoroughfare and Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II.

Look for the Baroque traces on the façade of Palazzo Morelli, the creamy-stoned Chiesa Madre di Sant Giorgio Martire, and the tiny, ancient-feeling 15th-century Chiesa Madonna della Greca.

If you’re here on a Friday, there’s a local market in the main car park below the town. We rustled up a delicious antipasti from the stalls here.

Eat and Drink Locorotondo

We had tasty traditional fare at tiny Ristorante La Braceria, and the best pizza of our Puglia trip at La Pizzeria.

Before seeking out dinner in Locorotondo though, we absolutely recommend stopping for a glass of Puglian vino at one of the bars on the southern side of the hill along Via Nardelli, overlooking the valley. Our sunset aperitivo go-to was Pavì.

Parking in Locorotondo

There’s a free parking lot at the base of the hill on Piazza Antonio Mitrano. We were able to park here each time we visited, except during the Friday market. Be careful not to park in the spaces designated for residents – check signs. There are also a couple of free parking lots to the south-west, less than 10 minutes’ walk from the Centro Storico.

Day 6: Valle d’Itria – Bike Tour/Wine Tasting & Ostuni

Highlights: Scenic cycling and/or wine tasting | Exploring the White City of Ostuni | Ostuni views
Total driving distance: appx. 70km (45 miles) if using Locorotondo as a base; will vary depending on what you do today and where you stay in Valle d’Itria
Total driving time: appx. 90 mins as above
Overnight: Valle d’Itria

Morning – Wine Tasting and/or eBike Tour

A couple of words will come up time and again as you plan your days in the Valle d’Itria – trulli, wine, olive oil.

Around the clusters of pointed trulli roofs, the open plains and gentle hills of this fertile valley are literally blanketed in vineyards and olive groves, producing outstanding wine and olive oil.

So it’d be a tragedy to pass through this region and not sample some of the wares at source. Or enjoy a ride through this gorgeous countryside by bike. Or combine the two! This morning is an opportunity to do just that.

Bike tour the Valle d’Itria

We did an eBike tour through the valley between Martina Franca and Locorotondo and while the weather wasn’t always on our side that day, it was still an unforgettable experience riding through the lovely countryside here.

Depending on where you want to start, the three eBike tours below all get good reviews:

Wine tasting in Valle d’Itria

If you’d prefer wine tasting without the physical exertion, there are organised tours to wineries in the Valle d’Itria, like this Alberobello Winery Tour, which includes a vineyard tour and a tasting of four wines and some local produce.

As we found, though, it’s generally pretty easy to organise tours and tastings direct with some wineries too.

One of these is I Pastini, a beautiful vineyard located between Locorotondo and Martina Franca. You can arrange a one-hour tour and tasting direct via their website. Just be sure to book ahead – we tried to book lastminute and missed out, but they were very responsive and we’ll definitely be heading there next time. They also have a shop where you can taste their wares in Locorotondo’s Centro Storico.

Afternoon/Evening in Ostuni

We’ve set aside the last afternoon/evening of the Valle d’Itria leg of our Puglia itinerary for one of our favourite places in Italy’s heel – Ostuni, La Città Bianca (the White City).

The nickname definitely gives Lord of the Rings vibes, but there’s nothing quite like seeing this fantastical, Gondor-like hill town rising from the surrounding plains for the first time.

Established around 2,500 years ago by the Messapians, Ostuni has been fortified, conquered and rebuilt throughout the ages, most notably during the Renaissance and Baroque periods when many of the beautiful buildings you’ll see today were raised.

Take your time to discover this magical place over the rest of the afternoon and evening (take it slow, too, in parts of the Centro Storico, Ostuni really does put the ‘hill’ in hill town).

Itinerary Tip: For excellent views of the White City, head to Piazzetta Martiri delle Foibe on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II as you drive in or on your way out.

Explore Ostuni

Start with a loop around Ostuni’s impressive City Walls – the Mura Aragonesi – along Viale Oronzo Quaranta. You can enter via the historic gateways of Porta San Demetrio in the east and Porta Nova in the west.

Head inside Ostuni’s cathedral, Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta, to see its stunning marble-and-fresco interior. Just nearby is the Arco Scoppa – Ostuni’s own ‘Bridge of Sighs’, and La Casa con La Porta Blu – the town’s much-instagrammed ‘blue door’.

The Museo di Cività Preclassiche della Murgia is housed in a former monastery attached to the Chiesa di San Vito Martire. This is home to the moving ‘Woman of Ostuni’ exhibition about Delia, a Paleolithic woman who was pregnant when she passed and was buried in a nearby cave some 25,000 years ago. *At last check, the museum is temporarily closed.

Piazza della Libertà is a great spot for people watching with an aperitivo, under the eternal gaze of Saint Oronzo atop his opulent column.

If today is a Saturday, there’s a morning street market on Via Sansone, around 20 minutes’ walk from Piazza della Libertà.

Eat and Drink Ostuni

In Ostuni, snack on ‘panzerotti pugliese‘ (a bit like a fried empanada stuffed with cheese and other goodness) from Asso di Spade.

If you can, bag a table at Borgo Antico Bistrot for what may be, in our opinion, Puglia’s best aperitivo views (alongside Locorotondo).

Or, for an authentic taste of Puglian home cooking and hospitality while in the Ostuni area, check out this 4-course dining experience at a local’s home.

Parking in Ostuni

There are a handful of paid parking lots surrounding Ostuni’s Centro Storico, within walking distance. We used the Parcheggio Communale on Via Giosuè Pinto. It has ticket machines (the card reader was acting up so we used coins). Check the signs as the paid parking hours and costs change depending on time of year.

Day 7: Lecce via Brindisi

Highlights: Ancient sites of Brindisi | Walking tour of Lecce | Piazza del Duomo | Sunset atop Lecce’s bell tower
Total driving distance: appx. 110km (70 miles) from Locorotondo via Brindisi
Total driving time: appx. 90 mins
Overnight: Lecce

Day 7 of our Puglia itinerary sees us leaving the Valle d’Itria and heading into Puglia’s deep south: the Salento region.

Fully embraced by the Adriatic and Ionian seas, this part of Italy’s boot heel feels hotter, drier and flatter. Olive groves, vineyards and scrubby brush blanket the landscape, edged by rugged coastline, hidden coves and beautiful sandy beaches.

We suggest an early start so you can max your time exploring Lecce. For the history die-hards like us, there’s an optional stop in Brindisi (if you don’t mind eating into your Lecce hours).

Morning – Brindisi (optional)

It’s virtually impossible for us to drive past an ancient place (we’ve tried, believe me), and while Lecce deserves as much time as you can give it today, if you’re on the hunt for Ancient Rome in Puglia, then you might consider an hour or two this morning in Brindisi. It’s en route to Lecce, around an hour’s drive from Locorotondo along the E55.

Nearly two thousand years ago, the Ancient Romans pounced on Brindisi for its strategic value as a commercial and military hub with sea access to Greece, the Balkans and the Near East.

They built the world’s first superhighway, the Via Appia, to link this vital centre – Brundisium – with Rome. The Via Traiana, that other ancient road you encountered in Polignano a Mare and Egnazia – also ends here. 

Explore Brindisi

Head to the waterfront, where the dual Colonna Romana di Brindisi proudly mark the start/finish of the Via Appia atop a staircase leading to the water.

Next to the stairs, the Palazzina del Belvedere-Collezione Archaeologica Faldetta houses a small but lovely collection of artefacts and a rooftop viewing area.

Other ancient sites include the streetscape ruins of the Area Archeaologica di San Pietro degli Schiavoni, beneath the modern theatre (there are some remnant ruins in the park opposite too), and the Scavi Romani di via Casimiro.

If time allows, head into the free Museo Archeologico Provinciale Francesco Ribezzo to see what’s been unearthed from Brindisi’s layers.

There’s also the Tempio di San Giovanni al Sepolcro: a small, circular Romanesque church with medieval frescoes, once visited by those on their way to and from the Crusades.

Parking in Brindisi

We found paid parking at Piazza delle Capitanerie di Porto (check the signs for payment hours), a five-minute walk from the Colonna Romana.

Rest of the Day and Evening in Lecce

From Brindisi, it’s a 30-minute drive southeast to Lecce along the SS613.

The Messapians were comfortably settled at Lecce when the Ancient Romans wrested control from them around the third century BC. Under Roman rule, Lecce flourished but the Middle Ages brought instability to the city, and a revolving door of rulers.

The 15th-century ushered in a cultural and architectural reset, a forerunner to the Baroque ‘golden age’ that created the strikingly beautiful Centro Storico you will explore today and tonight.

Lecce’s exquisite architecture, much of it built with a buttery limestone called Leccese stone, gave rise to its nickname, the ‘Florence of the South’.

We fell in love with Lecce from the moment we passed through the entryway of the Palazzo dei Celestini into the Centro Storico. Our visit here was one of the absolute highlights of our road trip, and in our view, Lecce is one of the best places to see in Puglia

Simply having time to wander, or sit down for lunch/coffee/aperitivo/dinner (or all of them!) and soak up the beauty of this city is one reason we recommend giving it as much time as you can. If we had an extra day with this itinerary, we’d give it to Lecce. If you can find accommodation in or near the historic centre, go for it.

Explore Lecce

We highly recommend joining a guided tour in Lecce and delving into the city’s fascinating story. You can sign up for tours opposite the Basilica di Santa Croce. Or book ahead on a walking tour like this highly-rated, 2-hour Baroque Architecture and Underground Walking Tour, which includes entry to several sites.

Alternatively, discover the landmarks while sampling Salento specialties on this Street Food Tasting and Walking Tour.

During your wanders in Lecce, admire the Basilica‘s wildly ornate Baroque facade and, next door, the Palazzo dei Celestini, once a convent, now a government building. To the right of Basilica is the poignant Museo Ebraico (Jewish Museum).

Piazza del Duomo is a fully enclosed Baroque immersion (even better appreciated with a gelato from the gelateria on Via Libertini just near the entrance to the Piazza). There, you’ll find the Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta (Lecce Cathedral) and the soaring Campanile del Duomo – take a lift up the bell tower for exceptional views over the city. Time your trip up for sunset if you can, it’s gorgeous.

The Chiesa di San Matteo and Chiesa di Sant’Irene are further examples of Lecce’s beautiful Baroque style, as are the ornate city gates of Porta San Biagio, Porta Rudiae and Porta Napoli.

For a glimpse of Lecce’s Ancient Roman past, there’s the intimate Teatro Romano. Head to the back of the excellent gallery/museum MUST – Museo Storico Città di Lecce for a ‘secret’ balcony view over the theatre.

In Piazza Sant’Oronzo, there’s an unearthed portion of the much larger, 2nd century Anfiteatro Romano, along with the Renaissance-era Palazzo del Seggio (Sedile), the tall Colonna di Sant’Oronzo, and the pavement mosaic of Lecce’s symbol, a wolf under an oak tree.

Tonight, enjoy aperitivi and dinner in one of Lecce’s lovely restaurants.

Eat and Drink Lecce

There’s some required snacking while in Lecce. Our go-to for daily pastry goodness was Il Forno di Nonno Felice, a 15-minute walk from the Centro Storico.

Lecce is famous for ‘pasticciotto‘, a shortcrust pastry with sweet fillings, and ‘caffe Leccese’, an iced coffee with an almond syrup kick.

For a savoury hit, there’s our fave, the ‘Rustico Leccese‘, a flaky pastry filled with mozzarella, bechamel and tomato. And ‘puccia Pugliese‘, a fluffy flat bread stuffed with whatever you like (meatball puccia all the way!).

You’re spoilt for choice for aperitivi and dinner. Our personal picks include aperitivo with Palace and Basilica views at Mamma Elvira Enoteca; the top-notch traditional Salento sharing plates at Alle Due Corti; and for a properly authentic, local experience just outside of the Centro Storico, Trattoria Le Zie Trattoria Casereccia. Reservations are essential for the restaurants.

Beer fans, we recommend a cheeky bevvie or two at Officine Birrae, Bluebeat and Prophet.

Parking in Lecce

We had onsite parking at our accommodation in Lecce, but there are various parking lots surrounding the Centro Storico. We’ve read reasonable reviews about Parcheggio Custodito ‘Ex Gil’ on Via Adua. Otherwise, keep your eyes peeled for street parking.

Where to Stay in Lecce

Your accommodation options for Lecce are many and varied, with lots of beautiful, well-appointed stays both inside the Centro Storico and in the immediate surrounds. Some highly rated accommodation options, all in prime spots near the historic centre include:

• Good value: Dimi House – Spacious and stylish | Highly regarded host | Breakfast included
• Mid-range: Signuria Dimora Esclusiva – Modern reno with traditional vaulted ceilings | Comfortable and quiet | Terrace and rooftop garden
• Spend a bit more: Palazzo Sant’Anna Lecce – Historic and atmospheric | Beautifully restored | Excellent hospitality and breakfast.

We stayed at Salecce B&B, a spotless, good value apartment with a paid private car space and lovely hosts. It was around 15 minutes’ walk from the Centro Storico (they’re now on AirB&B).

Random Itinerary Tip: If you’re in the Lecce region on a Saturday morning and you’re keen to get outdoors for a run or walk to offset all the pasta/pizza/pastry, we highly recommend the 5km Salento parkrun, 20 minutes north of Lecce. It’s the only parkrun in southern mainland Italy, it’s in a lovely rural setting, and the locals and other parkrun tourists we met there couldn’t have been nicer.

Day 8: Otranto Coast Day Trip

Highlights: Otranto’s World Heritage Old Town | Otranto Mosaic | Sea stacks of I Faraglioni di Sant’Andrea | Otranto coastline | Grotta di Poesia
Total driving distance: appx. 100km (62 miles)
Total driving time: appx. 2 hours
Overnight: Lecce (alternative: Otranto)

Today, our Puglia itinerary has you exploring the World Heritage Old Town of Otranto, as well as some of the gorgeous coastal highlights of this region.

This is a looping day trip from Lecce, so you’ll be returning later today for another evening in this magical city. If you don’t want to backtrack, though, you could rework today’s itinerary so that you spend the night in or near to Otranto instead.

Morning in Otranto

Once you’ve cranked up your energy levels with a warm pasticciotto and a caffe leccese, set your GPS for the coastal town of Otranto. It’s around 40 minutes southeast of Lecce.

Otranto’s stocky, imposing castle was the inspiration for the 18th-century gothic classic, The Castle of Otranto, although author Horace Walpole apparently never visited.

Were he to go today, he’d find a charming World Heritage Borgo Antico (Old Town) with narrow, stone-paved streets and 15th-century walls, and a harbour lapped by water so inviting, we were hard pressed not to strip off and jump straight in.

Otranto’s history followed a similar path to other Puglian cities along this coast, but with two defining episodes: as an important religious centre in the Middle Ages, and as a tragic conquest for Ottoman invaders.

Explore Otranto

Otranto’s Borgo Antico is compact and very easy to explore on your own. As you wander, look out for the Chiesa di San Pietro, a stocky 10th-century church housing some impressive medieval frescoes.

The 11th-century Cattedrale di Santa Maria Annunziata (Otranto Cathedral) is home to the epic, must-see Otranto Mosaic, a vast tesserae artwork covering the entire Cathedral floor.

The Cathedral’s Capella Mortiri also preserves a grim reminder of the city’s most tragic turning point: the skulls and bones of the Martyrs of Otranto, 813 men who were killed for refusing to convert when the city fell to invading Ottomans in 1480. The Cathedral is closed between 1pm and 3pm.

The city’s fortifications came about as a direct result of this turbulent time. You can wander around the walls today, and also go inside Castello Aragonese for a small fee and a guided tour.

Parking in Otranto

We found easy parking near to Otranto’s Borgo Antico in the large lot at Parcheggio ‘Le Palme’. It cost us a flat rate of €5.

Afternoon – Sea Stacks, Beaches and Cave of Poetry

There are a couple of options for how to spend your afternoon on the return to Lecce. Pick one or a combo depending on your preferences, or head straight back to Lecce and enjoy a second afternoon exploring the city.

The coastline here is captivating, so if you’re feeling the pull of the region’s crystalline waters, be sure to pack your swimmers and a towel for this afternoon.

Sea stacks and swimming at I Faraglioni di Sant’Andrea

Much of the coastal stretch in this region is rugged limestone, and there are plenty of places to lay out your towel and launch straight off the rocks to swim or snorkel in the glassy sea.

Our favourite of these is I Faraglioni di Sant’Andrea, a cluster of creamy sea stacks rising from turquoise water at the northern end of the hamlet of Sant’Andrea.

The cooler temps of our springtime visit meant we weren’t up for braving the chilly Adriatic, and we had the place mostly to ourselves. Summer would no doubt be a different story, but the chance to delve into the depths here would be memorable. Whether you’re sitting or swimming, this is a magic spot to chill for a bit, or wander along the coastal path north.

There’s a small paid parking lot just nearby, or look out for free street parking. Access to the rocky ledges is via a narrow staircase in the rock.

Beach time

If you’re keen for some beach time, there are a number of sandy beaches along the Otranto coast. Just be aware that Puglia’s beaches can get intensely busy in summer, particularly over July and August.

The most rated beach in the area is Baia dei Turchi. It takes a bit of effort to get to as the parking isn’t nearby – we understand there’s a small ‘trenetto’ that runs between the car park and a drop off point in season, after which you walk through woods to the beach. There’s a summer lido (beach club), as well as a free public area.

A little further north and more easily accessible is Spiaggia Alimini. It also has lidos and free public areas.

Alternatively, head to the beach in the small seaside town of Torre dell Orso. There’s an observation point at the northern end of town, overlooking the bay and the famous twin sea stacks, La Due Sorelle.

Grotta delle Poesia and Rocca Vecchia Archaeological Area

The Grotta della Poesia (Cave of Poetry) and Roca Vecchia Archaeological Area are just 5-minutes north of Torre dell Orso, so you could easily build in a visit alongside time at the sea stacks or the beach.

That said, accessing this large, open-air museum and the stunning natural waterhole here can be a finicky endeavour depending on when you go.

The ancient ruins of Roca Vecchia were once part of a large, fortified Bronze Age settlement. It’s an active archaeological site with the remains of extensive walls, roads, tombs and house foundations. It sits on the left-hand side of the inlet.

Grotta della Poesia, to the right, is part of a network of caves and sinkholes thought to have been an ancient cult centre. A small cave in the system was found covered in prehistoric engravings and votive inscriptions in Messapian, Greek and Roman. You used to be able to swim in the large open sinkhole but no longer.

There’s a €3 entry fee, giving you access to both the Grotta della Poesia and Roca Vecchia. The Grotta is open daily from 9am to 7pm between May and mid-October, however opening days and times are variable for Roca Vecchia. Out of season, you’re supposed to book your visit at least 24 hours in advance but the website on signs at the site doesn’t seem to work (and the gates were open when we visited so we went on in).

There’s a large paid parking area a short walk from the site entry. It charges a small fee for a minimum of 30 minutes. 

Evening back in Lecce

At the end of the day, make your way back to Lecce and wrap up your day with a post-dinner wander through the lit-up streets of Lecce’s Centro Storico.

Day 9: Santa Maria di Leuca via Galatina, Castro & Grotta Zinzulusa

Highlights: Exquisite church frescoes | Gorgeous coastal driving | An ancient walled town | A fascinating cave tour
Total driving distance: appx. 90km (56 miles)
Total driving time: appx. 1 hour 45 mins
Overnight: Santa Maria di Leuca

On Day 9 of our self-drive itinerary for Puglia, you’ll travel to the southernmost point of Italy’s heel and the resort town of Santa Maria di Leuca (Leuca for short).

Our itinerary has you staying a couple of nights in Leuca. So en route today, you can take the opportunity to visit a couple of Salento standouts, including one of Italy’s most beautiful frescoed churches and one of the world’s most important caves. 

Basilica di Santa Caterina, Galatina

Stock up on Rustico Leccese, farewell Lecce and set out for Galatina. It’s a drive of around 25 minutes.

Galatina has a lovely historic centre that’s worth a wander, but our focus for this stop is the Basilica di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria.

There are churches and then there are Italian churches. And then there’s this Italian church. Built in the 14th-century, almost every surface of the Basilica’s interior is frescoed in beautiful, vibrant detail with religious themes and scenes from the life of St Catherine of Alexandria.

Even if you’re churched out by now, we reckon this one is worth the detour. It’s a masterpiece of medieval art and it’s honestly one of the most breathtaking church interiors we’ve seen.

We recommend getting to the Basilica for opening at 8.30am. Entry is free, though donations are appreciated. Check the website ahead of your visit.

Parking in Galatina

Your best bet for parking in Galatina is on the street. We were able to find a free parking space (white line markings) just outside the ZTL on Corso M. d’Enghien, a short walk from the Basilica. Be sure to check nearby street signs for any parking restrictions.

Coastal Drive from Galatina to Castro

The next stop is Castro, an ancient town built upon rugged cliffs above the Adriatic. While you could take a direct route from Galatina to Castro via the SP33 and SP363 (a drive of around 30 minutes), we highly recommend taking the longer coastal route along the SP87 and SP358 south from Otranto.

This winding journey is a showcase of the rugged and starkly beautiful Salento coastline hereabouts and will take around an hour, plus time for photo stops.

Explore the ancient heart of Castro

The seaside town of Castro sweeps up from a rocky shoreline and turquoise waters in two levels.

The lower part, Castro Marina, is a seaside resort – popular for swimming, snorkelling and boat trips during the summer season, though by all accounts less busy than other seaside towns in Puglia. If you have more time in your itinerary and the weather suits, you might consider spending part of the day in Castro Marina at one of the lidos. The walk down takes around 15 minutes. 

Upper Castro, or Castro Alta, is the town’s ancient heart, the Castrum Minervae of Roman times. This is where we’re headed today.

Castro Alta’s Centro Storico is a charming maze of narrow streets, ancient stone houses, and landmarks like the 16th-century Castello Aragonese and the 12th-century Cattedrale di Santa Maria dell’Assunta (spot the remains of a Byzantine chapel on the northern exterior of the Cathedral).

Take in the panoramic views from the Belvedere di Castro and explore the MAR di Castro museum for insights into regional history, Zinzulusa and Messapian culture.

Parking in Castro

We lucked out with a car space in a small, free parking lot on Via Marinai D’Italia. If you can’t find a free space though, Parcheggio Via Di Mezzo is a decent sized paid parking lot just a short walk from the Centro Storico (Grotta Zinzulusa is also walkable from the Old Town). At last check, it was €3 for the day. 

Tour Grotta Zinzulusa

A 15-minute walk north of Castro Alta will bring you to Grotta Zinzulusa (there’s parking onsite if you’d prefer to drive). This impressive cave, with its yawning sea entry, is home to living fossil species of blind shrimp and sponges found nowhere else on Earth.

There are stalactites, stalagmites, a lake and a 25-metre-high cavern called the Duomo that once housed enough bats to fill the space nearly 6 metres deep with guano (pity the poor souls brought in to harvest that stuff). Archaeological and fossil finds here tell stories of human and animal use spanning millennia.

Access to the cave is by guided tour only, with entry via a narrow pathway carved into the rock face by the sea. There are quite a few steps down to the cave. Tours take around 30 minutes and tickets are €6 at the ticket office next to the car park. Our guide was excellent and provided lots of fascinating info about the geology and history of the cave. Check the website before you visit.

There’s also a large man-made saltwater pool on the clifftop high above the cave. The ocean views are grand so if you fancy a scenic swim while you’re here, bring your swimmers (there’s an entry fee).

Drive the coastal road to Santa Maria di Leuca

From Castro, get back on to the SP358 south to Santa Maria di Leuca. This is another wonderful stretch of Puglia road tripping – you’ll hug the Salento coastline all the way, with scrubby brush to the right and sparkling Adriatic to the left. The drive will take around 40 minutes.

Driving Tip: Watch out for one-way systems in place around some towns, like Tricaso Porto. Where you veer off the SP358, just follow the signs and the traffic and you’ll eventually be able to rejoin the route.

Evening in Santa Maria di Leuca

Once you’ve arrived in Santa Maria di Leuca and checked in to your stay, head down to the palm-lined waterfront promenade, the Lungomare.

If it’s late afternoon/early evening, you may be in time to join the passeggiata, that very Italian tradition of enjoying a stroll with family and friends. Even in the quieter low season, this was one of the liveliest passeggiate we experienced in Puglia.

Parking in Leuca

Speak with your accommodation about the best place to park for your stay in Leuca. There’s paid (blue lines) and free (white lines) street parking around town – check signs. Also be aware that there’s a one-way system on the streets by the waterfront.

Where to stay in Santa Maria di Leuca

Leuca and the coast around here have been drawing holidaymakers for generations, so while there are some hotels, you’ll find accommodation is geared towards holiday stays, like self-catered apartments and villas. Book well in advance if travelling in peak. These options are all within walking distance of the waterfront:

• Good value: B&BLeucaineout – Comfortable with great service | Close to everything | Free parking   
• More good value: Pharos Apartment – Modern and spacious | Short walk to waterfront | Free parking on street  
• Spend a bit more: La Casa del Fico – Beautiful location by sea 10 mins from Leuca | Terrace breakfasts with views | Free parking.

We stayed in a spacious apartment with a kitchenette at Residence Bellevue, a pleasant, 10-minute walk up the hill from the waterfront. It was basic but reasonably priced and had everything we needed, including a free parking space.

Day 10: Santa Maria di Leuca

Highlights: Climb the Cascata Monumentale stairway | Sanctuary views | Coastal boat tour | Wine tasting and/or beach time
Total driving distance: appx. 60km (40 miles) depending on today’s activities
Total driving time: appx. 1.5 hours as above
Overnight: Santa Maria di Leuca

Choose your adventures today in and around Leuca. Here, the waters of the Adriatic and Ionian seas come together in front of a relaxed resort town lined with lidos, bars, restaurants and swaying palms.

This has been a seaside haven for Italians since the early 1900s and the seafront promenade, fronted with grand Art Nouveau villas, still has the touch of times passed about it.

Leuca was the first real break on our own Puglia road trip and it was the perfect spot for us to wind down – seaside, seafood, passeggiata and sunset aperitivi are the order of the day here. You’ll also find far fewer international tourists make it this far south.

That’s not to say there’s nothing to do in Leuca and surrounds. While you can certainly make today a well-deserved beach break, there are a couple of activities to choose from that we highly recommend – check them out below.

Eat and Drink Leuca

Break your fast at Martinucci Laboratory on Via Cavaliere Tommaso Fuortes at least once. While this is a chain, the science of pastry is definitely something we can get behind and this was our daily go-to.

We loved the cheap and cheerful seafood at Lupo di Mare on the water. Our favourite dinner spot though was Lido Azzurro Leuca – it looks out across the waterfront, and the tuna tartare (tartaro di tonno) was superb. We had to book ahead.

Explore Leuca and Surrounds

Local sightseeing

Head up to the 18th-century church, Santuario di Santa Maria de Finibus Terrae on the hill above town. Finibus Terrae means ‘End of the Land’ and pilgrims have been making their way to this place since ancient times.

Next door is the 47-metre-high Faro di Capo Santa Maria di Leuca, one of Italy’s most important active lighthouses. It isn’t open for visits but follow the road to the right for views over Leuca.

You can drive up the hill and park for free, but we reckon a better approach, if you’re up for it, is to tackle the 300-odd steps next to the Cascata Monumentale. This tumbling rocky waterfall feature is the final flourish of the Acquedotto Pugliese, a massive aqueduct built in the early 20th-century to improve water accessibility in Puglia.

Travel Tip: The waterfall is usually dry and sadly, we didn’t get to see it in flow. We’ve read though that the falls and floodlights are switched on for an hour at 10pm on Fridays in summer. If you get to see it, we’d love to know!

Get out on the water

The Leuca coastline is rugged, dramatic and pockmarked with caves. It makes for a fantastic boat trip which, unsurprisingly, is one of the most popular activities in Leuca.

Our own boat tour travelled first beneath the awesome high cliffs east of Leuca and then west, exploring various nooks and crannies and stopping in small coves so the brave among us could jump into the revitalising April sea.

You can book boat trips lasting anywhere from 90 minutes to all day and there are stands throughout town where tours can be organised on the spot. If you want to lock this in ahead of time though, check out these well-rated boat tours below – both can be booked online.

Sample local vino

As wine lovers, we were constantly on the lookout for wine tasting opportunities as we explored Puglia. We particularly love big reds, and the Salento region is the terroir of delicious Primitivo and Negroamara, which is thought to have been cultivated as far back as Messapian times.

We found an excellent wine tasting experience around 25 minutes’ drive north of Leuca, at the historic Castel di Salve Winery. Founded in 1885 by the Duke of Salve, the winery is still family run today.

Over the course of 90 minutes, we enjoyed an excellent tour and tastings and bought a couple of bottles to take with us. Tours and tastings are available Monday to Friday at 11am and 4pm and can be booked online. 

Hit the beach

The weather wasn’t warm enough for us to get our swimming togs on in Leuca, but if relaxing by the sea is top of your list for today, you have a range of options in and around town.

While Leuca’s seashore is more rocky, there are some sandy pockets, and a decent free stretch of sand on the port side of Lido Azzurro Leuca. There are also a number of lidos built on platforms over the rocks and water, where you can hire a sunbed during the warmer months.

Travelling west of Leuca along the coast, you’ll find some larger stretches of sandy beach. Our pick of these is Spiaggia di Pescoluse, a stunning swathe of bright sand and invitingly clear water that reminded us a bit of our beaches at home in Australia. It has both lidos and free areas, and there’s plenty of paid parking behind the beach, along with restaurants and shops. It’s a 20-minute drive from Leuca.

Day 11: Gallipoli

Highlights: Coastal drive to Gallipoli | Ionian Coast Beaches | Exploring Gallipoli Old Town
Total driving distance: appx. 60km (40 miles) along coastal route
Total driving time: appx. 90 minutes
Overnight: Gallipoli

Day 11 of our Puglia trip is a taster of the Ionian coastline as you make your way to the ancient walled city of Gallipoli.

We spent about a week hanging out in a small village near Gallipoli, and while it wasn’t warm enough (for us) to spend much time on the beach, our take on Puglia’s southwest coast is that it’s very much about the sun and sea here.

Our ultimate destination today is Gallipoli’s ancient Centro Storico. It’s compact and very walkable; an afternoon and evening here is plenty. We arrived mid-afternoon and covered off all the main sites, walked the walls, ate gelato, enjoyed sunset with aperitivi overlooking the sea and stayed for dinner.

Morning – Coastal Drive to Gallipoli

Enjoy a slow start today in Leuca before setting out and visiting some of the beaches en route to Gallipoli.

The SS274 will get you to Gallipoli in a little over half an hour. But we recommend taking the slower, more scenic coastal journey along the SP214, SP91, SP88 and SP215 instead.

With the vivid, glittering Ionian Sea to your left, you’ll skirt the coastline all the way, passing stone walls, white houses, sandy beaches, rocky coves, scrub and prickly pear. This way will take around 1 hour 20 without stopping.

Not that you’ll want to drive without stopping! There are many lovely spots to pause for pics and lots of places you can lay out your towel, have a swim, or stretch your legs.

If you didn’t get to Spiaggia di Pescoluse yesterday, you might think about stopping there today. Spiaggia di Torre San Giovanni is another pretty stretch of sand and sea further along the coast.

Just 15 minutes south of Gallipoli, you’ll find Punta Suina, a gorgeous cove of rocky shore with pockets of sand. There’s a free area – Spiaggia Libera Punta Suina, and a lido, Punta della Suina, where you can hire sunbeds and brollies during the warmer months. There’s also a bar, which was open when we visited in April. Parking is available up behind the beach; we paid a flat rate of €5.

Afternoon and Evening – Gallipoli Old Town

After checking into your Gallipoli accommodation this afternoon, make your way to the Borgo Antico (Old Town). It’s located on an island, surrounded by defensive walls raised in the Middle Ages, and linked to the mainland by a 17th-century bridge.

Like many of Puglia’s towns, Gallipoli likely started out as a Messapic settlement before becoming a part of Magna Graecia, and then a Roman colony. The city went on to be influenced by many others who came, saw and conquered (or tried to).

Explore Gallipoli

On the mainland side of the bridge leading to the Old Town, look out for the Fontana Graeca, a beautifully sculpted (if heavily eroded) Renaissance monument.

As you cross into the Old Town, the imposing medieval Castello di Gallipoli dominates the entrance. Once a vital defensive bastion, the castle now offers guided tours.

Many places in Gallipoli’s Old Town close for a few hours in the afternoon, making this a perfect time to stroll along the Lungomare Gallipoli, a scenic path following the ancient city walls. Along the way, you’ll see the city beach, Spiaggia della Purità, and a handful of bars (worth scouting for a potential sunset aperitivo later).

The island’s main avenue, Via Antonietta di Pace, takes you past notable landmarks like the 17th-century Basilica Cattedrale di Sant’Agata. The Cathedral’s ornate Baroque façade, frescoes and moody crypt are highlights (it’s closed between 1pm and 4pm).

Other churches on the island worth visiting if open include Chiesa Rettoria Santa Maria della Purità and Chiesa di San Francesco D’Assisi.

We also recommend a visit to Il Frantoio del Vicerè, one of the island’s ancient underground oil presses. Gallipoli was once Europe’s most important lamp oil producer and these historic caverns, carved straight into the bedrock, provide a fascinating insight into the harsh world of the ancient oil press. It’s open mornings and late afternoon/evening and costs just a couple of euros.

Eat and Drink Gallipoli

Watching the sun set from Gallipoli’s walls with aperitivo is a highlight. We enjoyed some local wine with snacks at a bar atop the Crocefisso Bastion – a gorgeous way to wrap up the day.

There are plenty of solid options for dinner in the Borgo Antico; keep an eye out as you wander today but if you have your heart set on a place in peak, you might want to book ahead. We followed online reviews to Le Garibaldine, a charming little alleyway restaurant with a delicious menu of local specialties and seafood – highly recommended.  

Parking in Gallipoli

There are a couple of parking lots virtually on the doorstep of the Old Town. Payment is by the hour and varies between high and low seasons – check the signs. It can get very busy, so come armed with patience.

The largest parking lot, Parcheggio Porto, is on the island itself. Take care to drive along the Lungomare Marconi to the port parking area and not along Corso Roma or you may end up driving into the ZTL. We parked in a smaller parking lot before the bridge, Parcheggio Lungomare Marconi. You can pay with card and coins at both.

Where to stay in Gallipoli

With today’s itinerary centred on Gallipoli’s Borgo Antico, staying on the island would be a lovely way to round out the day (book well ahead if travelling during peak). There’s also a good selection of hotels, B&Bs and apartments just across the bridge, within walking distance of the Old Town. Below are some well rated stays in or near to the Borgo Antico:

• Good value: Il Pozzo Antico – Cozy barrel vaulted B&B room | Clean and modern | Public parking at port
• Mid-range: I Bastioni San Domenico – Boutique hotel with rooftop terrace | Excellent breakfast | Private parking for a fee
• Spend a bit more: Palazzo del Corso Boutique Hotel – Bright, modern rooms and great staff | Short walk to Old Town | Free private parking.

Further out, you’ll find gorgeous country hotels like Tenuta Negroamaro, while vacation homes and apartments dot the villages along the coast.

We went with the latter, staying in a unit at Salento Appartamento Stella – a cozy apartment with a kitchenette and private parking in the very quiet, very local Marina di Mancaversa, a 20-minute drive from Gallipoli. It was great for our longer stay, but for a short visit we’d personally opt to be closer to the Old Town.

Day 12: Matera via Taranto

Highlights: Taranto’s MArTA Museum | Matera Walking Tour | Sunset aperitivo overlooking the Sassi
Total driving distance: appx. 180km (112 miles)
Total driving time: appx. 2 hours 45 minutes
Overnight: Matera

At this point in our itinerary for Puglia, you could absolutely continue your stay in the Gallipoli region and spend an extra day or two on the beaches, wandering the Old Town, or exploring the coast to the north before heading back to Bari.

In our opinion though, it would be a tragedy to travel so close to one of the world’s oldest and most fascinating cities and not visit.  

We’re talking about Matera. Which isn’t technically in Puglia, but it’s just a stone’s throw over the border in the neighbouring region of Basilicata.

Two days is the minimum we would suggest for Matera. Of course, you can absolutely whizz through on a day trip, but you’ll 100 per cent wish you had longer to explore.

If you’re travelling in the cooler months, make sure you’ve packed your winter woollies as it can get really cold here, occasionally even snowing.

Aim to start early today. The drive from Gallipoli to Matera is the single longest stretch you’ll drive on this Puglia road trip itinerary. If you travel via the SS7, passing through Taranto, it will take around 2 hours 45 without traffic.

Morning – Taranto (optional)

Fronting up to the grungy streets and crumbling buildings of Taranto’s Città Vecchia (Old Town), it can be hard to imagine this was once a prized port city, invaded time and again by covetous neighbours and empire builders.

Though it flourished at times, Taranto’s more recent history hasn’t fared so well, ensuring it doesn’t tend to make it onto many Puglia itineraries.

We decided to visit and while it wasn’t quite love at first sight, we were intrigued by the moody, enduring Old Town. We also arrived during the Feast Day of Saint Cataldo (early May) and watched a large procession of locals, pilgrims and religious folk solemnly ferry a statue of their patron saint from Cattedrale San Cataldo (Taranto Cathedral) along the city walls, followed by fireworks.

What lured us to Taranto, however, was the MArTA Museo Archaeologico Nazionale di Taranto, possibly Puglia’s best archaeological museum – certainly our favourite in the region.

Taranto isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, but if you’re curious, you could stop here en route from Gallipoli to Matera for a coffee, a brief wander through the Old Town, and/or a visit to the museum.

There’s paid street parking near the museum and a couple of parking lots (we found a paid space in Parcheggio Piazza Kennedy). As with everywhere, carry your valuables with you and make sure your luggage in the car is tucked away out of sight. 

Rest of Day and Evening – Matera

We’ll never forget our first sight of ancient Matera rising and falling along the flanks of a deep ravine. We reckon you won’t either. 

First up though, be prepared and know where you will be parking before you arrive. This is especially important if you’re staying within the historic districts called the Sassi. We recommend confirming your parking options in advance with your accommodation and heading straight there. If you can check in early or drop off your bags, do that.

Matera is a troglodyte settlement – a city of cave dwellings. More than a thousand caves honeycomb the walls of Matera’s ravine. They’ve provided a natural shelter for people since Paleolithic times.

As local populations grew, more people moved into the caves and started burrowing deeper, over time carving out a complex warren of underground living spaces. By the early 1900s though, the Sassi were slums, forgotten by the Government, the people living in abject poverty without running water or electricity. When this reality came to light, it was called the ‘Shame of Italy’ but it was a turning point. Today, Matera is a World Heritage site.

The two districts in the Sassi are Sasso Barisano and Sasso Caveoso. Many of the cave dwellings, particularly in the area of Sasso Barisano, have been reclaimed from decay and restored into homes, shops, hotels, restaurants, bars, galleries and museums. It makes for an entirely unique city experience.

Explore Matera

The evolution, decline and revival of Matera’s Sassi is an extraordinary story and as such, we highly recommend that one of the first things you do in Matera is join a walking tour. This will also get you oriented so you can return tomorrow and explore the Sassi further at your own pace.

The two walking tours below, one a group tour and the other a private tour (which includes entry to one of the cave house museums and a Rupestrian church) both visit the Sassi and get excellent reviews.

Your launchpad to the Sassi is Piazza Vittorio Veneto, a long, stone-paved plaza. There’s a tourist info centre where you can pick up a map.

There’s also a small, inconspicuous viewpoint here, the Belvedere Luigi Guerricchio detto dei ‘Tre Archi’. Head here for your first magical views over the Sassi.

If you can’t get onto a walking tour this afternoon, we suggest making your own way into Sasso Barisano and visiting Casa Noha, where you can watch a fascinating 30-minute film on the city’s history in a 16th-century family home. You can buy tickets for Casa Noha in advance online.

One of the highlights of our time in Matera was sunset aperitivo overlooking the Sassi. It’s a must at least once, so as the sun starts to drop, find yourself a perch in one of the city’s bars or restaurants, preferably one with an outdoor terrace, and soak up the ancient atmosphere.

Eat and Drink Matera

In the north-east corner of Piazza Vittorio Veneto is Via San Biagio, where you’ll find some great eateries. Our pick: the ridiculously good ‘padellino‘ (a kind of deep dish pizza) and craft beers at Il Rusticone.

Two of our fave spots for a sunset drink were out the back of Terrazza Cavaliere and the groovy rock cut terrace at Zipa Café.

Beer fans, we recommend a craft beer or two in the courtyard at Birrificio 79 (we nabbed a table but you may need to reserve).

Where to stay in Matera

Matera is well geared to the tourist market and you’ll find many accommodation options both in the Sassi and the new town. The following stays get consistently good reviews:

• Good value: Vicolo Fiore Affittacamere II – Short walk to old town | Clean modern rooms | Street and paid parking options nearby
• Mid-Range: Il Belvedere – Clean spacious rooms | Terrace overlooking the Sassi | Street and paid parking options nearby
• Spend a bit more: Palazzo Gattini Luxury Hotel – Beautiful spacious rooms and on-site spa | Located in the Sassi | Paid parking at sister hotel with transfer.

For many, staying in a cave house within the Sassi is a highlight of a visit to this ancient city. We haven’t done this and we’ve read mixed reviews about some cave stays so if you’re keen, it’s worth researching your options thoroughly.  

We stayed in a room just a short walk from the Old Town and Sassi. While it was adequate for our stay and the location was great, we feel there are better options available.

Day 13: Matera

Highlights: Exploring the Sassi | Cave Churches and Houses | Sunset at Belvedere Murgi Timone
Total driving distance: 12km (8 miles) round trip to Parco della Murgia Materana
Total driving time: 20 minutes
Overnight: Matera

Today is all about exploring Matera’s World Heritage Sassi districts. If you’re yet to do a walking tour, perhaps line one up for first thing this morning (see Day 12 for our suggestions).

Otherwise, we reckon the best way to explore is – as always – to plunge right in and follow the labyrinthine lanes and winding staircases at whim. Just be prepared for uneven, stone-paved paths and stairways, and take care, especially in wet weather when these paths can become slippery.

Explore Matera

Cave Churches

As you wander, keep an eye out for Matera’s Rupestrian churches – these medieval cave churches are an important part of the World Heritage site and there are more than 160 peppering the Sassi. Some are decorated with vibrant frescoes and some charge an entry fee.

Our pick of these are Chiesa Rupestre di Santa Maria di Idris and Chiesa di Santa Lucia alle Malve (there’s a combined entry ticket for these two). Another fascinating church is Chiesa San Pietro Barisano, with its grim subterranean ‘draining’ rooms – worth a visit to find out more!

Cave Houses

Several cave houses in the Sassi have been restored and set up as museums to show life as it might have once been for the poor labourers living here before the Sassi were cleared in the 1950s. They all charge an entry fee and are similar enough that you need only visit one.

Other sites

Don’t miss the imposing, 13th-century Cattedrale di Maria Santissima della Bruna e Sant’Eustachio (Matera Cathedral); the MUSMA museum, dedicated to modern sculpture and the world’s only cave museum; and the Palombaro Lungo, a beautiful, cavernous display of historic hydraulic engineering beneath Piazza Vittorio Veneto.  

View points

There are many bars and restaurants with epic views over Matera’s Sassi, but there are also lots of magical viewpoints that cost only the effort to find them.

Mark these on your map before you set out: Belvedere Luigi Guerricchio detto dei ‘Tre Archi’, Belvedere Piazzetta Pascoli, Piazza San Pietro Caveoso, the terrace above Chiesa di San Pietro Barisano (follow Via Santa Cesaria), and the terrace out front of the Convento di Sant’Agostino (a Bond scene and one of our favourite views).

Late afternoon – Belvedere Murgi Timone

If you’re up for a short drive and a walk this afternoon, then we highly recommend setting aside an hour or two near sunset for a trip to Belvedere Murgi Timone in the Parco della Murgia Materana on the opposite side of the ravine.

The panoramic views from the Belvedere towards Matera are superb, especially as the sun sets behind the Sassi.

Below the belvedere, you’ll also find walking trails passing some of the historic caves on this side of the ravine; a couple have information signs.

There’s parking at the Belvedere itself, however this is for authorised vehicles only. We missed the sign on the way in and were told off by park rangers. Unless you have authorisation, or a disability permit, you’ll need to park at the Centro Visite Jazzo Gattini parking lot and walk around 1.5km (20 minutes) to the lookout.

Day 14: Depart Bari

Highlights: Crypt of Original Sin | Gravina in Puglia
Total driving distance: appx. 60km (40 miles) from Matera to Bari direct
Total driving time: Around 45 minutes to an hour as above

It’s the final day of our two week Puglia road trip itinerary!

Bari Airport is around 45 minutes to an hour by car from Matera, so give yourself plenty of time to return to the airport, drop off your hire car and check in for your flight.

If your flight departs later today or tonight, you could spend the morning enjoying a last espresso in the Sassi. Alternatively, you might consider a morning visit to one of these spots not far from Matera:

Cripta del Peccato Originale

The Crypt of Original Sin is an extraordinary cave located around 15km and 20 minutes’ drive to the southwest of Matera. It was a Benedictine church cave during the 8th and 9th-centuries and is nicknamed the ‘Sistine Chapel of Rupestrian Churches’ for its cycle of beautifully preserved wall frescoes depicting apostles, archangels and scenes from the Garden of Eden.

You can only visit on a pre-booked guided tour (you can also book at the MUSMA in Matera – the ticket gives entry to both). The cave is small, the tour is brief (and the Sistine comparison might be stretching it) but this was still a surprise highlight for us. 

Gravina in Puglia

One for the James Bond fans! This small town is around 30km and 30 minutes’ drive north of Matera, a slight detour off the road to Bari.

With more time, you could spend a day here exploring, but with just a couple of hours, your best bet is to park up (we found paid street parking just outside the ZTL), and make your way through the Centro Storico to the Ponte Acquedotto, the arched bridge made famous in ‘No Time To Die’.

Time to make your way back to Bari Airport. Ciao Puglia!

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Let us know below if you have any questions, thoughts or feedback on our self-drive itinerary for Puglia!

For more Italian road trips and adventures, head to our Italy section.

If you’re looking for more great road tripping itineraries and adventures, check out our Bucket List of 100 Ultimate Road Trips Around the World and our 21 Epic Adventures Around the World.